Unknown User

I've got a '99 WS6 and I have plans for suspension/chassis mods and am wondering what will make the biggest difference and if they should be done in a certain order. I already have KYB adjustable suspension and am planning to add adjustable LCA's and Pandhard bar, LCA relocators, Sub Frame Connectors and Torque arm.

I'll be building the car over the winter but will be hitting the track here in a few weeks to get some "before build" times and was wondering which of these will help me out the most? car is pretty stock, has exhaust, ported MAF/TB and lid, it's an auto.

apollyon_01

Drag strip?

fleetmgr

Yeah, drag or AutoX? Completely different setups.

Unknown User

you guys are quick!! just straight line fun for me...

more specific on my options:

1. Adjustable LCA's and adjustable Panhard bar
2. Adjustable LCA's and LCA relocation brackets
3. Sub-frame connectors and LCA relocation brackets (using stock LCA's)
4. Sub-Frame Connectors and adjustable LCA's

I'll have all of the above at some point but for now, I don't want to fork out the money for all of it, just whatever of those will help the most and then I'll get the rest over the winter build period. gears will be a big thing as I am pretty sure I have a 2.73 rear. I haven't checked the code but cruising at 60mph, I'm around 1800~ RPM on 285/40/18's

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Unknown User,

In the interest of budget, I would stray away from the adjustable LCA. Unless you put your car on the alignment rack and your thrust angle is out of spec, or you need to fit a large slick - you won't need the adjustable.

With that said, I'd go to LCA and relocation brackets. Then I'd throw on and adjustable panhard bar to center your rear axle, then a short adjustable tunnel mount torque arm, then subframe connectors.

Doing the lower control arms first will fix any deflection caused by the old rubber bushings, and the relocation brackets will provide forward traction so you can really plant the rear tires when you launch. When you lower your car, you'll need an adjustable panhard bar to center the axle due to the arc-like pattern the panhard bar travels on. The short torque arm will allow pinion angle adjustment, remove the nose of the arm away from the trans and will also help with your launch consistency. You're car didn't come with subframe connectors, so I'd look for that stability once you have addressed all the issues the factory pieces cause in drag racing.

Hope that helps!

Zac

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

If you are going to do LCA relocation brackets you will absolutely want adjustable LCAs to reset the square of the rearend. Not only that the stock rubber bushing LCAs will not be helping matters in the wheel hop department, which will yield some broken rearend parts and/or driveshaft. Adjustable PHB will be a good option as well at some point, but if you are not lowered then the oem unit will be last on the list. Shocks will be the single most important item you can invest in for chassis tuning and performance.

Give us a call... we have the lightest weight and best quality components you will find, along with the guaranteed lowest prices and best tech help you will find anywhere!

Unknown User

I've already got adjustable shocks and am thinking I want to go with adjustable, well, everything. Is it worth getting adjustable LCA's without the relocation brackets right away?

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

These cars are close, but not always perfect. One thing about adjustable is if you ever need it, it is there. Yea a non-adjustable part may be a bit less cost, but when you need that adjustability and don't have it you will kick yourself. You will need relocators at some point and I would never use a non-adjustable LCA with relocators... your asking for alignment problems there.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Our relocation brackets accommodate factory length lower control arms. You can put the arm in the lowest hole location without the axle shifting fore/aft. This relocation bracket modification kind of goes hand-in-hand with a new lower control arm. They both have advantages as their own entity, but work best together.

If you're set on adjustable control arms, just go for a good made in the USA piece. Suspension is not something you want to cheap out on. If you're not lowered, I would do the LCA first, then relocation bracket.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Just another point of consideration here, if you plan on street driving the car still, I would stay away from rod ends. They are harsh and noisy and tend to wear out quickly on the street. Stick with a good polyurethane bushing end to maintain ride quality. Rod ends are great for racecars, not so much for street cars