FAST LS1

iTrader: (2)

After doing a lot of searching I've decided on a list of components I'd like to use to upgrade the suspension. I'd like to get this "plan" set now before I start since it will be an ongoing project as I have time and money to upgrade to the new components.

First I'll be getting 17x9.5 wheels & tires soon as I need new tires and might as well upgrade them instead of wasting money on 16x8 tires. Also all of my suspension is stock except for BMR tubular weld in SFC's. The car is my daily driver and I'd like to keep it civil enough that it's not bone jarring, but firm enough to handle much better than stock. I can handle stiff just not to the point where things are vibrating off the car. I drag race regularly and hit up the autocross a few times a year. I'd like some suspension adjustability if I'm going to go thru all the trouble and cost of changing out this much of the suspension.

1)LCA's, I'm thinking rod/rod like trackbird sells with the good rod ends. After searching it seems they are quiet enough with the good rod ends. My car is already loud, so as long as it's not a constant squeeking/rattling sound the exhaust won't drown out it should be fine.
2)NO LCA relocation brackets. I think with an adjustable shock I could keep any traction problems under control.
3)PHR, rod/rod trackbird or equivilant again.
4)Torque arm, haven't looked into since it's not as critical as far as I can tell for what I want to do.
5)Sway Bars, Strano hollow bar front 35mm, 21 solid or 22 hollow rear bar? urethane bushings.
6)Ground Control Coil Overs front & rear. Approximate 500lb front 150lb rear springs.
7)KYB AGX or Koni DA shocks. Want something adjustable but not extremely expensive. If the KYB's aren't good enough I guess I could splurge and get the Koni's, but I need some input on this one. Something adjustable for the dragstrip/autox/daily driving.

If there's anything I've forgetten please fill it in. I've also listed the mods in the order that I think would be best to buy/install, if not which order?

Eugenio_SS

iTrader: (2)

Plan looks good, and it seems to give a good balance.
Yet, notice that the Strano hollow bar is 36mm.
I have the 500/150 setup w/ 35/21 and Koni DA on all 4.
It's a well balanced setup.
As for the shocks, the Koni DA aren't cheap.
Going Koni DA (front) and Koni SA (rear) is more than enough.
You can also consider getting Koni SA on all 4, if price is an issue... but I wouldn't go with the KYB... another alternative is to have custom valved shocks that will suit the spring rates.
On another note, if you go with GC-coilovers and get Koni's, you'll have to remove the shock hats to install the GCs.
Last, but not least, TA can become an issue for traction and brake-wheel-hop... especially if running hard such as AutoX.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

LCA's, I have run a rod end style for a long time. They will eventually wear and need replaced, that goes for any rod ends. I just wanted to mention it. Some guys get 2-4 years out of a set, some guys (with more track time and such) will get less. They will work fine for what you seem to be setting up.

Relocation brackets. I don't run them, but it is not a bad idea to be able to "level" the rear control arms. I have not needed to do so, but it can be beneficial.

PHR. I usually do this mod first. It can really help the car feel positive in corners and it is a "cheap" mod (compared to many), but you can go in either direction).

Torque arm. I'm still running a stock one. I considered the non adjustable Edelbrock version, or LG's version and a few others. Maybe one day I'll change mine. Until then, I have no real insight into them (nothing first hand to add).

Sams 35/22 hollow sway bar package would/should work well. I run the ST 35/25 solid combo. I like it, but it is a "bit much" for most peoples use (that is a whole bunch of rear bar). If I were doing it over (or when I do), I'd probably do Sams hollow bars.

The Ground control stuff is fine, I had it on another car of mine and liked it. They make good stuff, but order through a dealer, Ground Control is known for being very slow to ship things (call Sam for those when you get the bars).

AGX or Koni DA's. That is a big difference in price and shocks. I have heard that the AGX's are not very well suited to our cars. The valving is considered by some to be "off". I've not used them, so, I'm passing this along second hand. DA's...I love mine. But, they are overkill for 99% of the cars out there (and maybe for me as well). I like them and they work great. But a set of Koni SA's or Bilstien revalves (custom set for your springs) may do what you need and save you some cash. DA's are quite expensive and the cost benefit ratio may not be there for you. Koni SA's will allow you to soften the front rebound for drag use and add it back for corners. That may be all you need. Only your wallet can decide. As I said, I love my DA's, but they are a bunch of money and a bunch of shock (and then you have much to tune, not that it's hard to do). So, it's not a bad choice, but revalves or SA's may be a better option (and save you mod money).

My thoughts.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I guess I type too slow, Eugenio beat me to it.

FAST LS1

iTrader: (2)

http://www.stranoparts.com/frontpage.php
It's listed as 35mm front and 22mm rear, both hollow. I noticed other people called it both 35 and 36mm while searching.

Beside the price difference between the KYB's and Koni's I also didn't like that you had to remove the shock hats on the Koni's with the GC kit. I did a search and people that installed the Koni's with GC ended up having to make their own tools just to get them dissassembled/reassembled. Seemed pretty involved since I doubt I would even do the front spring/shock assembly, no spring compressor.

Thanks for the input, guess I'll just have to save a little longer before I get shocks.

FAST LS1

iTrader: (2)

The relocation brakets just look bad to me, and the ground clearance looks even worse. It would be easy for me to weld them on, but unless I get wheel hop at the strip I doubt I will ever put them on. I don't plan to ever lower the car more than 1.5" and will probably raise it up at the track to prevent the problem from ever occuring.

The shocks just have me worried because I know they play a major roll in how the car rides. I'm worried about it being too harsh or soft depending on how I get them valved. $1200 for the DA's is just too much for me . If I can get a revalved shock to work for for all of my needs and still handle well, I'd much rather save that money and have coilovers with shocks for less than just the DA's cost. The Front Koni/Rear Bilsteins look nice but it's getting into the expensive range for me. What exactly can you adjust on the Koni SA's?

Thanks for the help guys

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

You can adjust rebound. Which has an impact on how the car handles transitions. It won't change the total roll of the car in a corner, but it will change the rate that the car rolls (body roll). This can make the car feel much more responsive and stable. I'd consider the revalves or the Koni SA's. That is why I was surprised when you said "Koni DA's or AGX's?". That is a "huge" price difference. I'd not use the KYB's myself, but again, that is based on what I've heard from reputable sources (I've not tried them). Revalves may be the best way to go and there are no adjustments to "get wrong". It's a "safe bet" that you'll get good performance out of them.

BillS

iTrader: (13)

If you are not limited by classing, I would add a pair of Global West upper front a-arms with the Del-u-lum bushings. They made the biggest improvement to my car after the 315 race tires and good shocks.
also they did not effect ride harshness or vibration in any way. They allow me up to -2.5 deg camber at 1LE ride height avoiding the problems both front and rear when you lose wheel travel by lowering,so I never need relocation brackets, and I can maintain my ground clearance for my SLP headders.