Worth changing from Hotchkis to UMI?
11-04-2007, 06:10 PM
#1
Worth changing from Hotchkis to UMI? Currently we're running Hotchkis Springs, Strut tower brace, lower control arms and a single adjustable panhard, all Poly/Poly. Also have SLP Bolt-in SFCs that ive hesitated welding them in because ive been considering a swap.
Besides probably a weight reduction, would it be worth selling off the Hotchkis LCAs, PHR, STB, and SLP SFCs and going with the Poly/Rod UMI LCAs, and PHR, and 3 point SFCs performance wise? I got the hotchkis parts for free, so its not a big deal to sell them.
Let me know what you guys think.
Besides probably a weight reduction, would it be worth selling off the Hotchkis LCAs, PHR, STB, and SLP SFCs and going with the Poly/Rod UMI LCAs, and PHR, and 3 point SFCs performance wise? I got the hotchkis parts for free, so its not a big deal to sell them.
Let me know what you guys think.
11-04-2007, 06:53 PM
#2
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IMO all of that stuff is basically the same. I highly doubt it would be worth it to sell any of it for another brand. Only thing is the poly/poly LCA's will bind if you're into handling. You could probably swap out the poly on one end for rubber, but don't hold me to it as I've never done it.
11-04-2007, 07:00 PM
#3
if you're into drag racing a lot, i don't think it'd be worth the time to swap them out.
but if you're looking to get better handling, then i'd definitely recommend switching to a poly/rod LCA, and a rod/rod PHR. i'd just keep the STB & SFC's you already have.
but if you're looking to get better handling, then i'd definitely recommend switching to a poly/rod LCA, and a rod/rod PHR. i'd just keep the STB & SFC's you already have.
09-11-2017, 02:00 AM
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Currently we're running Hotchkis Springs, Strut tower brace, lower control arms and a single adjustable panhard, all Poly/Poly. Also have SLP Bolt-in SFCs that ive hesitated welding them in because ive been considering a swap.
Besides probably a weight reduction, would it be worth selling off the Hotchkis LCAs, PHR, STB, and SLP SFCs and going with the Poly/Rod UMI LCAs, and PHR, and 3 point SFCs performance wise? I got the hotchkis parts for free, so its not a big deal to sell them.
Let me know what you guys think.
Besides probably a weight reduction, would it be worth selling off the Hotchkis LCAs, PHR, STB, and SLP SFCs and going with the Poly/Rod UMI LCAs, and PHR, and 3 point SFCs performance wise? I got the hotchkis parts for free, so its not a big deal to sell them.
Let me know what you guys think.
Man you got you suspension parts for free too!? I also have the LCA's, PHR, STB and SLP SFC's. I was thinking of modding those 30 Thousands over but I wasnt sure if they would clear the SFC's. Any suggestions.
09-11-2017, 02:11 AM
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0.030"!!!!!! Bruh...
From experience, 30 thousands is waaaaaay too much, first of all, the working angels of the LCA's would definitely stress the SFC's to point of excessive CS travel. In turn, the UB's will wear out sooner due excessive torsional twist.
On the HTS system, as opposed to the UMI system, I modded my LCA's to .025" and eliminated all the torsional twist and excessive CS travel.
Hope this helps!
From experience, 30 thousands is waaaaaay too much, first of all, the working angels of the LCA's would definitely stress the SFC's to point of excessive CS travel. In turn, the UB's will wear out sooner due excessive torsional twist.
On the HTS system, as opposed to the UMI system, I modded my LCA's to .025" and eliminated all the torsional twist and excessive CS travel.
Hope this helps!
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09-11-2017, 04:42 AM
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Dear Toasty,
Thanks that was very helpful. I used a .025" feeler gauge to get the clearance on LCA's. Unfortunately I don't have welding equipment but My guy at the AutoZone when asked about bonding metal recommended JB Weld. I ruffed the surface of the LCA's and FR bracket for the poly/poly mount with the sharp side of my Husky flat head. Iv got everything clamped now just waiting for the bonds to cure. hopefully that JB Weld will hold under heavy cornering in my drift race tomorrow.
On a side note performance wise do you have any opinion on this Flux-Capacitor? (Part# 121G Line: EB) here is a link.
Thanks Bro!!
https://www.oreillyauto.com/flux-capacitor
Thanks that was very helpful. I used a .025" feeler gauge to get the clearance on LCA's. Unfortunately I don't have welding equipment but My guy at the AutoZone when asked about bonding metal recommended JB Weld. I ruffed the surface of the LCA's and FR bracket for the poly/poly mount with the sharp side of my Husky flat head. Iv got everything clamped now just waiting for the bonds to cure. hopefully that JB Weld will hold under heavy cornering in my drift race tomorrow.
On a side note performance wise do you have any opinion on this Flux-Capacitor? (Part# 121G Line: EB) here is a link.
Thanks Bro!!
https://www.oreillyauto.com/flux-capacitor
Last edited by BurntBrownie675; 09-11-2017 at 04:58 AM.
09-11-2017, 05:10 AM
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Tough as Nails!!! Glad I could help!
Just a quick response to using a feeler gauge to accurately measure for this application... A 0.045" plastic gauge with a 45lb impact torque wrench (1/2" drive) to compress down to the 0.025" LCA, SFC requirements. For better bonding of the SFC's, try using the hybrid form of the intense epoxy called Liquid Nails used for bonding metal to metal in heavy duty applications.
Make sure you use the caulk tube type.
Prior to epoxy application, apply heat to the poly/poly joints using a map gas/acetylene torch. The metal must be cherry red when you apply the liquid nail epoxy. Excessive heat is needed for proper bonding.
You will be satisfied and come out on top during your drift racing!!
p.s. I checked out the FC in the link. pretty cool, too bad its on back order...
I am still waiting for this part to ship.
Just a quick response to using a feeler gauge to accurately measure for this application... A 0.045" plastic gauge with a 45lb impact torque wrench (1/2" drive) to compress down to the 0.025" LCA, SFC requirements. For better bonding of the SFC's, try using the hybrid form of the intense epoxy called Liquid Nails used for bonding metal to metal in heavy duty applications.
Make sure you use the caulk tube type.
Prior to epoxy application, apply heat to the poly/poly joints using a map gas/acetylene torch. The metal must be cherry red when you apply the liquid nail epoxy. Excessive heat is needed for proper bonding.
You will be satisfied and come out on top during your drift racing!!
p.s. I checked out the FC in the link. pretty cool, too bad its on back order...
I am still waiting for this part to ship.
09-11-2017, 05:21 AM
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Clamps are coming off! I really like that idea with the liquid nails. The JB Weld tube said 10min quick cure so I lowered the car and it went straight to the floor. The LCA's separated from the SFC's and FR supports. Almost tore my poly/poly joints.
I looked around and found the Liquid Nails. My dad had it next to the silicone he uses for the shower. hope he wont mind
. Will definitely try the Heat method prior to torqueing down the LCA's again. But I don't have a 45lb impact torque wrench in a 1/2" drive, I only have a 1/4 torque wrench. if I set it max to 100 inch pounds with that be enough 
I looked around and found the Liquid Nails. My dad had it next to the silicone he uses for the shower. hope he wont mind
. Will definitely try the Heat method prior to torqueing down the LCA's again. But I don't have a 45lb impact torque wrench in a 1/2" drive, I only have a 1/4 torque wrench. if I set it max to 100 inch pounds with that be enough
09-12-2017, 01:35 AM
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Good call on the 100 inch pounds!!! Bro,
100 Inch pounds should be plenty. Sorry to hear about the JB Weld fail. Did you try the LQNails method for adhesion of the poly/poly to the SFC's? it's far more superior than the JB Method.
Oh wait! did you at least let that JB weld cure for 30 minutes? the extra time would have helped proper cohesion of the metallic substrates.
For future torque specs, use 11.3 Newton Meters instead of inch pounds. I listed a quick reference guide to help you out!
1 Newton Meter:
kg·m2/s2. SI unit.
1 Inch-Pound Force:
g x 1 lb x 1 in.
Good Luck!
100 Inch pounds should be plenty. Sorry to hear about the JB Weld fail. Did you try the LQNails method for adhesion of the poly/poly to the SFC's? it's far more superior than the JB Method.
Oh wait! did you at least let that JB weld cure for 30 minutes? the extra time would have helped proper cohesion of the metallic substrates.
For future torque specs, use 11.3 Newton Meters instead of inch pounds. I listed a quick reference guide to help you out!
1 Newton Meter:
kg·m2/s2. SI unit.
1 Inch-Pound Force:
g x 1 lb x 1 in.
Good Luck!
