Alignment Specs
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Alignment Specs
I'm not liking the "feel" of my TA's steering. Here are my alignment specs .... anything stand out? I've replaced mostly everything regarding the suspension except the upper and lower front end upper and lower control arm bushings. The car has 245,000.
LF
camber: -0.7
caster: 5.6
toe: -0.03
RF
camber: -0.5
caster: 5.1
toe: -0.05
front end cross camber -0.1/cross caster 0.5/ total toe: -0.07
LR
camber: 0.0
toe: .26
RR
camber: -0.4
toe: -0.12
thrust angle: .19
rear end total toe: 0.15
LF
camber: -0.7
caster: 5.6
toe: -0.03
RF
camber: -0.5
caster: 5.1
toe: -0.05
front end cross camber -0.1/cross caster 0.5/ total toe: -0.07
LR
camber: 0.0
toe: .26
RR
camber: -0.4
toe: -0.12
thrust angle: .19
rear end total toe: 0.15
#2
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I'm not liking the "feel" of my TA's steering. Here are my alignment specs .... anything stand out? I've replaced mostly everything regarding the suspension except the upper and lower front end upper and lower control arm bushings. The car has 245,000.
LF
camber: -0.7
caster: 5.6
toe: -0.03
RF
camber: -0.5
caster: 5.1
toe: -0.05
front end cross camber -0.1/cross caster 0.5/ total toe: -0.07
LR
camber: 0.0
toe: .26
RR
camber: -0.4
toe: -0.12
thrust angle: .19
rear end total toe: 0.15
LF
camber: -0.7
caster: 5.6
toe: -0.03
RF
camber: -0.5
caster: 5.1
toe: -0.05
front end cross camber -0.1/cross caster 0.5/ total toe: -0.07
LR
camber: 0.0
toe: .26
RR
camber: -0.4
toe: -0.12
thrust angle: .19
rear end total toe: 0.15
caster is lower on right than left ( will cause a little drift to right side )
- toe will cause a little warnding on road ( may cause little wear on inside of tires)
245 k is a lot of miles, check thoes bushing close( may be broken down inside)
not a real problem with rear camber and rear toe, not any thing you can do for rear ( if you have rear adj lower control arms you may like to close up the rear thrust line)
I am lowered 1 3/4 to 2 " around ( but lowered or stock )
I like to run close to OE specs
just my 02s Johnny
#4
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
#8
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Yeah ... that will really tighten things up. Going over bumps are harsh and it's more work to drive it on the highway when windy ... etc....etc.
I am going to get a 20 ton press from Harbor Freight; I'm reading good things about it. It will pay for itself as I have a `79 Firebird, `75 Corvette and `99 Suburban that has high mileage and needs the bushings replaced.
I am going to get a 20 ton press from Harbor Freight; I'm reading good things about it. It will pay for itself as I have a `79 Firebird, `75 Corvette and `99 Suburban that has high mileage and needs the bushings replaced.
#9
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
I'm about to pull the trigger on a 20 ton press because I have 32 control arm bushing to press out/in.... including the 8 on the TA. My question is are there any tool kits out there that I need as well?
I suppose that I could fab some tubing and cut it open so that pressing doesn't collapse the control arm.
I suppose that I could fab some tubing and cut it open so that pressing doesn't collapse the control arm.
#10
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (28)
ya, dosnt have to be tubing, you can use soild,angle or bar stock too.
stock bushing Id cut them sleeves out, and just don't cut alot into the arm, you will a little but it will be fine., drill the heads of the rivits on the ball joints, or grind them off. new ones will nut and bolt in the holes.
stock bushing Id cut them sleeves out, and just don't cut alot into the arm, you will a little but it will be fine., drill the heads of the rivits on the ball joints, or grind them off. new ones will nut and bolt in the holes.