MeanHugger

I want to be able to handle amazing on the street but still be able to drive comfortably. I do take the car to the track every once in awhile and need to be able to hook when i make the car faster. These are some things I was thinking about and would like to know your opinions on these pieces.

BMR Subframe Connectors
BMR Shock Tower Brace
BMR Control Arms
BMR Panhard Rod
BMR Front and Rear Sway Bars

Should I go boxed design or tubular?
Which parts should I get in the adjustible versions?
Which bushings?
Will these really improve my handling?
Any thing I should add to the list?

TIA

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Should I go boxed design or tubular? Boxed is stronger, tubular is fine. Boxed hangs a little lower than tubular, but there are other things that hang lower than them.

Which should parts should I get in the adjustible versions? Panhard bar.

Which bushings? Poly/Poly for best handling, but a little more road noise, not real noticible though. I have poly/rubber LCA's and they are great. Rod ends are even better, but more road noise.

Will these really improve my handling? Yes, not as much as a good spring/shock kit though.

Any thing I should add to the list? Springs and shocks.

MeanHugger

Any recommendations when it comes to springs and shocks?
Where is the best place to order these parts from?
What do you guys think about the Hotchkis Performance TVS complete package?

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Ain't nothing gonna break my boxed factory LCAs with
1LE rubber. I think I would prefer a rod-end car to one
with tubular saddle-welded LCAs. Call me paranoid, but
I like a nice positive "keep". Some of those box types
with the bushings through them are not so bad looking.
I'll stick with mine.

See no torque arm mentioned. Between the TA and
LCA relocation brackets, is your main rear suspension
tuneage when it comes to tire bite on acceleration and
braking. I would add BMR bolt-in relos and an adjustable
torque arm, and forget the Panhard unless you are
either a cornering madman, fixing to drop it by more than
an inch, or want to run 11" rubber.

Srings and shocks - very personal. I find a lot of the advice
from the pros is a little extreme, though correct in their
world. And tastes vary. I think if I were to do it over again
I would bite the bullet and search for a good deal on single
adjustable Konis, and back off from the Hotchkiss springs
in favor of either SLP Eibachs or 1LE progressives. Just
'cause the ladies complain about the ride almost as much
as they fear the thunder Besides, it's great looking
all furious and everything, until you drag the tranny pan
over the speedbump.

2FAST4U

Call BMR and order direct or a sponsor and you can net a huge discount on a large buy! Sam for Shocks and Springs but my fav. is Koni SA and 1LE front stock rear!

By the way Nice choices I have the whole BMR set! Every part they sell I have that is how good and how much I like them!

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Very true.

I have found when someone asks what parts it takes to "handle amazing" typically they really mean, what looks good in a signature on the internet.

Some facts about "handling" ...

it takes a solid mount without any bind on the moving parts of the chassis

the ride quality WILL be compromised

FIX THE PROBLEM ... wholesale changes just moves the problem.

a chronometer doesn't lie ... a buttometer will

If you really want to know what it takes to make an F-Body handle ... to be able to hang with Porsches, M3s, M5s, C5s on a road course, their domain, e-mail me, trackbird or Cal.

Better yet, go to www.frrax.com and ask the question there ... if you REALLy want "amazing handling".

If you think running an 10 second 1/4 is a good feeling, you ought to have an owner of a car that costs 5 times as much and has a pedigree on road course come up to you after a session and ask ... "What the hell have you done to that thing?" It happens every track weekend ...

MeanHugger

Where do you order the konis and 1le fronts from?

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

Just wanting to clarify something with regard to this comment. The term "stronger" here is not used in any sort of context so its misleading. In reality a round cross-section will have greater torsional rigidity per unit mass than will a boxed cross-section. The qualifier here is "per unit mass" since in theory you can make anything "stronger" by adding more material.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

In English... neither will break and both will give identical results

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

Ok, since my English appears to be poor, I'll try another approach. If a boxed SFC has the exact same "strength" as a tubular SFC (assuming they are both of the same design) then the boxed will weigh more.

2FAST4U

Boxed is the way to go here. They are not both the same. And strong isn't what you are looking at here. Flex is! No matter what you have under there understand it is what 4' long welded to the car at both ends! Now how much press. do you think that piece takes!

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

Is this a response to my comments above or are you just stating your opinion?

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

If there were forces generated perpedicular to the LCA, in the middle, then by all means, a boxed tube is puch stronger.

However, the stresses applied to an LCA is along it's axis, for the most part. So stretching and compressing is the issue.

Bottom line, your 10 bolt ring and pinion will give out LONG before any LCA will.