Defined1983

iTrader: (20)

So I was in the middle of removing my front driver's side A-Arm and took out the cotter pin and removed the nut. Now the bolt won't come off. I've removed all the other bolts but the 3 cotter pin bolts are giving me problems. Can't get any of the 3 out.

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

You have to whack them "flush" on the head and it should break the seal..

I have a special 2.5 lb flat faced smooth mallet I use for them..

I also use it for most all suspension installs.

Defined1983

iTrader: (20)

FINALLY got one off. My rubber mallet sucks apparently. Had to use another tool lol

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

lol rubber won't cut it

Defined1983

iTrader: (20)

yeah haha. thank you sir! got it all off now

scj

iTrader: (89)

They make a tool specifically for this called a pickle fork. If you use the above mention method of hitting the top portion of the threaded part to free it loose you risk damaging the threads or mushrooming the head of the threaded shaft if the joints are stuck on there pretty good. It may work sometimes, but not always. Always good to have the correct tool.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Pickle forks can damage the boots on the ball joints and tie rod ends though.

I just leave the castle nut on the end of the stud so it is flush with the top, and then give the whole thing a good whack with a small 2-3 lb sledge. Works every time and very low risk of damaging the threads as the nut protects them. Also keeps things from flying apart or dropping since the nut is still on there.

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Bingo, forgot to add to have the nut on flush so there is more surface area.

The key is to hit it flush center, I also use a smooth faced hammer so it will not leave any marks on the bolt/nut

If you hit it flush center it will pop out on the first try

Hitting it at a slight angle is when you damage it

Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

I have a small hammer, not a claw hammer but a little bigger that I hit the side of the knuckle that it's bolted too. 2-3 good whacks and it will come right out, that parts cast iron so nothing is being damaged.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Bingo!


That's why most spindles have a flat spot on them, near where the b/j bolts in....

FirstGen F-Body

iTrader: (3)

i use a pry bar on the arm and BFH the knuckle.
one time i was putting in new lower Aarms on a 2000 neon and it was so easy, all i needed was a 2.5ft pry bar and 2 fingers.