HS-Y2kFormula

iTrader: (2)

Today I was coming out of a store when I noticed that I was missing a lugnut on my driver side rear wheel. At first, I thought the lugnut fell off, but after a closer inspection, it turned out that the stud broke off.

Well, I took the brake and rotor off, and I am at a loss as to how I am going to get that stud out. Do you have to pull the axle to get enough room to get that stud out? If not, how do you guys do it?

My brother broke two of them and took it to a tire shop. They managed to replace both of them without opening up the rear end. Of course, he didn't see how they did it!

Anyway, any suggestions would be appreciated.

Mtnm2

I just did one today, take the rotor hammer it out and put a new one in. Its realy easy.

2FAST4U

Stock rear end and ABS 4 or 3channel?

SLIKWS6

iTrader: (6)

i think you can just hammer it out and then by a new one for like cheap an put that one in place, easy lik mtnm said, careful with the rotor

HS-Y2kFormula

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the quick replys! I will give it a try!


I am ashamed to say this, but how do you tell if it is three or four channel ABS? It is a bone stock rear end, 2000 Formula.

HS-Y2kFormula

iTrader: (2)

Well,

Got a BFH, and it come out in about a minute!

Thanks alot

Mtnm2

Traction controled cars have 4 channel, non have 3. Its not to hard

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

If it's a traction control car, there is a sensor in the backing plate. Remove the sensor, align the hole made with the stud and knock the stud out with a big hammer.

If you don't have traction control, then the axles will have to come out. You can beat and pry the old one out, but there just isn't enough room to get the new stud in.

Put the new stud in, place a few washers over it, run a lugnut down and tighten away. An impact gun works best, but it can be done with a ratchet.

The bigger question to answer is why did it break? I would consider replacing all the studs while you are going this far.

Mtnm2

I don't have Traction control. I got mine in with out haveing to take the axel out

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I'd be interested to know your technique ... that would be good information to have ...

Mtnm2

I just pulled the brake rotor off, the stud was small enought that I droped it between the e-brake pads and turned it to fit into place. Took about 5 min total. I might have used a shorter stud than you did, it was the same length as stock, but didn't have the part thats not threaded on the end

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

That might be the difference ...

The stocker has that small taper on the end. Is that enough room to clear it in the axle housing?

I've been replacing the stock studs with APR studs. They are the same length as stock, but not tapered like the stockers.

HS-Y2kFormula

iTrader: (2)

You wouldn't happen to have the part number handy, would you? I would like to replace any future broken studs with the ARP's.

Anyway, I do not have traction control and was able to do the same as Mtnm2. I think your right that it has to do with that tapered end, as the Advanced Auto part I bought does not have that, and it slid right in.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...32&prmenbr=361

PN 070-100-7708

Maggie

You don't have to pull the axel. If you don't have traction controll there is a depression in the backing plate where the ABS sensor would be. Locate this stamped in depression and drill a 3/4 in. hole using the depression to center the drill bit. The hole will line up with the studs and you can put in any length bolt or stud you like.

Raptor99

I don't have TCS either, and I've replaced A LOT of studs over the past year with no issues. Just take off the caliper and rotor, then bang out the old stud. Then to get a new one in, you 'can' take off the emergency brake setup (I never did, but my mechanic did it the last time) and then you have more room to get your fingers behind. Just pull it through, then put a lug nut on, use an impact gun to pull it all the way through. After you put everything back together, torque it down, then keep a torque wrech with you, because you'll have to retorque it in a couple of days. That's why mine kept on breaking, because I'd only torque it the first time, then they'd pull themselves the rest of the way through and be loose.

Good luck!

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Put a couple oversized washers behind the lugnut when you pull it through the housing.

The knurled shoulder stick out beyound the face of the housing after the lugs are cinched down. If you don't use washers, the lug nut will bottom out against the shoulder and the face of the stud isn't pulled all the way into place.

KMStevens

iTrader: (4)

I had to pull my axles to get ARP 3" studs in, it wasnt hard at all to do, just remembering where I put the damn C clips was the most difficult part...

I pulled the axles out and took them to a machine shop and had the studs pressed in, did the spindles as well, cost me 20 bucks for everything.