HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Well, I got my new C5 DD wheels with some Toyo 315 drag radials mounted last Thursday. That night, I took it out for a test. I did some dig launches on a dead street, only trying like 2.5k-3k rpm launch.. The next day driving around I notice a lot of loud clunking when I hit a bump. I thought my wheels/tires were hitting the bumpstops.. So I install some ARP wheel studs and 5/16" spacers (which I planned to do, anyhow).. I take it for another drive, and still a ton of loud clunking..

So today I look up under the car with the plan to tighten every bolt in the rear suspension that I see. and I find a busted torque arm... I never had these clunks until the first night with my 315's, so I guess it was it's time to go. I guess it's my time to go ahead and get a UMI tubular torque arm. Should I get an adjustable or not?

Pics:





Oh, and before anyone says it. I plan to have the rear-end rebuilt with a new pinion seal this year

T AM

iTrader: (5)

I've got the same problem.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

I think you should quick add another disclaimer about putting money into a 10 bolt, because you're going to get attacked for even bothering since you'll be running running 315 dr's with a nice torque arm lol

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Haha no kidding. It'll just have a seal/bearing rebuild kit. It won't see the track, and the 10bolt will be babied until I get some cash flow for a 9"

Also I think I'll do a stock length torque arm with the relocation bracket, any opposers?

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

That's pretty nasty looking!

A new UMI torque arm will take care of that As for the rear end, if you take it easy it shouldl survive for awhile. The wheel hop is one thing that kills them, try not to launch where the car will hop, if you feel it start to grab the clutch as quick as possible. Now of course wheel hop isn't the only cause and over powering it can destroy it as well.

If you have any questions please ask. Thanks!

Ryan

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

I'm trying to decide on tunnel mount or stock length with relocation bracket now. I'm back and forth on it!!

Shockwave179

iTrader: (7)

Depends on what you like doing with the car. If you like going around corners a stock style adjustable/non-adjustable is probably better.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

I mean it's no autocross car, but I love carving a good corner on the backroads.. So how does a tunnel mount reduce that?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

If your only "carving corners" around a hairpin turn on backroads but you like to put power down on launches, just get a damn short arm. Your not going to be doing any serious braking on the street.. so brake hop shouldn't be an issue. I'm assuming you like to drag your car with the 315 drag radials. Know your priorities.. I'm going to guess that putting that power down on a launch is more important to you than fixing brake hop when you mess around on the street where your not actually competiting with anyone else. Plus you'll be getting all that shock off your transmission.. do a search on cases where people bust their transmission tail shaft is it called??? You can do that with a relocation kit with the long arm as well.. but if you ask me the short arm is just a better choice for you.

I'm pretty sure from what I've read (and I'm not positive), that a short arm is actually better for powering out of corners too. It's just the brake issues that makes it not worth it for autox or road racing.

Anyone feel free to correct me

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

you're dead on man, I have a tmtqarm and the only time I get "brake hop/noise" is on washboards on 1 street if I brake very hard.

on the other hand, I have road raced mine and I drive hard on the street. I have a badass brake setup and have NO brake hop any where else. Road racing, it performed flawlessly. On the street its great. That is the one part that got rid of my wheel hop. I've done some hard burnouts on the strip and had not a hint of wheel hop which is where I used to get it.

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

it's time to step it up.. and i would buy another adj torque arm if i had to..

6spdchevy

iTrader: (2)

sorry to thread hijack but who supplies short arm? like is it called short arm?

thanks

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I just bought a umi full length t/a with the relocation crossmember. After talking to Strano that's what he suggested. My car is a street car and I like to turn. You can adjust the instant center to help traction. He said if you use a tunnel mount three point sfc's r a must.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Z28Bryan supplied very good information and basically what I would have said.

For short tunnel mounted torque arms UMI offers them and I posted a link below to all our torque arm set ups. We offer four short styles and the difference is what exhaust systems they are made for and whether you want a built in drive shaft loop. If you have any questions please ask and I will be glad to help.

UMI Torque Arms

Thanks!
Ryan

OIF1VET

iTrader: (54)

I have a spohn adj chassis mount TA, I don't use 3 point SFC's and have never had any issues..

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

neither have I... car handles great and hooks better than it ever has before.

SuperSport01

Get a full length TA with a relocated TA mount to the trans crossmember. UMI and BMR have them.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

It's official, I'm going with stock length and relocation bracket. It sounds like the better setup for what I want, and less worries of exhaust clearances, which I highly think I will have exhaust clearance issues! I'll be ordering from UMI next week

Now, I see the relocation brackets have different adjustment points on it to mount the TA mount to it.. Will it come with instructions on where to mount it for pinion angle. Because, with an adjustable TA, and the relocation bracket, it looks like there will be two ways to adjust the pinion angle, who has experience with both these two and their experiences on the best way to adjust?

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Good choice, you will be never pleased with the performance of this set up. The adjustment holes in the crossmember/relocation kit are for instant center change, they will effect pinion angle slightly but are designed to change the instant center point of the car. When installing for the first time set the torque arm on the second hole from the top, once the arm is installed then set pinion angle. Also a note, anytime you change the instant center point make sure the two bolts at the rear of the torque arm are loose so the arm pivots. Also when changing instant center you will want to check and possibly readjust pinion angle.

The best thing to do is once you get the items in your hands give us a call or e-mail and we can explain it a little better. It makes a lot more sense when you actually have the items in your hands.

If you need any help ordering or have any additional questions please ask.

Thank you, we appreciate the business and support
Ryan

LS-1Z28

iTrader: (6)

same thing happened to me yesterday on stock tires lol

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...mage-pics.html