Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

I once had an 05 Saleen Mustang which had upgraded "racecraft" suspension. When I tried to demonstrate the stiffness of the car to people I would try to rock the car back and forth by pushing it from the outside. It would not move, compared to most other cars, yet it drove very nicely in terms of ride comfort, even on 20" wheels. No tram lining either, whereas my T/A does it constantly with the same width tires and smaller wheels.

My question is was this the better chassis on the newer Mustang or upgraded suspension at work - springs and shocks, and if so, what kind of suspension set up would I need to hold a candle to it in an F-body? My car feels like it moves all over the place. I've only got Bilstein HD shocks with about 15k miles, everything else stock on a 70k mile car. How big of an improvement in the direction I want to go in would a set of strano springs make?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Your previous mustang most likely stiffer springs with shocks valved for the springs, stiffer bushings and sway-bars, along with probably having a better front-end alignment and tires. I'm sure most of it is the upgraded suspension the Saleen had. The tram lining is either caused by the front end alignment and/or tires. As far as it moving all over the place, new or stiffer bushings and a set of strano sway-bars should do the trick!

Latch

iTrader: (8)

A nice set of sway bars would make a BIG difference, I know it did on my car.

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input, I'll be doing swaybars first, then re doing the bushings everywhere if I can.

DarkblueTA

Shocks were the #1 ride/handling improvement in my car.
2. Springs
3. Rod ended, double adj. pan hard bar.
4. Poly on the 32/19 sway bars the SS/WS6 cars come up with.

Once you do the above, get an alignment. I'm running 4.5 Caster, -1.0 Camber and a touch (IIRC 1/32) of toe IN. Wear is fine, handles great and does not tram line.

Empatho

iTrader: (16)

When I did the strano springs and better shocks I noticed a big difference in the way the car felt on the road, it was a big improvement over the stock decarbon crap shocks and stock springs. Later on I wanted more so I got some strano swaybars and they made a big difference also, I highly recommend strano parts if you want a good handling set up.

loosecannonzs

My TA had 73k miles when I bought it.

The order I did my Suspension upgrades was as follows,

BMR springs and Koni 4/4 Adj. with Double Adj Panhard Rod.

New Wheels and Tires (Invo's) followed by an Alignment (4.5 Caster, -1.0 Camber, and 1/16 of toe IN).

BMR Hollow Front Swaybar.

The car needed tires badly when I bought it, but the wheels I wanted were on back order. I went ahead and put the Springs and Shocks on with the Panhard Rod on a Sunday. Even with the dry rotted, off brand tires with flat spots it was like a totally different car. The difference was incredible!!!! Felt more like a sports car and less like old worn out muscle car.

I gave up on the wheels and ordered a different style 18" and put Nitto Invo's on the car and got the Alignment. As you can imagine this made a huge improvement also. But I feel the Springs and Shocks made more of a difference everywhere while the Tires made their difference when really pushing the car, driving in rain, and road noise.

Last up is the BMR Hollow Front Swaybar. This made a noticeable change also, but nothing like the Shocks.

I'm glad I made all these changes 1st. After a front brake upgrade I will be throwing my money at the Horse Power!

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the alignment specs, they will be useful.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

If you want a VERY tight suspension, Bilsteins aren't good enough. They don't have enough rebound damping. I'd start by upgrading to Koni SA's and Strano or BMR springs. The ride won't be as cushy as it is with the Bilstein/stock springs, though. Sway bars will address body roll in corners if that's a primary concern.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

To the OP, how many miles are currently on your car? If it's more than 60-70,000, I'd be looking at replacing ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings, before throwing HP parts at it. I'd also be looking at the alignment settings.

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

Well it really is the rocking left to right that I was referring to, it should have been obvious that sway bars were the answer but I got a lot of ideas from this thread anyhow. Thanks.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Not necessarily...worn shocks will create the same effect. How many miles are on the car?

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

70k, shocks were put on by previous owner about 1 year before I bought it, they ought to be good.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

True, but if they went with a "budget replacement" shock like a Monroe, they're not going to give you the ride you're looking for.

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

They're Bilstein HD's, its in the first post. They're not Konis, but they are supposed to be pretty good, right? I can only do a little at a time, I'm going to order some swaybars after the holidays for starters, then start saving again.

Empatho

iTrader: (16)

Yeah do the sway bars first, you should be happy with that for a while.

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

I just put them in, 35 front 22 rear. I took the car on the freeway and took some onramps and offramps at the same speed as before the new bars and maybe I'm getting numb, but I didn't feel a major difference. I thought I did in the morning on a long curve, but I'm not sure. Maybe 32 to 35 and 21 to 22 isn't a big enough difference.

Platinum WS6

iTrader: (6)

Sounds like you need the Koni SA's then...the sway bars are plenty big enough now

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

The Bilstein shocks are the best real affordable shock but the Koni shocks are going to be quite a bit better when it comes to handling due to the adjustability and better valving.

What sway bars did you end up going with? There is much more to sway bar design then just the measurement of the outer diameter of the material used to build it so I wouldn't necessarily harp on those numbers too much to compare your aftermarket sway bars to the factory ones.

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

I went with Strano hollow bars. I believe I can perhaps take a corner faster on paper but the body roll feels the same, so I don't feel much more confidence (not that I would really push it on highway corkscrew on ramp, just a small example).