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subframes. torque arm, crossmember

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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 03:03 PM
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Default subframes. torque arm, crossmember

i have been doing my homework on subframe connectors crossmembers and a torque arm. what are the best setups you guys have found. i was thinking about buying the crossmemeber and the torque arm but i was considering building my own subfram connectors.. has anyone done this and found that it is easier and cheaper to do? or should i just go ahead and buy everything together
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 09:02 AM
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There are some ingenious members on here who have come up with their own subframe connectors. Some turn out great, others turn out not-so-great. Our subframe connectors come with excellent welds, are made from high-quality DOM material, and were designed to stiffen the car in the most crucial areas. They also come in a durable, powdercoat finish and look great installed. Either way, it's up to you. If you think you can create them and come out with a quality product, the cost of materials shouldn't be too bad and, if all the labor is on you, you could come out ahead in your pocket.

If you do plan to buy them all together, feel free to contact me and maybe we can work something out.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 09:52 AM
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Honestly, for the price, I think you'd be crazy not to just purchase a set of SFC's outright. 2 points are less than $200 shipped and 3 points a little more.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 1fstwhip
i have been doing my homework on subframe connectors crossmembers and a torque arm. what are the best setups you guys have found. i was thinking about buying the crossmemeber and the torque arm but i was considering building my own subfram connectors.. has anyone done this and found that it is easier and cheaper to do? or should i just go ahead and buy everything together
Good morning 1fstwhip.

The nice thing about buying SFC's from a reputable company is the fit and finish is premium. We've done the hard work for you and built 50 prototype sets before deciding on a final, close-fitting, clean design.

ramey
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 01:08 AM
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Well what's the different between the 3 and 2 point. I know the the 3 point connect the crossmember but how much better does that make the set up
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 1fstwhip
Well what's the different between the 3 and 2 point. I know the the 3 point connect the crossmember but how much better does that make the set up
In my opinion I think that usefulness of that 3rd mounting point is very debatable because it mounts on the the trans tunnel/floorboards where the metal is very thin. We have had guys goy 7's and 8's on our 2 point subframe connectors so we absolutely know that the 2 point subframes are more than sufficent.

If you decide you want a set of 2 point subframe connectors let me know and I will price a set out to you.



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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 07:45 AM
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If the floor boards are so weak then why do so many people buy crossmember mounted torque arms?
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 2cat95ta
If the floor boards are so weak then why do so many people buy crossmember mounted torque arms?
Because they are easy to install and require no welding. Just because everyone does it doesn't mean it is the ideal thing to do.
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 1fstwhip
Well what's the different between the 3 and 2 point. I know the the 3 point connect the crossmember but how much better does that make the set up
Measuring the benefit of 2 vs 3 point SFC's is a bit difficult. The fact that GM has a stiffening rib at the third attachment point indicates additional support there wouldn't hurt.

Two point was the industry standard for a long time so really, it's up to the customer. We have fast cars on 2's and 3's...

ramey
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 01:22 PM
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I just want to make sure the parts I buy is going to be the ones I keep. Does the 3 point get in the way of the exhaust?
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 01:28 PM
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Good afternoon 1fstwhip

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo..._page=02camaro

Image 16 in the link above shows our 2002 with an x-pipe exhaust. What style were you thinking?

ramey
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 02:27 PM
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Okay thanks for that. Seeing it really helps me on my choice. Is that a good drag set up on that car? I noticed it didn't have adj lca's. I'm going to have bigger tires eventually so I think ill go with the adj lca's
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 02:34 PM
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That car was intended to showcase our products in-general and had been to the strip as well as being used for corner carving/daily driving by a throttle happy employee. I won't mention Jerry's name. You could certainly add adjustable LCA's. I'm sure that setup would be suitable for the occasional drag event.

The only thing this car didn't have was shocks with specific drag race rebound damping. The adjustable KYB AGX's go from 95% as soft to 123% stiffer than stock.

Oh, and it also has the long torque arm which may drop the 60' time a tenth or two over tunnel mount but is still way more awesome than stock...

ramey
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 12:02 AM
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so another question on the sfcs.. on the 2 point.. tubular or boxed? im not really worried about weight but i would like to get the best one.. if there is even a better one.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 01:46 AM
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from what i understand, the boxed are a little better, but for most fbodies that dont autocross, or track your car, round ones should be more than enough. But lets see what the pros suggest...
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 06:53 AM
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I am looking to get a torque arm in the near future. I was planing on going with the tunnel
Mount with the driveshaft loop. But if you are saying the longer one is better then I guess I should go with that one. I already have 3 point subframe connectors, control arms. Panhard bar, V6 springs and comp eng drag launch shocks. I am also thinking about getting new shocks. Not real happy with the ones I have as one has gone bad and they are not even a year old.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 1fstwhip
so another question on the sfcs.. on the 2 point.. tubular or boxed? im not really worried about weight but i would like to get the best one.. if there is even a better one.
Good morning. If you look at the spec sheets for the actual tubing vs square, the boxed is stronger. The chance of ever buckling either SFC in compression or pulling it apart in tension is close to zero. Bottom line is it's difficult to measure the benefit one way or the other and customers love either style.

You can order square or round with equal confidence.

ramey
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 98 T/A raptor
I am looking to get a torque arm in the near future. I was planing on going with the tunnel
Mount with the driveshaft loop. But if you are saying the longer one is better then I guess I should go with that one. I already have 3 point subframe connectors, control arms. Panhard bar, V6 springs and comp eng drag launch shocks. I am also thinking about getting new shocks. Not real happy with the ones I have as one has gone bad and they are not even a year old.
Good morning 98 T/A raptor.

Most drag oriented customers choose the tunnel mounted torque arm with the added benefit of the D/S loop.

As we were discussing above, it's an industry thing to use a tunnel mount for drag racing although some customers go pretty fast on a trans mount T/A for sure.

Unofficial seat of the pants and customer feedback testing indicates tunnel mount for your car. If you're street driving and want a little bit quieter driving experience the trans mount will be fine. Either T/A is a massive upgrade from stock.

ramey
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Zlow28
from what i understand, the boxed are a little better, but for most fbodies that dont autocross, or track your car, round ones should be more than enough. But lets see what the pros suggest...
Like was said earlier either will really work for you, the boxed subframe connectors are a bit stronger than the tubular subframe connectors. I personally like the boxed over the tubular because it gives you plenty of places to jack the car up at.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BMR Sales2
Like was said earlier either will really work for you, the boxed subframe connectors are a bit stronger than the tubular subframe connectors. I personally like the boxed over the tubular because it gives you plenty of places to jack the car up at.
thats true, i didnt even think of that and i ended up getting tubular ones a while back. Maybe if i do sfc later on i can also jack the car up from there
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