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Best rotors/pads for F-body
#1
Best rotors/pads for F-body
I found out all my rotors are cracked from heat.
I need 4 new ones and pads.
I am stuck between going with a cheap summit cross drilled and slotted rotor and Hawk HP pads, or going with all EBC rotor/pad combo or a power slot rotor and Hawk HP pad or EBC pad.
I am also throwing around the idea of just replacing the stockers with EBC's replacement rotors which are a 1/2 the price and then going with a good EBC pad or Hawk pad.
What do you guys think? I cross posted this in the brake section also, just figured it would get more traffic here.
I need 4 new ones and pads.
I am stuck between going with a cheap summit cross drilled and slotted rotor and Hawk HP pads, or going with all EBC rotor/pad combo or a power slot rotor and Hawk HP pad or EBC pad.
I am also throwing around the idea of just replacing the stockers with EBC's replacement rotors which are a 1/2 the price and then going with a good EBC pad or Hawk pad.
What do you guys think? I cross posted this in the brake section also, just figured it would get more traffic here.
#3
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I went with a set of ebay rotors after researching a little. Ask/search around here and other LS sites about R1 Concepts. They put out a good product for a good price and their rotors are non directional so you can mount them however you like, I installed mine a few months back and am very satisfied with the performance. These are on my DD Trans Am, for pads I went with Duralast ceramic golds because I've always used these without issue. The rotors I got as a full set for about $120 shipped, there was a sale going at the time so I jumped on it,(pretty much free shipping). I went with slotted rotors since I DD the car and really like the simple look. Here's a few pics dring install. But if you are really stuck between the Sumits/EBC's/Powerslots, I would get the Powerslots-Hawks combo. When I was shopping around I found this combo had great reviews, hopefully some road race dude will chime in, they seem to have the best input on this type question.
#6
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Try Brakemotive rotors with Hawk HPS pads...I have had this set up on my car for about 6 months and it is great. I also had the rotors on my old 98 with bendix pads and it was almost as good just the Hawk pads are far superior to bendix. Brakemotive was running a special awhile back for 160.00 for all four rotors and front and rear pads. thats what I did.......
#7
I got one of the cross drill and sloted rotor kits and now I've really got to let the brakes cool down between runs. I'm about ready to replace the front rotors with what this person recommended to you from the NAPA store. I believe replacing my fronts and leaving the cross drilled/slotted ones on the back is the way to go. Now if your just going to daily drive your car then the slot kits the way to go. But if your going to run at the track you might want to think about it.
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#8
Thanks for the responses so far guys, I posted this in the brake section and it seems that everyone has a set opinion that drilled rotors really don't do anything except boost looks. I am leaning towards the EBC stock replacements and Hawk HP pads. Cheapest and seems to be the most tried and true combo that works.
Although I still have my mind open on slotted rotors if I can find something that says slotted rotors will help.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...rotors-all-4-/
What do you guys think about these?
Although I still have my mind open on slotted rotors if I can find something that says slotted rotors will help.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...rotors-all-4-/
What do you guys think about these?
#9
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...ices-ever.html
i just got these for 165.00 shipped to my door. hers some pics of the rears on the car.
i just got these for 165.00 shipped to my door. hers some pics of the rears on the car.
#11
Nice, that's a good deal for all 4. I don't think 199.99 for the black ones I posted is bad either. I think I am going to order them tomorrow, and try to have them here Tuesday so I can get them on for F-body Beach Bash Thursday!
Do any of you guys run a 15" wheel and have clearanced your brakes before? My car supposedly has had 15" wheels on it before and the fronts have been clearanced already.
The wheels I bought supposedly fit the front with no mods, but the rears I have no clue. Any thoughts? They are summit drag thrusts and the guy I bought them from said they were correct bs to run without mods. I don't know if that's even possible with a 12" rotor, but I guess we will see tomorrow when we try to put them on.
Do any of you guys run a 15" wheel and have clearanced your brakes before? My car supposedly has had 15" wheels on it before and the fronts have been clearanced already.
The wheels I bought supposedly fit the front with no mods, but the rears I have no clue. Any thoughts? They are summit drag thrusts and the guy I bought them from said they were correct bs to run without mods. I don't know if that's even possible with a 12" rotor, but I guess we will see tomorrow when we try to put them on.
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...ices-ever.html
i just got these for 165.00 shipped to my door. hers some pics of the rears on the car.
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...SS/photo16.jpg
i just got these for 165.00 shipped to my door. hers some pics of the rears on the car.
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...SS/photo16.jpg
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well you can tell if the rears were clearenced already if they had weld pro stars/draglites on the car before. or look at the fronts of the rear calipers see if they have been filed down. billet specialties street lights fit no grinding and weld rts is supposed to fit no grinding. hope that helps some.
#17
well you can tell if the rears were clearenced already if they had weld pro stars/draglites on the car before. or look at the fronts of the rear calipers see if they have been filed down. billet specialties street lights fit no grinding and weld rts is supposed to fit no grinding. hope that helps some.
So I can't check myself, but I will tomorrow.
Hell I haven't seen the car personally in over month now, I've been waiting on this damn transmission to be built. Finally got it back today, and found out yesterday all my rotors were cracked.
#18
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I've been doing a lot of research on this, and what I've found is the the best performance seems to come with blank rotors with a quality pad.
Anything slotted and/or drilled is basically just for looks.
Slots wear the pads a little quicker, and drilled rotors have a very good chance of cracking with hard use.
I actually found a brake mfg. that says right on thier website (I think it was brembo) that they do not recommend slotted/drilled for track use.
I ran a pair of Summit slotted/drilled rotors on the front my Jeep for a few years, and while they did not crack, they didn't make any difference in stopping feel over the OEM style rotors. Also, th Performance Friction pads I was running ate the hell out of the rotors, they wore them down almost to the bottom of the slots, and left a big lip around the outer edge of the rotor. In fact I failed the state vehicle inspection because of them, even though there was plenty of meat left on the pads, the PITA failed it for the rotors. Plus the rotors looked horrible, the slots looked like rusty grooves across the rotor face.
I replaced them with autozone blanks and pads, stopping power was greatly improved.
That said, I plan on going with the Brakemotive deal, and am pretty sure I'm going with blanks. I looked around, and I can't beat that deal anywhere else, even if I go with the 25 dollar clearance Brembo front blanks from summit. Adding rear rotors and pads still bring the price higher than 165.
Honestly I can't imagine how brakemotive is able to offer that deal, PLUS free shipping, and make any money.
Anything slotted and/or drilled is basically just for looks.
Slots wear the pads a little quicker, and drilled rotors have a very good chance of cracking with hard use.
I actually found a brake mfg. that says right on thier website (I think it was brembo) that they do not recommend slotted/drilled for track use.
I ran a pair of Summit slotted/drilled rotors on the front my Jeep for a few years, and while they did not crack, they didn't make any difference in stopping feel over the OEM style rotors. Also, th Performance Friction pads I was running ate the hell out of the rotors, they wore them down almost to the bottom of the slots, and left a big lip around the outer edge of the rotor. In fact I failed the state vehicle inspection because of them, even though there was plenty of meat left on the pads, the PITA failed it for the rotors. Plus the rotors looked horrible, the slots looked like rusty grooves across the rotor face.
I replaced them with autozone blanks and pads, stopping power was greatly improved.
That said, I plan on going with the Brakemotive deal, and am pretty sure I'm going with blanks. I looked around, and I can't beat that deal anywhere else, even if I go with the 25 dollar clearance Brembo front blanks from summit. Adding rear rotors and pads still bring the price higher than 165.
Honestly I can't imagine how brakemotive is able to offer that deal, PLUS free shipping, and make any money.
#19
I've been doing a lot of research on this, and what I've found is the the best performance seems to come with blank rotors with a quality pad.
Anything slotted and/or drilled is basically just for looks.
Slots wear the pads a little quicker, and drilled rotors have a very good chance of cracking with hard use.
I actually found a brake mfg. that says right on thier website (I think it was brembo) that they do not recommend slotted/drilled for track use.
I ran a pair of Summit slotted/drilled rotors on the front my Jeep for a few years, and while they did not crack, they didn't make any difference in stopping feel over the OEM style rotors. Also, th Performance Friction pads I was running ate the hell out of the rotors, they wore them down almost to the bottom of the slots, and left a big lip around the outer edge of the rotor. In fact I failed the state vehicle inspection because of them, even though there was plenty of meat left on the pads, the PITA failed it for the rotors. Plus the rotors looked horrible, the slots looked like rusty grooves across the rotor face.
I replaced them with autozone blanks and pads, stopping power was greatly improved.
That said, I plan on going with the Brakemotive deal, and am pretty sure I'm going with blanks. I looked around, and I can't beat that deal anywhere else, even if I go with the 25 dollar clearance Brembo front blanks from summit. Adding rear rotors and pads still bring the price higher than 165.
Honestly I can't imagine how brakemotive is able to offer that deal, PLUS free shipping, and make any money.
Anything slotted and/or drilled is basically just for looks.
Slots wear the pads a little quicker, and drilled rotors have a very good chance of cracking with hard use.
I actually found a brake mfg. that says right on thier website (I think it was brembo) that they do not recommend slotted/drilled for track use.
I ran a pair of Summit slotted/drilled rotors on the front my Jeep for a few years, and while they did not crack, they didn't make any difference in stopping feel over the OEM style rotors. Also, th Performance Friction pads I was running ate the hell out of the rotors, they wore them down almost to the bottom of the slots, and left a big lip around the outer edge of the rotor. In fact I failed the state vehicle inspection because of them, even though there was plenty of meat left on the pads, the PITA failed it for the rotors. Plus the rotors looked horrible, the slots looked like rusty grooves across the rotor face.
I replaced them with autozone blanks and pads, stopping power was greatly improved.
That said, I plan on going with the Brakemotive deal, and am pretty sure I'm going with blanks. I looked around, and I can't beat that deal anywhere else, even if I go with the 25 dollar clearance Brembo front blanks from summit. Adding rear rotors and pads still bring the price higher than 165.
Honestly I can't imagine how brakemotive is able to offer that deal, PLUS free shipping, and make any money.
#20
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Car is at my mechanics shop. I should have it back tomorrow. All that has to be done is wiring my two step to my momentary switch and transbrake to momentary switch and see if these wheels will fit.
So I can't check myself, but I will tomorrow.
Hell I haven't seen the car personally in over month now, I've been waiting on this damn transmission to be built. Finally got it back today, and found out yesterday all my rotors were cracked.
So I can't check myself, but I will tomorrow.
Hell I haven't seen the car personally in over month now, I've been waiting on this damn transmission to be built. Finally got it back today, and found out yesterday all my rotors were cracked.