mac62989

iTrader: (1)

I plan on ordering Koni's and BMR springs in the next week. Theyll lower the car 1.25". I have 17x11 Fikse on the back of my car. What panhard bar would work well with my setup? Will I have to roll the fenders? I didnt bother searching, Im looking for some input from guys who either run those springs or 17x11 Fikse. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

-Matt

NicB

iTrader: (4)

I just installed a founders adjustable panhard bar on my 99 z with 18x10.5 on the rear with eibach prokit. Fits great and looks good. Great price as well

sokr915

iTrader: (3)

You will probably have to roll your fenders with your 315 and x11. My buddy just put in BMR/bilstein with 315 and x10.5 wheels and had to roll his. As far as PHB I would just buy a single adjustable from founders. I have a Spohn single adj on mine but that's because I got them used with LCA's.

sokr915

iTrader: (3)

Or if you are wanting to test fit before you order, you can always let me borrow your fikse for a weekend

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

What tires are you running? Some 11's are more equal than others. I run 17x11 (GS-DS3 tires), am lowered the same amount, and used to run a UMI PHB. I rolled my fenders, and BFH'd. Usually end up doing at least one of those two things. How much rubbing you notice depends on the aggressiveness of your driving also, hard cornering reveals the rubbing loudly.

redlineracing

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, really all depends. What is the offset on the wheels? If this offset is correct you may be able to get away with just some BFH'ing.

As far as which PHB, i put exclusively UMI and strano products on my car. I would reccomend a UMI adjustable for you. However, BMR also makes good products.

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

If you ask me on a night im drinking, I might allow that.

Im running NT555. Im gonna look into the founders.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

Nitto's run narrow so you might luck out with minimal fender problems.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

I would recommend using our BMR adjustable panhard rod with poly bushings (PHR002), it will do everything you need it to and it is double adjustable so you can adjust it with it installed on the car.

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

I honestly have no clue what the offsets are. When I ordered them they were just F-body specific.

Anyone know the difference between poly bushings and rod/rod style?

redlineracing

iTrader: (1)

Poly is ideal for a drag setup. However, if handling is a priority, a rod end or roto joint is your best best. Poly does not let the suspension articulate well, while rod/roto allows it to articulate freely.

Rod ends are often know for being very harsh and are known for not lasting as long as other options. They are good for a dedicated race vehicle or a weekend cruiser. For a daily though, I would reccomend roto joints. They are a happy medium between the poly and rod ends. Still let the suspension articulate well, while not being overly harsh as well as a longer life span than rod ends. UMI makes these, and they are what I use on my vehicle.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

That applys to LCAs and other stuff but not the PHB. There's no binding involved because it's just one arm swinging. I'd just go for an adjustable rod ended PHB either way.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

The PHB controls lateral location of the differential housing in relation to the car. It's one of the few places where we can use a rod end with minimal NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness). As we move from rubber to poly, poly to Roto, Roto to rod end, the lateral movement keeps decreasing which in turn makes the car feel more stable.

The difference between feel in rubber vs poly is pretty high, keeping in mind it's hard to measure via the seat of the pants technology. The difference between poly and Roto/Rod end is comparatively less.

Double adjustable is nice as you can set the PHB length without removing the main attachment bolts.

Double adjustable, double rod end is pretty sweet for sure but even a basic poly bushing model is a nice upgrade.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...Path=7_138_106

ramey

95LTXZ28

iTrader: (19)

Whatever brand you buy I would recommend an on car adjustable model, it makes the adjustment of it alot easier. As far as brands, I have had UMI and spohn (current PHB), but I just recently bought a few items (no PHB) from founders performance, and there parts are quality pieces, dont be fooled by the low price.

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

Good info guys. Thanks!

Latch

iTrader: (8)

I've got Nitto NT555s on my car and they're noticeably wider than my old Sumitomos, they're just as wide as the Mickey Thompston drag radials I had. The Nittos that run narrow are the NT555Rs.

guitarplayersteven

If I could do it all over again, I'd go single adjustable. I purchased an Edelbrock 5222 double adjustable PHB when I dropped my car and had problems with it coming loose as I drove around even though I tightened the bolts tight. I straightened it out and put some blue Loctite on the bolts and it seems to be hanging in there. I still don't like knowing that it has a possibility of coming loose on car but that's just me.

redlineracing

iTrader: (1)

Ahh okay, thanks for clearing that up. Makes perfect sense. Still learning suspension details myself

Guitar

iTrader: (9)

I went with the Founder's one. Priced right for me and is said to be quality.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

If you want to get really detailed about it, the PHB is pulled forward and pushed back as the suspension compresses and rebounds. Trailing arm suspensions, like the S197 Mustang's three link, and the F-body's torque arm suspension pull the wheels forward in compression and rebound.

You can draw this out with a bow compass. Put the spike on the black dot in the red circle, and the pencil end on the black dot in the green circle, and scribe the arc.



With the limited travel available it shouldn't be much twisting in the PHB, but it is there.