1998 t/a

iTrader: (2)

What in the hell is the difference between a tunnel brace torque arm and a torque arm with the relocation bracket? I need to pick up something for my car soon. I already got rear control arms coming. Trying to keep it on a budget though.

miles99z28

One is relocated right by the tail shaft of the tranny. One mounts on the tunnel brace location.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

The Torque arm with relocation bracket replaces your factory transmission crossmember, and relocates the nose of the Torque Arm off of the transmission. It mounts with 1.25" tubing into a polyurethane bushing. The Tubing allows consistent and easy rotation and movement front to back as desired for handling applications, and still be beneficial to drag racing. This set-up generally clears almost all exhaust systems.

The Tunnel mount Torque Arm mounts about halfway down the tunnel to a crossmember. The crossmember can include a driveshaft loop. This set up uses polyurethane bushing halves like what is installed in our control arms. Then 2 tabs with different mounting positions mount the nose of the bushing to the bushing on the crossmember. This allows quick and rapid instant center changes when more forward traction is desired. This Torque arm is generally oriented for drag racing, and is a cost effective replacement for standard street driving.

If you have any more questions or want to go over the torque arms in more detail, and figure out which arm is suited best for your needs I'd be glad to help!

1998 t/a

iTrader: (2)

I'm a street/strip car and I heard the main goal is to get the torque arm off the trans and strengthen it. I've heard the tunnel mount causes a little noise so I've been leaning to the relocation bracket and a non adj. Torque arm

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

For a street/strip car a tunnel mounted torque arm would be a very good option. They are generally a bit cheaper and work very well on the street and at the track. Getting the torque arm off the transmission is important so you don't break the tailshaft housing of the transmission. It especially important for cars that will see the track quite a bit or make a decent bit of power. Tunnel mounted torque arms are generally a little noisier than a full length torque arm and torque arm relocation crossmember. Our BMR tunnel mounted torque arms have taken care most of that extra noise by designing our tunnel mounted torque arms to use a full size polyurethane torque arm bushing. This allows you to have the performance of the better without all the extra noise.

If you do decide to go with a full length torque arm and torque arm relocation crossmember make sure you get an adjustable torque or you won't be able to use the instant center adjustment on the crossmember. As you move the front mounting point up and down (adjust the instant center) of the torque arm on the crossmember it will change the pinion angle and the only way to be able to adjust the pinion angle to compensate is with an adjustable torque arm.

We would be more than happy to help you out in any way we can so just let us know.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Of course anytime you use Poly anywhere in your suspension it won't be as "quiet" as if you had stock rubber in. The fact of the matter is you're putting performance parts on a car that will have multiple duties, so there will be some trade offs. But it certainly won't rattle you to death or make you hate driving your car.

The Tunnel Mounted arm is definitely more cost effective. But if you decide towards the full length, I definitely recommend adjustable.

1998 t/a

iTrader: (2)

I'm not lowering the car or ditching my 10 bolt so I'm not seeing the value in the adjustable arm...I know everyone is saying ditch the rear but I'm just not spending 3k on a rear for a car that sees the track 2 to 3 times a year and is driven less than 3k miles a year.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

The value in the adjustable torque arm is that it will allow you to use the different mounting points on the crossmember to adjust the instant center. If you don't get an adjustable torque arm you will need to find what set of mounting points on the crossmember offer the best pinion angle with the least driveline vibration and mount the torque arm there and leave it.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

They both will be noisy, and id recommend adjustable even if you think you dont need it.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

I have this conversation with customers and local young guys looking to start upgrading their vehicle and always ALWAYS suggest to purchase adjustable items now because you will be buying it later on.

Not to mention purchase from a company that uses quality heim-joints. Cheaper suspension items generally means cheaper quality components.

1998 t/a

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I understand the adjustable is only about 100 more. I'm just ignorant on how to do the adjustments....I could always learn lol.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Any non-adjustable part I ever bought has since been replaced. Stupid to buy stuff twice. Learn from someone else's mistake.

1998 t/a

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I think you quys talked me into adj. Now the real question is...Midwest chasis, BMRSALES2 and UMISales; whose gonna give me the best deal!!!��✊

Z28MJ

Any guidance for us newbs on how to determine which cross-member hole to use?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I think the middle ish hole is stock. Im running a BMR unit with no issues.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

There is no blanket answer as to what is best. Every car is different, so every setup is different. The best advice I can offer is to call me and tell me about your combo and I can help suggest where to go on adjustments. Same goes for pricing, give me a call and I can go over options for you and put figures together. Keep in mind, street cars and rod ends don't go well together. Unless you like rattles and noises, loose fillings etc

Z28MJ

Yeah, I totally understand that there would be no blanket answer. Time to do some research, cause there has to be a thread somewhere around here with it all explained. I would rather know why I am using a certain setup than just being told to use it.