5_litre_eater

My Primary goal is to build a hot street car. She will probably never see the race track; and if she does, it will be maybe once or twice ever. I just want the car to handle exceptionally well on the street. I already have Strano springs and koni adjustables, so I'm looking to add to that. When I did my spring/shock install, I noticed a lot of the bushings weren't in the greatest shape and the ball joints need attention, so here is what I'm thinking about doing:

UMI Upper and Lower non-adjustable A-arms
Moog upper ball joints
UMI Sway Bars
UMI adjustable PHB
UMI non-adjustable rear LCA's
UMI adjustable torque arm (not sure which model to get..)
Bolt-on subframe connectors (not sure here either)
New rear bump stops
18x9.5 wheels w/ 275/35/18 tires

The main reason I want the adjustable PBH and TA is because I've read that they are needed after lowering the car, to position the rear axle correctly. My concern about this is that I might not be able to get them adjusted properly, or do frequent adjustments if they go out of adjustment. I don't have any good performance shops in my area that could help me with this. Do these parts come with installation and adjustment instructions?

Based on my goals, could you recommend anything else I should look at? Or is there anything on my list that might be overkill for my application? Do I really need an adjustable PHB and TA if I'm not racing?

Thanks for any help you can throw my way!

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

If you were interested in BMR parts we would be more than happy to throw together a custom package for you that would take care of all your suspension needs without breaking the bank.

We definitely recommend using a adjustable torque arm and panhard bar on a lowered vehicle. The adjustable torque arm will allow you to get the pinion angle back where it needs to be and the panhard bar will allow you to center the rear end up underneath the car. Once you adjust these two parts initially you shouldn't need to do it again unless you change the ride height of the vehicle.

You have everything covered pretty well with your parts list. I would definitely recommend using a adjustable torque arm and panhard bar since your car is lowered.

JD_AMG

Make sure the bushings on the rear control arms are not poly(see binding), use either rubber or rod-joint style. You can get away with the front upper control arms being poly, but you still have to worry about stiction.
While an aftermarket torque arm is certainly not necessary for a good handling setup, if you choose to get one get a full length one, not the short one (they can cause brake hop). The adjustable PHB will center the rear end, another thing that is not needed, but your rear should be off center after lowering which can cause passenger side wheel/tire to rub the inner fender.
The PHB and torque arm are extremely easy to install and adjust, do not take the car to a mechanic to do this, it will be a waste of money and they will likely screw things up.
Also for best handling use 17" wheels. 18s are not bad but guys are running faster with 17s back to back (lighter wheel all else equal). They will ride better as well.

5_litre_eater

A few more questions--
To adjust the PBH and TA, does the suspension have to be loaded? IE not on jack stands?

It seems like all suspension components have rod ends or poly bushings.. I don't see any that come with rubber bushings... I always thought poly bushings were best for a street car?

I'm not dead-set on getting UMI components, I'm open to suggestions.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

No, poly causes bind it is only for things that move straight up and down but everything on the rear suspension moves in an arc so solid poly wants to be avoided when possible, I forget who it is but one them offers rubber bushing for the rear control arms, for the panhard bar it's less of an issue but if you can afford it, the other option is the Roto joints from UMI from what i've read they are supposed to be superior to rod ends.

5_litre_eater

I'm definitely glad I posted this now! I had no idea about rubber bushings being favorable. Do these parts usually come with installation and adjustment instructions? I'm positive I could install them with no instructions, but I just want to play it safe. This is the first 3 link suspension car I have worked on.

UMI Tech

Good morning.

We can build a custom package for whatever parts you decide you need.

You'll get a ton of opinions on here from many different people. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have.

UMI is your choice for ultra premium Made-In-USA of US materials suspension products.

later

ramey

5_litre_eater

What are your thoughts on rubber bushings vs your roto joints for street use? And also, when you make adjustments to the PHB, TA, and lower A-arm, does the suspension need to be loaded, IE wheels on the ground?

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

The suspension should definitely be loaded when you are adjusting both the panhard bar and the torque arm. You want to adjust these part with the vehicle in the same position as it would be when you are driving.

We have rubber bushings for some of our parts. The majority of are parts are sold with polyurethane bushings. It really just comes down to what your plans and goals are with the car to what will style of part will be optimal for you. Since you are mainly concerned with handling I would recommend either rod ended parts or rubber bushings because you will not see the bind with them like you would with polyurethane bushings.

5_litre_eater

What about your front lower a-arms? Is that something an alignment shop would adjust, or is that something I adjust once installed?

Sorry for all the questions, this is new to me!

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

i strongly advise against rear poly/poly LCAs. made my ride on the street like hell... felt like my rear was slamming everytime I hit any bump.

I went with boxed stock LCAs and moog bushings... SO MUCH better

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

If you swapped out the front lower a-arms you would need to take your vehicle to an alignment shop and get the vehicle aligned.

UMI Tech

Rubber bushings are going to be the softest and quietest while Roto-Joints are going to offer awesome performance and articulation. We have Roto-Joints in any of our cars destined for auto-x or road race environments.

When you make adjustments it's always best to have the car on all fours just like you're going to be driving it. That allows you to see exactly what you're going to end up with. When tightening poly, it's also best to final tighten at actual ride height. With Roto-Joints or rod ends it doesn't matter due to how the product is designed.

ramey

5_litre_eater

Awesome, thanks for the info. As far as Torque Arms, which one would I need for QTP LT headers and a true dual setup? I'm thinking the package you have for kooks headers should work, since I've seen a lot of the QTP and Kooks mid pipes are interchangeable.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

If it's handling you are after, then I'd skip any panhard bar for a Watts link. As for the sway bars, I have both my hollow and UMI's solid's. I used to make solid and decided to drop them because for all the money folks spend on upgrading this and that to Chrome-Moly to save a couple of pounds I kind of thought it was nuts to add that much weight in a solid sway bar. But the UMI's are a few bucks less and well balanced, which is why I carry them as an option.

Those are the two things you really want to upgrade handling wise. Of course you need decent bushings and such, and there are any number of ways to do those via all new arms, or new parts in stock arms, or upgrading CERTAIN arms. All of which we could discuss if you want. Here's a hint: I'd do some arms, some bushings (and none with press in aftermarket urethane either like Energy or Prothane).

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Be aware that Roto-Joints are NOT quiet, they bang just like heim joints.

I take my lower control arms off when not tracking the car, they drive me nucking futs.

Yes I tightened them, yes I have tried multiple types of grease even the grease UMI sells.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Stock front lower control arms are fine, spend money elsewhere.

5_litre_eater

I was primarily going to to the a-arms because I need new ball joints. I've read it's a pain in the *** to get the bottoms out, especially without air tools. For what the shop would charge me to replace them, I could justify buying new a-arms.

5_litre_eater

Thanks for the advice, Sam!

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

What Strano said, plus when you goto 18" wheels, you can then run Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires, which I have found quite awesome on all fours, are a top rated Ultra High Performance Summer tire by Consumer Reports, and come with a tread wear warranty to boot! This was *the* reason I went to 18", since that tire did not come in the 17".

The OP said nothing yet about what tire is being considered and nobody asked -- that's another key to the handling equation...