Johnnybgoode

Anyone have some good ideas on how to get the rear rotors off ? They seem to be rusted on and did not really want to use the BFH approach since I am worried about damaging the rear end. I also do not have access to a torch so heat is not an option. So far some light taping and WD-40 have failed to work.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

First ... your emergency brake is off, right?

BFH it. You won't hurt the rear end. But use common sense.

Consider using a scotch brite pad or emory cloth on the hub so that the rust doesn't build up as you slide the rotors off.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I spent 15 minutes beating on mine with a 16 oz ball peen.

A trip to sears and a 5 lb hammer later. One whack popped it right off.

Gets my vote!

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

And you have removed those spring steel keepers from around the studs as well, right?

BADz2ATE

yep use PB BLaster instead of wd40, and use a BFH i do brakes at my shop all day long and all i ever use is my trusty impact a rail of sockets and my hammer, just hit it solid and it usually takes one to two blows and its off. good luck

Mike

Johnnybgoode

Thx guys. This worked fine. Didn't even have to hit it that hard. I was actually hitting the rotor on the drum/hub side thinking this would loosen the rotor enough to come off. (since I did not want to damage the actual disk surface). Then I thought who cares anyway since I'm replacing the disk (Du!). Gave the disk a few whacks from behind and it popped right off.

I have another question. If I want to bleed the system does anyone have any experience with these vacuum bleeder systems they sell in the auto parts stores? I'm doing all of the work by myself so something like this would be helpful so long as it really works. What do ya think?

C6 Vette

Why does my Haynes repair manual say "IF the car has ABS, leave rear brake work to the dealer, since any attempt to change the rotor or pads will set off a computer error code"?
I changed the front rotors and pads, and didn't have any code. Is it really ABS related or is it traction control, which would make more sense?

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I dunno ... seems kind of odd to me ...

VIP1

My car has TCS. During the test drive after the swap, it did lightly drag a tire around one turn (after a semi-short stop) and when I turned the car around to park on the street after the drive, the dash lit up like a Christmas tree. I shut it down and started it up again. No problems since and that was a few months ago. I say, dont worry. Just do it yourself. Its easy to do.

--VIP1

BADz2ATE

hey dont get a vacuum bleeder, they are nice but get the one many bleeder screws, they are spring loaded, and autozone and advance auto sell them for 13.00 a pair. good investment.

Mike

Humanoid

iTrader: (3)

If your rotor doesnt come off bang the crap out of it. I found this post cause I was having this problem with both side on my car. I just got midevil on the rotors and they finally came off. I dont know what I would have done if I were planning on removing them without replacing them. That would be tough.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Rubber Mallet

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Tried it, didn't work for me. A nice, cold, steel hammer did the trick.

ActionJack

Congrats on removing the rotor(s). I always beat it with a hammer (or BFH)on the front face going around until it breaks free.

Also, if you bleed the brakes (and you may not need to if all you did was change the rotor and pads) make sure you did not set off the ABS your last time driving. Otherwise, I do not think you have anything to worry about. I have done the front and rear and no problems.