StangEaterSS

iTrader: (41)

I have a BMR adj. TQ arm mounted on a Moser 12 bolt rearend. The top bolts that go into the rearend seem to come loose quite often. I'll get them as tight as I possibly can w/ a wrench and after a couple weekends in a row of racing it'll be a bit loose to where I need to snug it up again. I was thinking about using lock tight this time, any other options?

Hardtop00SS

iTrader: (17)

yes, use red loctite should do the trick, I even have lock washers and a **** load of red loctite on mine, been good so far...

SSactionLs1

same here...tried red locktite...they still come loose

VIP1

If there is enough thread for another nut, put one as to act like a jam nut. So you'd have lock-tite and two nuts. If that doesnt work, you can try drilling a hole trough the bolt and using a castle nut and cotter pin like the steering bolts. I havent done either of these (nor do I know anyone who has), they are just ideas.

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

This is actually a common problem with the moser 12 bolt. Red loctite will not work either. This is the main reason I did not get a 12 bolt. There is no fix at this time except put your stock tq arm back on, or keep adjusting them. I guess if it pissed you off enough you could have it welded

StangEaterSS

iTrader: (41)

Ya, it's quite annoying, i'm ready to tac weld the corner of the bolt so it can never move.

SSactionLs1

LOL this problem is no where near bad enough to not buy a 12 bolt

StangEaterSS

iTrader: (41)

ya, my stock 10 bolt blew up the first 3,000 miles i had the car

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, basically before and after each trip to the track I re-torque those four bolts. Takes about 5 minutes to do, yeah it sucks, but better than figuring out how to get the car home after busting a 10 bolt.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I saw some pictures in another thread a while back, where
the bolts had pulled out. Looked like the bolt holes were
not through the whole casting (like on the stocker) but blind
tapped holes. Do not remember whether this was a 12-bolt
or not, but one of the aftermarket ones anyway.

I would say one thing to do is, check how much hole and
how much bolt you have at full tight depth. If there is more
depth to be had, chase that hole with a bottoming tap and
get a Grade 5 or Grade 8 bolt that just barely doesn't
bottom, in as-deep-as-you-can-get. Once the bolt pulls
you're pretty screwed, and a bolt that's backed out can
trash the TA as well as having reduced pull strength. If you
get a top-grade bolt and grind-to-length in a well-bottomed
hole you could engage several more threads, at an improvement
of maybe 20% (or more) yield strength.

And then Loctite it.

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

Red loctite and and spend a few minutes to check the bolts every couple of weeks or before you race. No biggie.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I wonder if you could use a stage 8 bolt... with the little clips against something so it can't back out.....

97LT1

iTrader: (3)

Yeah i would say use the stage 8 and weld an impression on the bottom to stop the lock on the bolt if it trys to turn. Just an idea.

VIP1

ok.... I'm, guessing its not a pass-through bolt. So, my suggestion above would make no sense. Anyone have a pic so I can see what you are talking about?

StangEaterSS

iTrader: (41)

here's a pic of my first broken BMR adjustable TQ arm. the top bolt came loose and ripped the threads out.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

This is the reason that has me leaing toward a 9 inch. I dont like the idea of getting under the car every other week because im paranoid that the bolts are backing out. Its not a race car, I shouldnt have to go over every singe thing before I go to the track.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

That's the picture I was talking about. The bolt does not
look beefy enough to me, not enough diameter and not
enough engaged threads, for the job it has to do. Anthing
you can do to have a stronger bolt and more threads biting
would be good. Depending on what I thought of the amount
of meat on the casting, maybe even drill the hole bigger
and tap for a next-size-up, high grade bolt.

As a note, if you can't find a bottoming tap you can make
one by wet-grinding (so as not to draw temper) a regular
one - I save the ones I break, for this purpose.

SSactionLs1

Its not the 12 bolt itself, its the 2 different materials dealing with heat at different degrees causing separation.

2FAST4U

Yes this is what happens with the 12bolt! I cracked the BMR bracket too! The fix for me was the new designed bracket and no bolts! Well I will put the bolts in as added safty measure!

Oh I had the bracket welded to the rear end, inside outside every where. And the (9") holes filled. As the second set of holes are the bigest problem.

Louis

iTrader: (7)

Wow, You guys read too much on the internet rather than read up on ways to solve the problem

The bolt is plenty strong from Moser. Its a 1/2-13 Grade 8 bolt.

What you need to do is research "Safety Wire"

In fact, Im feeling nice tonight so here are some links-

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0002_hand/

http://www.geocities.com/robm351/pantera/index-24.html

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/safewire.htm


There you go. Read up on that, and you will never have another problem with them backing out. Ever.

Good luck

Louis