subframes. torque arm, crossmember
#1
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subframes. torque arm, crossmember
i have been doing my homework on subframe connectors crossmembers and a torque arm. what are the best setups you guys have found. i was thinking about buying the crossmemeber and the torque arm but i was considering building my own subfram connectors.. has anyone done this and found that it is easier and cheaper to do? or should i just go ahead and buy everything together
#2
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There are some ingenious members on here who have come up with their own subframe connectors. Some turn out great, others turn out not-so-great. Our subframe connectors come with excellent welds, are made from high-quality DOM material, and were designed to stiffen the car in the most crucial areas. They also come in a durable, powdercoat finish and look great installed. Either way, it's up to you. If you think you can create them and come out with a quality product, the cost of materials shouldn't be too bad and, if all the labor is on you, you could come out ahead in your pocket.
If you do plan to buy them all together, feel free to contact me and maybe we can work something out.
- Kevin
If you do plan to buy them all together, feel free to contact me and maybe we can work something out.
- Kevin
#4
i have been doing my homework on subframe connectors crossmembers and a torque arm. what are the best setups you guys have found. i was thinking about buying the crossmemeber and the torque arm but i was considering building my own subfram connectors.. has anyone done this and found that it is easier and cheaper to do? or should i just go ahead and buy everything together
The nice thing about buying SFC's from a reputable company is the fit and finish is premium. We've done the hard work for you and built 50 prototype sets before deciding on a final, close-fitting, clean design.
ramey
#6
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If you decide you want a set of 2 point subframe connectors let me know and I will price a set out to you.
Kyle
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#8
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Because they are easy to install and require no welding. Just because everyone does it doesn't mean it is the ideal thing to do.
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#9
Two point was the industry standard for a long time so really, it's up to the customer. We have fast cars on 2's and 3's...
ramey
#11
Good afternoon 1fstwhip
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo..._page=02camaro
Image 16 in the link above shows our 2002 with an x-pipe exhaust. What style were you thinking?
ramey
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo..._page=02camaro
Image 16 in the link above shows our 2002 with an x-pipe exhaust. What style were you thinking?
ramey
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Okay thanks for that. Seeing it really helps me on my choice. Is that a good drag set up on that car? I noticed it didn't have adj lca's. I'm going to have bigger tires eventually so I think ill go with the adj lca's
#13
That car was intended to showcase our products in-general and had been to the strip as well as being used for corner carving/daily driving by a throttle happy employee. I won't mention Jerry's name. You could certainly add adjustable LCA's. I'm sure that setup would be suitable for the occasional drag event.
The only thing this car didn't have was shocks with specific drag race rebound damping. The adjustable KYB AGX's go from 95% as soft to 123% stiffer than stock.
Oh, and it also has the long torque arm which may drop the 60' time a tenth or two over tunnel mount but is still way more awesome than stock...
ramey
The only thing this car didn't have was shocks with specific drag race rebound damping. The adjustable KYB AGX's go from 95% as soft to 123% stiffer than stock.
Oh, and it also has the long torque arm which may drop the 60' time a tenth or two over tunnel mount but is still way more awesome than stock...
ramey
#15
from what i understand, the boxed are a little better, but for most fbodies that dont autocross, or track your car, round ones should be more than enough. But lets see what the pros suggest...
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I am looking to get a torque arm in the near future. I was planing on going with the tunnel
Mount with the driveshaft loop. But if you are saying the longer one is better then I guess I should go with that one. I already have 3 point subframe connectors, control arms. Panhard bar, V6 springs and comp eng drag launch shocks. I am also thinking about getting new shocks. Not real happy with the ones I have as one has gone bad and they are not even a year old.
Mount with the driveshaft loop. But if you are saying the longer one is better then I guess I should go with that one. I already have 3 point subframe connectors, control arms. Panhard bar, V6 springs and comp eng drag launch shocks. I am also thinking about getting new shocks. Not real happy with the ones I have as one has gone bad and they are not even a year old.
#17
You can order square or round with equal confidence.
ramey
#18
I am looking to get a torque arm in the near future. I was planing on going with the tunnel
Mount with the driveshaft loop. But if you are saying the longer one is better then I guess I should go with that one. I already have 3 point subframe connectors, control arms. Panhard bar, V6 springs and comp eng drag launch shocks. I am also thinking about getting new shocks. Not real happy with the ones I have as one has gone bad and they are not even a year old.
Mount with the driveshaft loop. But if you are saying the longer one is better then I guess I should go with that one. I already have 3 point subframe connectors, control arms. Panhard bar, V6 springs and comp eng drag launch shocks. I am also thinking about getting new shocks. Not real happy with the ones I have as one has gone bad and they are not even a year old.
Most drag oriented customers choose the tunnel mounted torque arm with the added benefit of the D/S loop.
As we were discussing above, it's an industry thing to use a tunnel mount for drag racing although some customers go pretty fast on a trans mount T/A for sure.
Unofficial seat of the pants and customer feedback testing indicates tunnel mount for your car. If you're street driving and want a little bit quieter driving experience the trans mount will be fine. Either T/A is a massive upgrade from stock.
ramey
#19
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Like was said earlier either will really work for you, the boxed subframe connectors are a bit stronger than the tubular subframe connectors. I personally like the boxed over the tubular because it gives you plenty of places to jack the car up at.
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www.bmrsuspension.com
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#20
thats true, i didnt even think of that and i ended up getting tubular ones a while back. Maybe if i do sfc later on i can also jack the car up from there