Cody Miller

I have a stock '98 Z28 M6 with t-tops. I have heard that Sub Frame Connectors will reduce rattles and squeaks by stiffening up the chassis. In further research I have found that not all Sub Frame Connectors are "true" sub frame connectors and don't actually do anything.

So a couple of things I am wondering. Between a midwest chassis, a BMR, and an UMI 3 point bolt in, what SFC is the best? If I got the UMI, the bolt-in would just be temporarily. Keep in mind, I just want to get rid of the squeaks and rattles. The car is a DD and maybe does 5 quarter mile runs a year.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

It might get rid of them.. but if it doesn't then don't be suprised. Some people get more rattles. Rattles and squeaks are caused by lots of things.

Not that i wouldnt put on subframe connectors. I like them for the jackpoints. Makes jacking the car up much more convenient.

Cody Miller

They are a relatively inexpensive part, so I figure it is worth a try. And even if it doesn't get rid of the rattle, I like knowing that the chassis is strengthened. Any idea which of the three that I listed would be the best? Or if there are any others that would be better?

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

the SLP weld-in can be bolted (there is a thread buried somewhere on this site that lists the bolt sizes) and are a good bit cheaper then the UMI's.

they are the ones I have always planned to install myself.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I have BMR boxed, and a buddy bought the Midwest chassis versions. I like them both.

alans02z

iTrader: (9)

MWC is the people to see for Chassis/suspension.

Cody Miller

I think I'm leaning towards the MWC. They seem to be getting good reviews....does anyone know if they ship to Canada? If they don't, that will automatically scratch them from my list haha.

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

UMI boxed weld on subframes are beefy and make the car really rigid feeling. I have had the same style on 4 different fbody cars and I would put them on the next one I own if that day ever comes.

98ws666

i have the UMI 2-point tubular bolt in. They eliminated all my t-top moans and dash creaks. Greatly stiffened the feel of the car. Will weld in eventually.

Everyone says 3-point weld in or bust, but im very happy with mine. It's a street car.
If you get bolt-in though be sure to retorque everything after a couple days. I noticed a rattling and creaks coming back, but the front bolts that mount to flatbar had just worked themselves out a bit. Threadlocker fixed that.

Edit: Also if you can fford it go ahead and get a swaybar set. I've just got the front hollow 32mm from Strano and it made just as big of a difference in feel of the car as the SFCs did IMO.

Cody Miller

I didn't know they made a 2 point bolt-in. The bolt-in greatly appeals to me because I figure I can always bolt-in for now and could probably do it myself, and then if I wanted to, weld-in at a later point.....I could be look at this wrong, but why does it look like the MWC ones run laterally (side to side) on the car and all the other 2 point ones run longitudinally (front to back).

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Midwest runs the same as others just inward some. The others grab the lower control arm bolt and the Midwest grab the actual rear subframe.

Cody Miller

Oh okay. Now that I looked at the picture again I see it. It is just hard to see on the web site.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

They are legit, and priced well iirc.

98ws666

You could absolutely DIY (assuming your LCA bolts dont fight you), took me all of 10 min, on a lift with air tools.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Honestly any of those option will work well for what you are purchasing the subframe connectors for. We offer our BMR subframe connectors in both a boxed and tubular version. I honestly prefer the boxed version over the tubular version because they will give you many jacking points on the car once they are installed.

We can definitely ship to Canada for you so if you decide one the BMR subframe connectors just let me know and we can get you taken care of.

BMR tubular subframe connectors (SFC004)


BMR boxed subframe connectors (SFC001)

Cody Miller

Yeah.....and I guess having to weld them really isn't that much of an inconvenience. I'm sure I can find someone to weld them in there for a fairly reasonable price. I like the fact that they are true sub frame connectors and not lower control arm connectors. I'll have to find out what it costs to have them shipped to Canada (assuming they do ship to Canada).

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

What is the consensus/opinions on midwest chassis's solution which attaches to the actual subframes? I know they mention that the mounting points of other SFCs dont really make them subframe connectors. But are they pretty much providing the same rigitity?

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

The MWC connectors are actual subframe conectors.

If you look at the design of the chassis you will see that the LCA box is nowhere near the actual "frame" of ther car. The other styles bolt to the outer side of the LCA bracket and run along the pinch weld which is already the strongest point of a uni-body car, some designs won't actually even contact the front subframe and will just attach to the floor crossbrace. Designs like this should be called a "jacking rail", not a "subframe connector" because it doesnt actually connect the front and rear subframes directly.

MWC will ship to CA no problem, and we have the connectors in stock.

98ws666

I'm no expert, but "true SFC" or not the LCA based design absolutely improved chassis stiffness considerably. Not trying to argue or say they are superior, but they are obviously more than "jacking rails"....

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

That one went right over your head. You and him are saying the same thing.