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The manual transmission was designed to be removed 1st from the bell housing, then 2nd remove the bell housing from the block. This is per Hayes GM manuals.
It works really well this way and saves a bunch of hassles.
I just took the whole bitch out at once. My only complaint is the O2 sensor sometimes gets in the way.
ANYways, we do have muscle cars. Muscle cars should vibrate. Solids win.
Solid mounts are just crazy the bushing is there for a reason. I have poly and dont see any reason anyone would need solids unless you had a very high hp drag car.
__________________ 1998 Subaru Legacy GT limited (daily driver) 1995 Mazda Miata 36k miles 2001 Camaro SS #2855 M6 26k miles -- Sold
1990 Camaro RS M5 FQuick
That seems like a very uneducated post. You don't own a car with solid mounts, so you should not comment on them, unless you are commenting on price.
Spohn claims a slight advantage of HP because there is no tossing and turning of the engine. They claim this puts more power to the ground. I really love my solid mounts.
I have yet to hear of ONE person who had/has solid mounts that doesn't like them.
EDIT- the bushing is there for the same reason the car doesn't have 500hp, so I can change it.
Ok with no bushing there to soak up some movement that has to put more stress on the drivetrain I dont have to own them to know that. I had a car with just some stiff poly mounts b4 also and it was terrible so I was even worried about getting them on this car. Now on a ls1 they might not be bad as far as the vibration but with my stock tranny and 10bolt im sticking with the polys.
__________________ 1998 Subaru Legacy GT limited (daily driver) 1995 Mazda Miata 36k miles 2001 Camaro SS #2855 M6 26k miles -- Sold
1990 Camaro RS M5 FQuick
I disagree with the "adding stress to the drivetrain" for this reason: rubber and poly mounts allow binding of the drivetrain. This means the engine is moving. I put solid mounts on the car, a poly tranny mount, a body mounted torque arm(rod-ended), tubular LCAs(poly) and relocation brackets. My drivetrain does not move at all, and there is no articulation. This puts the most power to the ground and will cause less wear and tear on the tranny mount and LCAs because they wont move, either. Movement of bushings cause wear.
I'm sure you love your poly's, but you are commenting and speculating on something you don't have firsthand experience with. I'm in favor of solid mounts for the weight savings and race car feel, and I SPECULATE they don't vibrate anymore than poly mounts, based on the reviews I've read on this board.
I want to dispel myths on here about solid mounts and explain their benefits. Most people here that bash solid mounts have never had them on their car.
When I put my poly's in, they didn't line up very well. Instead of fighting the motor, I took the mount back out, put it in the vise and pushed the metal tube over to get it to line up better. It took me all of 10 mins to bend it and get all four bolts in. PM if you need more details, but it is an easy fix to a common problem.
Can these mounts be a butt to put it? How long does it take? Whats the best way to do it?
I make about 400 RWHP with a cam and someother things..The car idles so rough with rubber bushings I figure either poly or solid would absorb it. I'm surprised the rubber bushing aren't shot yet..
I have poly's now and love them. But when I get me a new K-Member, it'll be solids for sure. Either is a 1000x better than stock mounts though, especially if your car is cammed.
I have poly's now and love them. But when I get me a new K-Member, it'll be solids for sure. Either is a 1000x better than stock mounts though, especially if your car is cammed.
Man I just put together my front end with Energy suspension bushings, moog chasis parts, and went back with prothane motor mounts, I feel the motor a little more at idle, I'm not sure about the solids but if I go tubular like you are, in the future Im going to try solids. No matter how much HP you have I think a nasty cam on solid mounts is a sure fire way to get a woody....just throwing that out there
__________________ 2001 SS Onyx Black on Ebony M6 on Koni SA SOLD
Quote:
Originally Posted by ICEMAN 31
hell if I could I would do 90 out of the driveway......stupid short *** driveway.
Can these mounts be a butt to put it? How long does it take? Whats the best way to do it?
I make about 400 RWHP with a cam and someother things..The car idles so rough with rubber bushings I figure either poly or solid would absorb it. I'm surprised the rubber bushing aren't shot yet..
yeah, they are a pain in the *** to change. i would have someone else there to help you.
yeah, they are a pain in the *** to change. i would have someone else there to help you.
Def have some help.
When I did poly ones in my 94 T/a I couldn't get it to line up for the life of me at first. Spent about 6-7 hours trying to get the driver's side to work for me and then just gave up for the day. Figured out that my problem was that the car wasn't sitting completely level. I just put a carpenter's level on my intake, leveled it out best I could (my driveway is crooked, most of the problem) and worked like a charm. Got the driver's side in, passenger's side out and new one in, took me 1.5-2 hrs once it was leveled out.
Another thought: it may seem obvious, but only do one side at a time if you are doing it with the engine in the car. I have heard of people making the mistake of taking out both of the old motor mounts before starting the new ones, and then it becomes much more difficult. Do one at a time and save yourself some aggravation
im still on my stock mounts here...i was thinking about changing them out but to tell you the truth the extra vibration and shake is not worth it for a street strip car. i had poly mounts in my 89 and they sucked
__________________ TOY: 2002 RED/EBONY M6 WS6
FORGED 347, F13, TFS 220 AS CAST, FAST 90, ARH 1 7/8" HEADERS & Y, DUAL DMH LOW PRO CUTOUTS, MONSTER STAGE 3, RSG BUILT T56, PST 3.5" ALUM DS, MIDWEST M9 AND REAR SUSPENSION, HALS ALL AROUND.
Daily Driver: 2007 E92 328xi Space Gray w/ Coral Red/Black Int.
I'm sure you love your poly's, but you are commenting and speculating on something you don't have firsthand experience with. I'm in favor of solid mounts for the weight savings and race car feel, and I SPECULATE they don't vibrate anymore than poly mounts, based on the reviews I've read on this board.
I want to dispel myths on here about solid mounts and explain their benefits. Most people here that bash solid mounts have never had them on their car.
I'm with this guy. I put my solids in about 5 or 6 months ago when I put headers in (made the header install a breeze, I could drive a Mack through there.) I love them, car does vibe a bit at idle, not a big deal at all. It is at it's worst when it's cold and the idle is just a bit higher, about the sweet spot to make it vibe. Warmed up they are all but gone. I love how the car shakes and rocks. Along with being lighter I do not see how they could put stress on the rest of the drivetrian. If anything they should be relieving stress becouse nothing aft of the engine is able to move or twist. (besides the rear upwards of coarse.) Also after the install I noticed the car hooked and squated better. Only thing I could think of is it removed the shock of the engine and trans rocking over that would normally help break the tires loose. I have made a believer out of a couple of friends who told me I was stupid for putting them in a street driven car. After a few rides they agreed that the vibes are about the same as stock.
__________________
98 Formula A4, Street Tires, Some Bolt On's, Runs on Moonshine, Smells like a Distillery...
12.05 @ 115.53 with a 1.94 60' (Damn street tires)
Tuned by TJ, Baker Engineering, Inc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkvamso
Top fuel dragsters dont have springs and torque arms or lower control arms, but they do have 7000 hp and they run 3's
More power is better
My only beef with running solid mounts would be 1) access to transmission & bellhousing bolts and 2) I don't believe an aftermarket K-member can be used with solids. Other than those, I'd be all for running solids.
My only beef with running solid mounts would be 1) access to transmission & bellhousing bolts and 2) I don't believe an aftermarket K-member can be used with solids. Other than those, I'd be all for running solids.
As for the access to the bolts it's really not a big issue. Either loosen the bolts and drop the K member a little bit or remove the bolts in the M/Ms while leaving the rear-most two on each side allowing you to pivot just like stock. As for the aftermarket K, I do believe you can run the Spohn K with them.
__________________
98 Formula A4, Street Tires, Some Bolt On's, Runs on Moonshine, Smells like a Distillery...
12.05 @ 115.53 with a 1.94 60' (Damn street tires)
Tuned by TJ, Baker Engineering, Inc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkvamso
Top fuel dragsters dont have springs and torque arms or lower control arms, but they do have 7000 hp and they run 3's
More power is better
Well, this is an old *** thread... but so are my motor mounts so I suppose i'll ask. Is there any advantage in installation between the two? (poly vs. solids)
Seems that the solids would be slightly easier
__________________ 2000 Trans Am M6 - Sold
1990 240lsx in the making
