What is the best way to flush system??
07-31-2005, 07:06 PM
#2
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When I flushed my brake I used this homemade tool.
The tools is a 1 liter Dr. Pepper with 2 feet of wire tied around the neck to attached it to the car. The yellow tube is 3/16" diameter and about 2 feet long. To use this tool make sure there is about 1 inch of brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle. One end of the tube goes over the brake bleeder screw and the other end goes in the bottle, make sure the hose is completely submerged in the fluid, this prevents air from going into the brake system.
There are other ways of bleeding brake or flushing, vacuum, and pressure. Vacuum method uses a hand operate vacuum gun to draw brake fluid in a little collection bottle. I have used this method and it does not work very well, in my opinion this method is a waste of time. The second method is pressure, the pressure method uses an adapter plate that is mounted to the top of the master cylinder and puts the system under 30 pounds of pressure. This method is probably the best method but is cost several hundred dollars (300+) with adapter. The method I used is the most common among home mechanics but it usually requires 2 people to do it, one person pumps the brakes very slowly and other to open the bleeder screw. With the bottle, your are able to eliminate the person opening the bleeder screw, since the hose is already in the brake fluid. I do recommend a second person to watch the hose in the bottle and the level in the master cylinder.
When I did my brakes I used about 1 1/2 gallons of fluid to completely flush my system. After I complete the flush I hooked up the Tech II and ran the automated bleed procedure. The reason for the part is to pulse the ABS module and puts the required pressure on the caliper pistons, this is known as a residual pressure valve on older cars, if this is not done with a Tech II or some other way the brake will feel mushy and wear out your brake pads.
The tools is a 1 liter Dr. Pepper with 2 feet of wire tied around the neck to attached it to the car. The yellow tube is 3/16" diameter and about 2 feet long. To use this tool make sure there is about 1 inch of brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle. One end of the tube goes over the brake bleeder screw and the other end goes in the bottle, make sure the hose is completely submerged in the fluid, this prevents air from going into the brake system.
There are other ways of bleeding brake or flushing, vacuum, and pressure. Vacuum method uses a hand operate vacuum gun to draw brake fluid in a little collection bottle. I have used this method and it does not work very well, in my opinion this method is a waste of time. The second method is pressure, the pressure method uses an adapter plate that is mounted to the top of the master cylinder and puts the system under 30 pounds of pressure. This method is probably the best method but is cost several hundred dollars (300+) with adapter. The method I used is the most common among home mechanics but it usually requires 2 people to do it, one person pumps the brakes very slowly and other to open the bleeder screw. With the bottle, your are able to eliminate the person opening the bleeder screw, since the hose is already in the brake fluid. I do recommend a second person to watch the hose in the bottle and the level in the master cylinder.
When I did my brakes I used about 1 1/2 gallons of fluid to completely flush my system. After I complete the flush I hooked up the Tech II and ran the automated bleed procedure. The reason for the part is to pulse the ABS module and puts the required pressure on the caliper pistons, this is known as a residual pressure valve on older cars, if this is not done with a Tech II or some other way the brake will feel mushy and wear out your brake pads.
07-31-2005, 07:15 PM
#3
Originally Posted by cbrich
After I complete the flush I hooked up the Tech II and ran the automated bleed procedure. The reason for the part is to pulse the ABS module and puts the required pressure on the caliper pistons, this is known as a residual pressure valve on older cars, if this is not done with a Tech II or some other way the brake will feel mushy and wear out your brake pads.
I like the bottle method. Thanks.
Bill
07-31-2005, 07:21 PM
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While I'm not sure what the "best" way is since there seem to be several. FWIW I generally just flush the system using a one-man bleeder like this one from Griot's - http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=85700 . You can also get some that'll run off your air compressor, but I like the hand pump version since you can take it anywhere.
At any rate, just suck what you can out of the master cylinder with a turkey baster and top off with new fluid. On a RWD car, start bleeding with furthest caliper from the master to the nearest (pass side rear, then driver rear, then pass front, finally driver front). If you have a one-man bleeder like I referenced above then you can just pull a vacuum and then crack the bleed screw. Let it suck until you see the clean fluid coming through. If you use the conventional method (i.e. two man process) then you'll need to have someone pressing the brake pedal to push fluid out. If you are doing the latter then crack the bleeder screw, have buddy press pedal, close bleeder, tell buddy to let up on brake pedal. Continue this process until clean fluid comes out. Just make damn sure that the pedal pusher doesn't release the pedal while you still have the bleeder open or you'll draw air into the system. Also keep an eye on your master cylinder and don't let it run low.
I've found that on most vehicles you can reach the bleeders without having to remove the wheels, but if the car is really low you may have to jack it up. Obviously if you have an aftermarket big brake kit like a Brembo or something it may be easier to reach the bleeder.
I'm hoping this makes sense, but if it doesn't then my excuse is that I've spent the last two days in the sun painting my house (not fun)...
At any rate, just suck what you can out of the master cylinder with a turkey baster and top off with new fluid. On a RWD car, start bleeding with furthest caliper from the master to the nearest (pass side rear, then driver rear, then pass front, finally driver front). If you have a one-man bleeder like I referenced above then you can just pull a vacuum and then crack the bleed screw. Let it suck until you see the clean fluid coming through. If you use the conventional method (i.e. two man process) then you'll need to have someone pressing the brake pedal to push fluid out. If you are doing the latter then crack the bleeder screw, have buddy press pedal, close bleeder, tell buddy to let up on brake pedal. Continue this process until clean fluid comes out. Just make damn sure that the pedal pusher doesn't release the pedal while you still have the bleeder open or you'll draw air into the system. Also keep an eye on your master cylinder and don't let it run low.
I've found that on most vehicles you can reach the bleeders without having to remove the wheels, but if the car is really low you may have to jack it up. Obviously if you have an aftermarket big brake kit like a Brembo or something it may be easier to reach the bleeder.
I'm hoping this makes sense, but if it doesn't then my excuse is that I've spent the last two days in the sun painting my house (not fun)...
07-31-2005, 07:34 PM
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I do recommend it but others might say no, or they know of another way to do this. The last time I did my brakes I did not use the Tech II and my front brakes wore out quite fast, pulled to the driver side when I pressed on the brakes, and I had to replace both front rotors due to warping. The pulling to one side can be cause by several things, but I replaced everything like I did before but also used my Tech II. The GM service manual says this is the most important step in bleeding the brake, because it equalizes the pressure to each wheel and should not be overlooked. I would recommend calling the dealer and ask service guys how much it would cost. I do recall someone from this forum saying how to pulse the ABS but I think it was just go fast on a slippery road (dirt, gravel or going really fast on a road) and slam on the brakes. I would not recommend this because of the danager factor of losing control.
07-31-2005, 07:52 PM
#7
With a turkey baster, suck as much fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir as possible. Then refill the reservoir with fresh fluid. This will make sure the fluid in the reservoir is as clean as possible.
Go to the passenger rear and do a standard bleed. When doing a complete flush, I will run the reservoir down fairly low, bleeding only from the passenger rear and then refill. Just make sure you DON'T let it run dry.
Then move to the driver's rear. It should only take 10-15 pedal strokes to see clean fluid.
Keep the reservoir topped off.
Move the passenger front then to the driver's front, each doing 10-15 strokes.
That should flush the sytem and only use about a quart of brake fluid.
Go to the passenger rear and do a standard bleed. When doing a complete flush, I will run the reservoir down fairly low, bleeding only from the passenger rear and then refill. Just make sure you DON'T let it run dry.
Then move to the driver's rear. It should only take 10-15 pedal strokes to see clean fluid.
Keep the reservoir topped off.
Move the passenger front then to the driver's front, each doing 10-15 strokes.
That should flush the sytem and only use about a quart of brake fluid.
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07-31-2005, 11:01 PM
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I could have used a lot less brake fluid but as your can see the hose is yellow. The parts store I went to did not have the clear hose just the yellow, so I flushed system with enough fluid to turn the black fluid in the bottle clear. I did not empty the bottle I just let is overflow in a drain pan. The brake fluid cost me less than $20, which is cheaper than any other fluid in the car.
08-01-2005, 12:22 AM
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I used a 1gal water bottle and went to sears hardware and got 2ft of clear hose for 18cents a ft. It allowed me to set the bottle on the ground and not have to go the wire hanger route.
08-01-2005, 06:26 AM
#11
Originally Posted by cbrich
The brake fluid cost me less than $20, which is cheaper than any other fluid in the car.
I use Castrol SRF for my brakes. At $70/litre keeping wastage to a minimum is paramount.
That clear line is available at most any hardware store. It's so cheap, I keep several feet of a several different sizes stashed away in the back of my shop.
08-01-2005, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
I use Castrol SRF for my brakes. At $70/litre keeping wastage to a minimum is paramount.
That is some very expensive brake fluid, if I was running that stuff I would also use it in moderation. I use the regular Castrol GT LMA brake fluid for all my vehicles which cost about $7/quart, or cheaper if its on sale.
08-01-2005, 03:31 PM
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I just did my brakes yesterday(fronts only) man it sucks not having a lift. to bleed my brakes i went local autopart store and got a hand vacuum pump for 40 dolla ,bleeded my brakes in 15 min
09-11-2005, 11:13 AM
#14
Originally Posted by 8GTOKLR
I just did my brakes yesterday(fronts only) man it sucks not having a lift. to bleed my brakes i went local autopart store and got a hand vacuum pump for 40 dolla ,bleeded my brakes in 15 min
It looks like I have to order brake fluid also.
Bill
09-11-2005, 12:07 PM
#16
Originally Posted by mitchntx
With a turkey baster, suck as much fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir as possible. Then refill the reservoir with fresh fluid. This will make sure the fluid in the reservoir is as clean as possible.
Go to the passenger rear and do a standard bleed. When doing a complete flush, I will run the reservoir down fairly low, bleeding only from the passenger rear and then refill. Just make sure you DON'T let it run dry.
Then move to the driver's rear. It should only take 10-15 pedal strokes to see clean fluid.
Keep the reservoir topped off.
Move the passenger front then to the driver's front, each doing 10-15 strokes.
That should flush the sytem and only use about a quart of brake fluid.
Go to the passenger rear and do a standard bleed. When doing a complete flush, I will run the reservoir down fairly low, bleeding only from the passenger rear and then refill. Just make sure you DON'T let it run dry.
Then move to the driver's rear. It should only take 10-15 pedal strokes to see clean fluid.
Keep the reservoir topped off.
Move the passenger front then to the driver's front, each doing 10-15 strokes.
That should flush the sytem and only use about a quart of brake fluid.
My thoughts.
09-23-2005, 09:16 AM
#18
Many people want to get the full fluid change (not a bad plan), but there is fluid stored in the ABS. So, you flush the system (change the fluid), then you need to cycle the ABS to get that fluid released into the system, and flush again. I just don't bother with that step. It seems to be a mininum amount of fluid and has never "hurt" me at all. So, I flush until I get fresh fluid and leave it at that (until the next time).
