DownSouthWS6

iTrader: (1)

At speeds above 50-60ish if I get on the brakes and try to move the wheel it starts shaking pretty bad. It mostly only happens when I'm fartin around on windy roads so it's never really been a big deal but I'm takin to car to the mountains in a few weeks so I figured I should look into it.. What should I start dumping money on to replace with aftermarket parts to get this fixed?

JoshuaCole67

iTrader: (19)

I had that problem and had to buy new rotors.. Mine were warped... Look at those

ICRAZY6

iTrader: (68)

what condition are the tires in? My DD does the same thing, the tires are choppy from not being rotated. I'm replacing them later on this fall. Just something to check on .

u118224

iTrader: (3)

Just to clarify, does the steering wheel shake only when braking, or does it shake when you're turning without braking? I too think it's probably warped front rotors. How many miles on the car?

Choppers

iTrader: (60)

I vote warped rotors. Don't buy autozone cheap ones or you'll be in the same boat. I have found when buying rotors you get what you paid for. I really like my ws6store rotors.

dermot

My Firebird did this when I got it, it varied and sometimes almost disappeared, when I looked (after a week of driving it around) both front disks were cracked right across on the inner surface only!!! (how the &^^% that would happen I don't know, the disks looked good otherwise).

Seems that as they changed shape, the pulsing varied! Scary.

Check disks first would be my view!

kr D.

93sspcoupe

its warped rotors.

DownSouthWS6

iTrader: (1)

front tires only have maybe 3500 miles on them, rears only have like 400.

It only does it when I'm turning AND braking and only at speeds above 50, which is why I thought it wasn't warped rotors cause from what I've always been told and experienced, warped rotors will cause shaking even with lower speed, straight line braking. I took the car to the track in April and even slammin on the brakes from 85 there was no noticeable shake at all.

JD_AMG

Could still possibly be warped rotors. My stockers warped and wouldn't vibrate the steering wheel until about ~40mph, they also wouldn't vibrate when I slammed on them hard. Got new rotors and problem solved (get some decent pads while you are at it).

DownSouthWS6

iTrader: (1)

Well I guess I'll go ahead and get a new rotors. I can get a set of drilled OR slotted brembos for $105, or the WS6store drilled and slotted for I think $99. Which should I go with?

On a side note, I've got a BMR torque arm bar that I'm gonna put on before I head up to the mountains, and I'm thinkin about adding something else to help the car handle a little better since I'm on OE springs/shocks and stock ride height. I'm thinkin about doin a BMR panhard bar and shock tower brace. Any opinions on that?

JD_AMG

It certainly wont hurt, the stock rotors suck (as well as the stock brake pads, I would definitely replace them with some kind of performance pads while youve got everything apart)
http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...CategoryID=191
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=17&ModelID=7
Ive done both a PHB and a strut tower brace and neither did anything for me in handling. An adjustable PHB would still be a good idea simply to align the rear end (if its off center) but don't expect any handling gains.
Truly the best thing you can do is get some good shocks.

peterlawl84

iTrader: (12)

I had the same issue, only had the steering wheel shake when brake from like 60-50 then it would be fine after that. My problem was the weights on the wheels flew off, might check to see if you have any adhesive stuff on with no weights.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Warped rotors, pins that may be stuck, alignment problem potential...

DownSouthWS6

iTrader: (1)

Alright well I'm just gonna go ahead and replace the rotors and pads up front. If yall had to choose between these which would you go with?
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=1526

or

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=1224

Are the Brembos worth the extra $100? And what's the differnece between drilled and slotted as far as a performance stand point?

Racin'Z28

iTrader: (7)

Warped rotors for sure. Brembo or other aftermarket rotors are good if you do autocrossing or road racing, but decent plain ones are good enough for daily driving. Pads will make a bigger difference than rotors. Drilled and slotted look cool, but no real performance advantage for drilled, just prone to cracking. I would go with a decent plain rotor, some good quality pads, and I would also change the fluid while your at it. Just the plain rotors and good pads will make a huge difference. The ones above for $100 a pair are good, but I would be avoiding drilled if possible. Slotted is okay.

Edit: for clarity, I run Brembo and Powerslot rotors, all plain, Brakemotive pads, I Autocross all the time, and it's actually kinda freaky how fast my car stops.

Vexzer

iTrader: (1)

I agree. All you really need to do is turn the rotors you have.

But no one mentions that even brand new rotors should be turned! That is just plain old brake shop "Best Practices".

DownSouthWS6

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, I might just go with the slotted cause they look kinda cool and get a good set of pads. I didn't even think about drilled ones having problems with cracking but I guess that would make sense. You runnin stock calipers?

Rotors are pretty old and the car used to be up north so they're fairly rusty so I'm just gonna replace them. And do new rotors really need to be turned?Aren't they turned when they're made?

Vexzer

iTrader: (1)

Yes, new rotors really need to be turned if you run a professional auto repair shop and want no comebacks. For DIY's who have unlimited time to redo their own work -maybe not as important.

If the rotors you buy have machining marks on the surfaces then maybe they've been turned -hopefully AFTER they were heated. You can bet the cheap [but still good] rotors have not been turned. If you don't want to turn them before using, check runout with your dial indicator or just mount them and drive. If pulsations in pedal or steering wheel return at least you'll know that that's the next thing to check. Good Luck!

Racin'Z28

iTrader: (7)

Yep, stock calipers. I use Russell Steel lines too, but that's just a bonus since I autocross the car. The stock calipers in front are actually pretty good. They will develop some spread over time since they are cast not as well as the C5 calipers, (which are exactly the same size except made a little better to last a little longer) I've not replaced my stock calipers. Overall, our brakes are actually quite good with good rotors and pads, good fluid, and in good condition. It doesn't take a lot to make them work great.

I won't outright disagree with turning new ones, but I've never done that and had no problem. Any good quality new rotor should have nicely machined and finished surfaces on them. You should be able to see some crosshatching sort of marks where they finished the rotor. It should not be shiny, but actually look like it's scratched up in a machined sort of way, if that makes sense at all. Its hard to describe, other than it should be uniformly, well, crosshatched. As I said, I've never had to turn any new rotors, but the OP may have had a difference experience.

Racin'Z28

iTrader: (7)

Exactly what I was trying to describe in my other post. Vexzer is right in that they should have the machining marks that I tried to describe, and hopefully after heated. Good luck.