Modphase

I have an '02 v6 Bird and I'm looking to upgrade the suspension soon. For shocks I'll probably go for Bilsteins or something similar, but when it comes to what springs to get, I'm lost. I've ran into this whole "linear vs progressive" springs rabbit hole, and after doing an internet search I still can't find a good answer on what is better for my needs. The Bird is my daily, so as much as I'd like it to handle as good as possible, I realize I also need to preserve a modicum of comfort. I'm not looking for some racetrack-stiff suspension that's going to dislocate my vertebrae. I also do not want it to be lowered. So based on this, what's the best option; linear or progressive-rate springs? And please, give me your product recommendations if you can, for both shocks and springs. I'm looking to spend max about $900 for everything, but I don't need anything super nifty, so more affordable is always better. After all, anything would probably be better than the sagging old shocks and coils its riding on now.

jond99

iTrader: (1)

If you don’t want to lower the ride height you might just want to replace the shocks. I have had great luck with bilsteins. They are a huge upgrade over the stock decarbon shocks.

Modphase

I appreciate the recommendation. But surely, there has to be some coils that won't lower it? I suppose that even if it lowers it an inch or so I'd be okay with that, after all, I don't think the current springs it's riding on have ever been changed.

jond99

iTrader: (1)

If you go with upgrading your springs, most of us use Strano lowering springs, from Sam Strano. http://www.stranoparts.com They don’t lower the car too much and they perform excellent.

LSX Thunder

I'm new here but been all over my 98 Z/28 since 2001. As you state your priorities, the best I can offer you is four Koni adjustable's, OEM springs. Start with the shocks at the soft setting they are shipped with. See how you like them. IF you decide to adjust them, know you will only be changing the rebound. The compression is fixed (rides nice). As you adjust them, the rebound gets progressively stiffer. The stiffer you make the rears, the less brake dive you'll get. Stiffer fronts, less acceleration squat. A little stiffer F+R, the flatter you'll corner. Your OEM springs should be fine until you get crazy. 1LE OEM springs are only a little stiffer. Bigger sway bars directly reduce the body roll. Bang for the buck, the Strano 35mm front sway bar does the most for less $. The V6 has the best weight distribution of all F bodies. I agree lowering it would be a mistake.

Modphase

Cool, I wasn't even aware of this brand and it looks like they have a lot of affordable stuff for our cars. Are you talking specifically about the SP141s? http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=113&ModelID=7 The Camaro in the picture looks like it had quite a bit of rake. Then again idk what its size wheels are, mine are 16s.

Modphase

Awesome, I didn't even consider replacing my sway bar, but now I might. I appreciate your input!

LSX Thunder

[QUOTE=Modphase;20500900]Cool, I wasn't even aware of this brand and it looks like they have a lot of affordable stuff for our cars

By all means, talk with Sam Strano. He has been winning everything in sight in F body Showroom Stock racing for longer than believable. On 16X8" OEM wheels.
He can explain why you need to reinforce the attachment points of that 35 mm sway bar and a zillion other things. Why no one needs to turn their F body into a full frame, roll bar wonder that weighs too much, even while admitting the OEM cars can go God awful fast while bending themselves into pretzels. Can you say "ACCORDIAN"? (There is virtually nothing in the middle of an F body).
I'll post some photos of mine if I ever learn how.
PS
Your V6 can NOT use V8 springs without screwing up the glorious OEM balance. Here's a MOVIE from GM from before the flood (NOAH) that explains a lot. Hokey music and all. All the principles are still valid for your car.

Modphase

[QUOTE=LSX Thunder;20500903]While we're on the subject of accordions, I may as well admit now that my car is also a convertible, so idk if that changes things. I think I've seen that video before, I love all of those old car learning videos, most of the stuff they talk about is still valid today. Can I use V8 shocks on my car?

LSX Thunder

[QUOTE=Modphase;20500904]FYI
A lot of people have been killed/maimed in convertible F bodies in crashes they would have escaped unharmed from in most other cars. This is a fact. Caused by the unibody having very little structural integrity between the front and rear sub frames. Just like most Mustangs, old Nova's and Falcons and some others. This is one reason sub frame connectors started to be made in the 60's. And roll bars. While not a panacea, they can be made functional if you ignore the advice to just bolt them in and also weld them in. Obviously, the most rigid ones (massive) work the best. Yes, they make the car heavier but with a tunnel brace to tie them together like a HD driveshaft loop, they can also help the car to handle and brake better and have NO negative effect on the ride. To make a roll bar worth the effort it has to be welded to something strong enough (some frame connectors) so that in a roll over it doesn't just punch through the floor. That roll bar properly installed can also make the car handle/brake better by helping to create a platform that doesn't flex for the suspension. Welcome to complex systems.

Can I use V8 shocks on my car?
Yes

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

I'm convinced the reason my T Tops don't leak is because I did SFC's when the car was only a year old. I think they were the first mod I did.

LSX Thunder

[QUOTE=wannafbody;20500907]I'm convinced the reason my T Tops don't leak is because I did SFC's when the car was only a year old. /QUOTE]

No doubt about it.

jond99

iTrader: (1)

Sub Frame Connectors were first suspension mod I did as well. Highly recommend.

LSX Thunder

Homemade full frame, roll bar welded to both this and the body. Pick a jacking point and it picks up three tires, doors open + close with no binding while it's in the air.

LSX Thunder

This is the Butterfly braces welded onto the Australian Caprice Royale and up front the K frame brace across the front sub frame
When installing the aluminum driveshaft only had to remove four bolts from the loop and drop the exhaust. Three hour job.

LSX Thunder

The SS emblem is from a 1968 Camaro SS and later she got the LSX fender badges

LSX Thunder

Those Stranoparts springs are NOT for your car because:
#1 those are for a V8
#2 your convertible will suffer greatly from his front spring rate and twist up too soon
#3 your goal you wrote is " The Bird is my daily, so as much as I'd like it to handle as good as possible, I realize I also need to preserve a modicum of comfort. I'm not looking for some racetrack-stiff suspension that's going to dislocate my vertebrae. I also do not want it to be lowered." You were describing why the Stranoparts springs are not for you.
#4 those springs in a V6 convertible is a weight distribution mismatch

LSX Thunder

Pontiac gave the definitive answer to your questions. They were playing with a 64 Tempest race car and a 67 Firebird race car in house and made up a bunch of different rate springs, very different sway bars and shocks. Concluded that the hot set up was softer springs than FE 1's, much more rebound in the F+R shocks with less compression than oem, very large solid front sway bar, slightly larger rear sway bar.
In 2023 that translates to V6 FE 1 springs F+R, Koni shocks and a Strano 35/22 set or even a 24mm solid rear sway bar if like little power on oversteer, or a 21mm rear to maintain a little understeer.

Modphase

I appreciate your in-depth responses. Apologies, but what are FE 1 Springs? And would the base-level non-adjustable Konis do? Let's say I only have enough money right now for either a front OR rear sway bar, which one should I get?

Modphase

Are the bolt-in subframe connectors worth it?