DemonicZ

BMR Drive shaft loop
BMR K-member
BMR strut tower brace
BMR SFC weld in
BMR A-Arms (U&L) adjustable
BMR LCA relo weld in
BMR LCA adjustable
BMR sway bar 35mm
BMR sway bar 25mm
BMR Torque Arm relo
BMR Torque Arm adjustable
KONI Yellows
Strano springs
FAYS2 Watts linkage

AndersonsSS01

I don't think you don't need the weld in lower control arm relocation brackets unless you have an aftermarket rear end so personally i would just go with the bolt ins but other than that i think that looks like a pretty good list.

DemonicZ

I don't have an aftermarket rear end yet but I plan on a Moser 12 bolt from Spohn so I'd rather buy one set of LCA relos.

MyFirstLS1

iTrader: (8)

Is that a chassis mounted torque arm ?

I know the one I got with the long tubes makes its hang pretty low and with the roads around here im nevervous its going to catch if I lower it anymore

Do your motor mounts at the same time as the K. I would stay away from solid. It makes it much harder removing trans and also seemed like it jacked up my trans closer to the floor. If I could do It again I would have went poly.

JD_AMG

What exactly are you doing with the car? There are some contradictions here, like if you want handling you do not want a 12 bolt rear, relocation brackets, or an over sized rear swaybar.

Fixes for you:
*UMI road race K-member(other drag oriented ones crack/break when street driven, you want a heavy duty one if you are going to replace the stock one)
*UMI A-arms (match the K-member)
*No relocation brackets (hurt handling, minimal traction gain at best)
*strano 35mm/22mm swaybars (better balanced)
*no poly bushings (poly binds)

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

I would pay more attention to weight. Those sways are heavy. I just switched to a MWC ds loop because the BMR hung way too low...the MWC goes over the ds. It was also 1 pound less. Not much but lose a couple pounds here and there it adds up quick.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

Give me a call before you purchase anything... You will be pleasantly surprised with the info and prices I have for you!

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

That list covers everything from front to back for sure but what are your plans and goals with the car? I just want to make sure that you have the best parts in mind that will optimally work for you. Either shoot me a PM or give me a call at the shop and I would be more than happy to go over everything with you and see what I can do for you on pricing with all the parts.

Kyle

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Since UMI was mentioned earlier in the thread (thanks JD), I'll throw our hat in the ring as well. Koni/Strano's are the gold standard for these handling cars and the Fays2 can get you that last tenth and make the rear more predictable. I'm happy to discuss the rest of our parts and even provide part numbers if you want to one-stop-shop at Strano's.

I drove a UMI/Koni/Strano car this summer with the new BFG Rival tire at Pittsburgh International. Talk about a blast...

ramey

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

You're gonna get a lot of opinions with that list....

I can tell you that if you are looking to use my springs and Koni's, then I'd recommend my bars (since they are all designed together and proven out with championships together). I think a lot of the other parts on the list are probably overkill, but honestly don't know really what the intended goal is. It looks to me like you just kind of complied a list of parts that folks say you "gotta have".

Conversely to UMI being able to sell my springs, etc I also carry their full line and have some package deals on a number of things too.

Frankly, we could go down the list and I'd be hard-pressed to want to sell you everything on it. Some of it just isn't right for handling, and some of it is likely overkill.

Without taking to you, in order, I'd start with Koni, Strano springs, Strano bars, Fays2, K-member, Front LCA's, Rear LCA's... from there we'd have weigh the needs of other parts. And FWIW, not all LCA's are equal, so the type of parts needs to be talked about as well.

And Ramey, glad you liked it.

BTW here's a few links to clips that might help. This is my old car, which doesn't have a lot of the parts you have listed:

http://www.stranoparts.com/videos.php?VideoID=2

And this one (pay particular attention to the "outside" clip starting at about the 1:00 mark).
http://www.stranoparts.com/videos.php?VideoID=2

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Yeah Sam, we unloaded at PittRace and were getting ready and this dude pulled up in an LT car. He came over and introduced himself as one of our customers and mentioned he had UMI/Strano/Koni and a fresh set of Rival's.

It was his first trip to a road course.

He ran a few sessions then asked me to try his car. I was flattered yet stressed about potentially fencing a customers car but then decided trying the dream combo was too good to pass up. After a lap or two getting comfortable I started catching some fast cars and getting waved past (nice feeling). The main thing I noticed was how predictable the car was and how hard I could lean on it without sliding the rear. Just an overall nice balance and some wicked grip for a street car. Perma Grin.

DemonicZ

My car is going to be an all around daily driver. I live in the mountains and I drive the twisties everyday and it's gotten boring do to the lack of handling capability and power. Both which are in the plan and build stages. The car will see minimal 1/4 mile and track time. Mostly daily twisty tearing up and highway rolls in conjunction of being daily driven. I will have 700-800rwhp through either a 4L80E or T56 Magnum, haven't decided yet, I talked to my friend who is building a 408 turbo stroker and he said a Moser 12 with 3.73s would be good for what I want to do.

OPEN TO ALL SUGGESTIONS!!!!

JD_AMG

While 700+hp would be a blast, good luck getting the car to be stable around turns, especially on the street. Im not saying you need to be going WOT around turns, but 700+RWHP will be totally unusable on back roads.
Wanna have big power + good handling? Nitrous. Build the engine for a big shot, then when on the backroads keep the bottle closed and you wont have to worry about killing yourself as much.
Stick with a manual tranny (WAY more control), and if you insist on an aftermarket rear, get what ever is the lightest possible (aluminum 9"?)
Sam is the guy you want to listen to about making these things handle well.

DemonicZ

10 bolts are junk especially behind a 6spd, I already blew one up with stock power through the 4L60E. I'm sure with the added shock from the T56 magnum another 10 bolt would be through with 700rwhp+ So a new rearend is a must. As far as Nitrous, I don't like it and will never run it in any car I own.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

As-far-as your list, Id leave the front upper arms off the list unless for some strange reason you need -2* camber or more, just install new ball-joints and bushing if needed. For Swaybars go with the Strano's with the adjustable rear bar. With the rear LCAs just avoid anything that will hamper articulation (regular poly bushings), I'd recommend the UMI adjustable LCAs with the roto-joints. Furthermore go with the UMI HD road race K-member.

BTW, Good luck with your suspension build!

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Yeah, it's a driver and a handler... which is why you don't need half the stuff on the list.

SuperSport01

For a car that will be daily driven any, the only tubular K member I would use is a UMI road race. For a drag only setup I would prefer a BMR.