US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Went to have an alignment done and found out the bushings in my lower control arms are shot so rather than just replace bushings I figure ill just get rid of the factory lca's, so looking for suggestions in aftermarket at a good price, can't get the alignment until I get these replaced so quick responses appreciated, thanks in advance

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

If you want a 1" front lowering the get the BMR #AA020 lower front A-arms
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=841
If you're not wanting to lower it then look at the UMI A-arms #2306 and #2312.
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=543
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=620
The UMI #2312 is the strongest.

moperider

Just a heads up if you go aftermarket lowers then you will be limited to who can do the alignment since they can't use the standard alignment tools. I have lifetime alignment with Firestone and now they won't work on it because I have aftermarket control arms.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Not great for a heavily street driven car. Replace the bushings, they are cheap, unless your car isn't driven much.

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Yeah its my only car so its driven everywhere lol, I know the bushings are cheap, but I got told 250 in labor to replace em so either way its gonna cost a chunk of change

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

IMO, any of the A-arms I recommended should be perfectly fine.
I've been running a set of UMI chrome moly tubular A-arms for at least +4 years with a set of 625 lb.in. front springs on my DD Camaro and have had ZERO issues. Now as far as front end alignments as long as you go to a shop with good, experienced techs the aftermarket A-arms should be a NON-issue. Finally if you don't have any good alignment tech in your area then maybe consider having new rubber bushings installed in the factory A-arms.

Richard Schmidt

I will let you know tonight. Just finished putting bmr control arm on an l have a 1:30 with alignment shop today. They look nice but we will see if they can do it.

themealonwheels

iTrader: (20)

Yeah, I've got UMI control arms on my Z28 and the BMR 1" lowering ones on my B4C. I also have lifetime alignments with Firestone and they've done a couple alignments on each. They've never mentioned an issue, they usually compliment me on my suspension... lol!

I'd recommend the BMR 1" units, I like running the stock springs up front.

camarokid91

How do you get lifetime alignments? Did I miss something ?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Tubular arms are known to break on street cars. Do the research it may not be super common but it happens, remember its a critical part of operating the car safely.....you know the control arms being intact. Not worth a wreck.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

We have our normal BMR lower a-arms (AA002) and we also have our BMR 1" lowering a-arms (AA020) which will lower the front ride height of the car 1". Either of these tubular a-arms will handle daily driving street duty so I wouldn't be concerned with that, I have been here over five years and we haven't had a lower a-arm break in that timeframe. Also before I worked here I had a set of our BMR lower a-arms (AA002) on my personal T/A and drove them for a couple years and put 50k miles on them and I never had one issue with them.

If you have any questions or if there is any way we can help you out let us know.

Kyle

fruitsalad

iTrader: (5)

You go to Firestone and pay $120.

I'm not sure Firestone counts as a quality alignment shop though.

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

I guess I should say that of I go aftermarket ill be going with chromoly, seems as though those should stand up to normal daily driving

Richard Schmidt

The car back from the shop all good. Fix toe an camber. An only cost me $75.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

And what in your metalurgic expertise gives you that idea? Chromoly is strong......and brittle. And it is more difficult and finicky to weld then mild steel. Under trauma mild steel will likely bend, chromoly will snap. Nobody here should pretend there are expertise welders welding these chromoly pieces but I dang sure hope they have a repeatable protocol to at least ensure a somewhat lower chance of weld failure. Chromoly isn't just "stronger" or "lighter" then mild steel. It has its drawbacks.....like to be lighter they use thinner material. Remember this is your control arm. Kudos to BMR for not having any failures......what about the mounts where they hook to the k member though? I won't air dirty laundry here however.

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Yes please don't this isn't a thread for your dirty laundry, plain and simple, it seems like there's plenty of people who use tubular lowers on dd's with no results. And considering it'll cost the same for me to buy stock replacements as it will to go aftermarket, ill be going aftermarket, you have a point about chromoly, never said it was indestructible, but it is stronger than mild steel, the mild steel would bend before the chromoly snaps, pretty sure if it were that brittle it wouldn't be an approved material for roll cages. That being said ill be shooting you a pm bmr, got a few more questions for ya before I buy.

garygnu

you can R&R your own bushings using a big bench vice and sockets or tubing .drill out the old bushings .

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

If I still had all my tools I could go that route but I got laid off at one point and had to sell a lot of things, including 90% of my tools

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

VERY sorry to hear that, but if you're connected to the military (your avatar), isn't there someplace on a military base that can help you out, and get some new bushings in the arms you already have?


Secondly, something else to consider, is that the aftermarket a-arms, for the most part, use either polyurethane bushings or rod ends, for the inner pivot points. While these are great for SMOOTH roads, and/or race tracks, they are less than ideal for places where the roads are rough. (I know this 1st hand). You mentioned your car is a DD. Just something to consider......

US_Army_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Well I'm no longer on active duty, transferred to national guard otherwise yeah I could go the route of doing it myself, they generally have self service shops on base, at least all the oness I've been on. But thanks for the tip on the bushings thankfully most of the roads around here so while there are plenty of rough roads left, I do have smoother routes to take to most places I generally go, something ill just have to keep an eye on