WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

Long story short I bought a 9'' locally but its only a 3 channel. Decided to go ahead and delete abs and bought SJM's kit. After weeks of fine tuning my rear I get it installed and over the weekend I started ABS delete kit. Those 4 lines in engine bay were a nightmare. Thought I had perfect flares for what I could do inside an engine bay and not on a bench... well, I guess not. I bled the brakes last night and I'm leaking at a 4 lines flared. The kit worked great in fact the two lines I had to flare coming off of PV and LL never leaked a drop.

I have a feeling I am not the only one that had this problem. I am pretty sure I'm going to have to buy pre-flared lines and match them to the stock lines and run them like that. I had no problem flaring the brake lines on the rear end because they were done on my bench. When I did the lines in the engine bay I just pulled my fuel lines out of the way and bent them straight up so I could work perfectly with them then re bent them back to factory. I know it doesn't get any easier than that beside actually pulling the engine.

So, any ideas? I really want my car back on the road and this abs delete and line flaring is holding me up... a month without my ta is killing me and racing season is around the corner.

Guitar

iTrader: (9)

The flares are hard as **** to do. I did mine and they leaked, took it to a shop and they fixed it as well as possible. I think it may leak a drop a month now lol, not much but it's a serious PITA to do unless engine is out of the car so I hear. I'll be redoing mine when it is.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

The lines are hard. Have to get the perfect flare. Hopefully using a good flare tool. I had only one leak on me. RE flared and all was good.

WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

I think I have decided I am going to pull all the factory lines and buy pre-flared lines and just bend them how I want and find a way to strap them down (maybe electrical straps with a self tapping screw?) It's just not worth the hassle flaring, bleeding, no good, flaring again, etc. Plus trying to keep the brake fluid from dripping on everything in the car is a nightmare when its leaking like that.

WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

So if I run new brake lines throughout the car instead of running two brake lines to the rear can't I just run a single line to the rear? Considering the car is technically a 3 channel now. I'm guessing that line would have to be 5/16 though right?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Swagelock. You're welcome.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...bs-delete.html

WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

Want to do it right. Once I go back home to VA when my military endeavor is over they do visual vehicle inspections.. they see that **** on there and they are going to fail my and I'm back to square one (trust me read you're post before I even installed the SJM). I have already run my two front lines with copper nickel alloy, which is easy as hell. But I am running low on line got about 12 ft left and I don't think its enough to do two lines to the back. So back to my original question. How thick is the brake line in a 3 channel car that goes back to the rear and splices into two brake lines? Is it just one 3/16 line or do I need the next size up? (5/16?)

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Well good luck with it then. If an inspection place will fail you because of a swagelock fitting I'd say you got it pretty rough. Glad I don't have to put up with that, I'd probably go nuts. And that's the irony of life and how common sense no longer prevails. A functioning car with a swagelock won't pass an inspection but if you showed up with flared but leaking fittings you probably would. It's insanity.