Hypforlife32

iTrader: (5)

whats up guys, i have a 99 fbody turbo th400 car. I need new front brakes, 90 percent street driven. i had some sort of ebay cross drilled and slotted rotors with im guessing a cheap pad. The fade was unreal, rotors torched and cracked. I just upgraded the rear and switched to strange rear drag brakes but looking for a decent front rotors/brake setup.

skinny radial up front - old brakes wouldnt even come close to locking it up.

Currently looking at centric premium front rotors.

possibly hawk street race pads? just trying to get an idea of what to get. too many pads to choose from.

Chris Paveglio

iTrader: (2)

There are loads of threads on brake selection, one was active just a few days ago. What kind of speeds are you trying to stop from? Skinnies aren't going to have lots of contact patch to handle a 150mph street stop, no matter what disk/pad you have. I assume you already realize this though.

Hypforlife32

iTrader: (5)

I know it wont stop on a dime or anything near that 150mph or so. Just looking to have a set of brakes that work because my other ones didnt do a damn thing.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Why not go with the Strange brake kit up front also?

Carl at CRP

iTrader: (9)

CRP has the entire Strange line of products on sale.

Before deciding Who to purchase from click this link and search the name of the sponsor You are considering buying from. The search button is on the top right of every section including this one.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls1tech-sponsor-feedback-70/

Do You want to purchase from a sponsor that has been banned and has an inconsistent record of keeping their customers happy? The choice is Yours!

Carl

pdxmotorhead

Stop tech self some good performance pads. rotors, etc and Rock auto carries them for a lot of applications.. I put a set on my BMW for 400 bucks. (Rotors and pads.)

I do a LOT of road race car support, Slotted rotors for high stress driving are a good thing, drilled ones are not. They WILL crack. (Even the 3000 dollar drilled Ferrari ones crack.. )

Slots/holes only help when the pad reaches sustained high temperatures (Repeated braking), for cold stops a standard solid surface rotor is usually fine.

For those that don't know,,, The slots and holes don't cool the rotor they allow the gasses from the superheated surface material of the pad to get away and prevent the pad from sort of hydroplaning off the rotor surface (FADE). I've mounted rotors on a race car with a Flir thermal cam and the differences in temperature that I could detect were small. (This was with same caliper/pads/top hat on a wildwood setup using a solid disk and a disk with slots and holes. )

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Glad we could answer some of your questions and if you have anymore please don't hesitate to call again. Oh and enjoy your recent Midwest Chassis fabricated nine inch, you made the correct choice.

AutomagicLS1

iTrader: (18)

In my old car I ran hawk pads with generic auto parts store blank rotors they worked great. The hawk pads wear fast but they did a fantastic job getting that heavy turd stopped

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

I tracked my car for a couple of years and just used white box rotors with a race pad. You don't want a race pad for the street. They require heat to work and give no stopping power until everything is hot.