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Lower Ball Joint too large???

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Old 05-01-2016, 09:03 AM
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Default Lower Ball Joint too large???

So it looks like I will have to pay a shop to install the new bushings and ball joint in the Lower A-Arm. I got the Moog lower ball joint part number K6145T. I put it up against the hole in the A-Arm that it will go into and it looks a good bit bigger in diameter than the hole. Is this normal? I searched for some threads on this and all I got was that this was a "pain in the ***". Did I get the right ball joint? Is there a better one to get?

Another question. Due to the weird angles that the A-Arms are, I am debating on going back to the shop that I paid to remove the old bushings and ball joints or having the Chevy dealership put them on. I am guessing that whatever tools Chevy has will be better to press in new bushings and ball joints. But before I do that, I need to figure out if using the Moog ball joint I currently have is too big and will break my stock A-Arms.
Old 05-01-2016, 10:54 AM
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Sounds normal to me
Old 05-01-2016, 11:44 AM
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I've read that Moog oversizes that ball joint .002 in. to compensate for enlargement after so many miles. The shop that pressed in my lower ball joints said that that one was a pain in the butt to do. Hehe, that's why I didn't even attempt to do them. The oversize probably isn't necessary but oh well
Old 05-01-2016, 12:28 PM
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Just looks a bit more than .002" though. Maybe I'm being paranoid? But I do know that I won't attempt it with the bushing and ball joint kit I rented from Advance. Now I'm just debating on trying to have the dealership press them in or go back to the shop I used before. Only reason I am thinking about dealership is because hopefully they still have the J-tools or whatever to do the ball joints and bushings.
Old 05-01-2016, 05:18 PM
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Friend and I used the Autozone rental kit to press my Moog joints into my lower arms which had never seen a joint replacement before. Yes, a nuisance, but they go in.
Old 05-01-2016, 06:26 PM
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Got the bushings on the lower A-Arm on relatively easy. I'll make an attempt on the ball joint, its just that the weekend is over and I want to try to freeze the ball joint in my deep freezer for a couple days. I am honestly worried that it won't be enough.

Also, is there a trick to getting the boot on? For one, the metal ring around the boot has a smaller diameter than the ball joint (another reason I want to freeze the ball joint). But does the boot go on the ball joint after it is pressed in or before?
Old 05-01-2016, 09:46 PM
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I honestly don't remember.

Deep freeze the joint and then heat the arm up a lot around the ball joint hole. The combination usually helps the parts go together easier, but you do have to work somewhat quickly before the arm cools/joint warms up.
Old 05-02-2016, 06:26 AM
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I've done such things when working on jet engines and putting on bearings and races with very close tolerances. I was able to put in the new bushings in the A-Arm after much fighting with the rental tool (really need about five hands to deal with that, lol). Not sure I can put the whole arm in the oven. I guess I could get a heat gun and heat up the end of the arm to do this. Will heating up the arm mess up the primer/paint that I put on the arm?
Old 05-02-2016, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Darth Cypher
Got the bushings on the lower A-Arm on relatively easy. I'll make an attempt on the ball joint, its just that the weekend is over and I want to try to freeze the ball joint in my deep freezer for a couple days. I am honestly worried that it won't be enough.

Also, is there a trick to getting the boot on? For one, the metal ring around the boot has a smaller diameter than the ball joint (another reason I want to freeze the ball joint). But does the boot go on the ball joint after it is pressed in or before?
The b/j presses in first, than the boot slips over it. Both the b/j and the boot have to be "tight fits", so they don't move around after installation.

I R&R the ball joints in my '96, but it was a number of years ago. I did do it at home, however, using a big, beefy, OTC ball joint installation tool. And yes, freezing the b/j before installing will definitely help it go in.....
Old 05-02-2016, 08:59 AM
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For the boot, take it to Lowes or Home Depot and find a PVC pipe with the same diameter as the flat area of the boot. Cut yourself a 2" section and hammer it on gently, or use the ball joint tool and it will pop right on.
Old 05-03-2016, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Spartan7
For the boot, take it to Lowes or Home Depot and find a PVC pipe with the same diameter as the flat area of the boot. Cut yourself a 2" section and hammer it on gently, or use the ball joint tool and it will pop right on.
Good suggestion! However, if you have a ball joint tool, one of the sleeves that comes with it, might also work.
Old 05-05-2016, 06:36 AM
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Looks like my worries were unfounded. I could have done it myself by freezing the ball joint but I opted to have the shop press them in. No issues, no snags, pressed right in like normal. Used the rental tool to press the boot on real easy. I got all my bushings and ball joints on now so I am ready to build back up once I return the rental tool and rent the inner tie rod tool. Thanks everyone for the responses and advice.



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