Ballinonabudget

iTrader: (12)

Finally got around to installing some of the parts I've had sitting around forever. I'm doing Bilstein shocks/struts, BMR lowering springs, BMR swaybars, BMR LCA's, BMR panhard, and doing the rest later.

I got the rear shocks and springs in no problem, took 1 hour. The rear swaybar went in smooth as well, but the only thing is the bushings that were supplied with the bar don't seem to fit as snugly as they should - There is a small but noticeable gap between the bushing and the bar that is about 1/16 inch. It's the same loose as it is tightened down... is this bad or ok? Seems like you would want that bushing TIGHT on the bar, but idk.

Now I started on the LCA's and panhard, but WOW what a PITA. I jacked the rear up and supported the frame rails with jack stands, then let the rear hang down but supported it with the jack. All the bolts have been soaking in PB blaster all day, but none of the panhard bolts with budge AT ALL. I have tried doing it by hand with the 1/2 inch socket wrench and a boxed wrench on the nut, no luck. I tried using the impact gun on full power, no luck. I even tried using the jack handle (6 feet long) as a breaker bar, and ended up breaking the socket before the bolt would budge. I then heated the nut/bolt red hot and tried all 3 again, NO LUCK...

Is the bolt holding the panhard bar fixed in place or is it supposed to come out? Any suggestions on WTF I should try to get these bastard bolts/nuts off?

Then with the LCA's they were a PITA but I got all the nuts off. But now trying to pull the bolt through to get them out is impossible. I've got a vice grips on the bolt prying outward while I back the bolt out with the box wrench, and it's almost all the way out but it won't budge any farther. WTF AGAIN.... Any tips on making this easier too?

I'm going crazy trying to finish this.. the insane thing is my car is undercoated and has very little rust on it, all the other bolts I've ever taken off came out like butter. Idk what to do. Any help is GREATLY appreciated

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

"Ballin", you don't mention what year your car is, but even the newest 4th gen cars are now near 10 years old. If you're removing OE parts, that means they've been in place a long time, and have "grown" together.

Your best friends will be lubes such as PB Blaster, WD-40, and a lot of patience. When reassembling, be sure to use a good amount of water resistant grease on the bolts, where they slide through the various bushings, so they'll allow free rotation, and won't freeze up again. (PHB bolt is not "fixed")

The sway bar bushings should grip the bar somewhat snugly. If they don't, it appears that you received the incorrect ones. You should contact your supplier for replacements.

babbage1109

iTrader: (11)

I had to remove my ph bar to mess with my exhaust one time. Just took the bolts off. Used some nut buster and a rubber mallet to get the to start budging.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

I've had good luck with PB Blaster and a blunt air chisel. Operate the air chisel on about 40 psi so you're using it to "startle" the bolt but are nowhere near cutting it. That allows the magic elixir that is PB Blaster to work it's way in.

Ballinonabudget

iTrader: (12)

It's a 93 Z28.. the underbody was coated by the first owners (I am the second owner) and the car was stored and wrapped up in winter. Any work I have ever done on the car has been a breeze, the bolts come off like butter. The previous owners spared no expense on this car and there is only light rust on the moving suspension parts. These were the type of people to spend top dollar just to get brand new replacement DeCarbons lol... the ones I pulled off the rear were brand new.

I mentioned in my post I have been using PB blaster, and I always use anti-seize when I install new parts. I'm very thorough Thank you for the advice/suggestions. I will take a picture of the sway bar bushings to show what I'm talking about. Idk how it could possibly be wrong, but I think it has to be. These came with the bar along with the endlinks.

Ballinonabudget

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the air chisel/hammer idea, that might be the ticket I just want to be sure here - Am I correct in letting the rear axle hang low but supporting the rear end to remove the LCA's and Panhard? I have checked installation instructions for BMR/Spohn/UMI/Hotchkis and they are all different. Spohn says let the rear axle hang, Hotchkis says the rear axle needs to be jacked up and level. I want to try it with the rear jacked up but if that isn't the proper way I don't want a 50lb piece of steel coming crashing down on top of me when/if I get the bolts out

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Hey there!

First off, please post up or email me (kevin@bmrsuspension.com) a photo of the endlink, so I can see what you're concerned about. Typically, when the suspension is unloaded, there will be a small gap, but this will go away once the car is on the ground.

Second, PB Blaster needs to soak in really well for it to assist you in removing the bolt. I would avoid the air chisel, unless you have a replacement bolt you can use. If you're having trouble getting the bolt to slip out, hit the tip with a hammer after you applied a liberal amount of PB Blaster to the contact points of the bolt. You may need to reapply PB Blaster to the surface a few times before it will penetrate through. Also, keep in mind, it's not a magical liquid that will make it easy to remove the bolt, it will just break up some of the corrosion that potentially is holding the bolt in place. It will still require some elbow grease to get it out of there.

Before you reuse the nuts and bolts, fill a container with 50/50 water and CLR (Calcium Lime Rust remover) and let them sit in there for about an hour or until the rust has been lifted from the bolts (may need a brush). Sometimes the bolts can come out looking brand new. I also suggest painting the bolts black when you install them because it can prevent rust from building on the bolt surface again, and it looks clean to have black bolts under the car.

- Kevin

VinR1

iTrader: (17)

The axle moves in an arc so whel its allowed to hang, it causes the phb to twist ever so slightly. Raise it up and that may relieve some of the tension

For the swaybar end links, I cant mention any names but a certain suspension company has an undocumented (deleted) history of sending out the incorrect bolts (or, in my case, none at all) and calling YOU, the CUSTOMER, a LIAR when you politely point out THEIR error... Best bet would be to find some shorter bolts at the local hardware store

Ballinonabudget

iTrader: (12)

Hmm could you PM me this company? And thanks to everyone for the good advise I'll go out and hit round 2 and see what happens. I'll also take a pic of the swaybar bushings.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

PM me that company too!

VinR1

iTrader: (17)

PMs sent