98SuperSport

iTrader: (1)

Trying to do my research here over the winter. The car is a 98 Camaro. It is full exhaust and lid, a manual transmission, and will be on street tires. I was hoping to lower my 60' times as they are currently killing me and I don't have $ for a rear/slicks.

I read about the LCA relocation brackets (believe on UMI's site) and about the LCA themselves.

1. Will the LCA relos really give .1 in the 60' like they say?
2. Are the LCA really worth it to me since I am on street tires?
3. Would subframes help much as far as 60' times go?
4. How would these different things play into the streetability and handling of the car (which I like the way it is now) and will the wear on the tires or rear suspension be affected negatively?

Thanks for your time guys.

5301113

iTrader: (18)

To answer your questions
1. Yes maybe more with LCA & Torque arm
2. yes car feels solid
3. no, Torque arm is better
4.No affect in negative way . Tires hook up better so less spin

green28

iTrader: (8)

I'm kind of interested in this stuff too, might be trying to add some things over the winter. From what I've read a torque arm is the biggest benifit. What about non vs single and double adjustable? I was thinking of starting with a panhard bar and LCA's. I doubt I'd go with DA, but is SA ok or is it overkill for a street car that only hits the track once or twice a year?

5301113

iTrader: (18)

On the torque arm if your not going to lower your car you can go with non adjustable, the adjustable ones are if you want of be able to dial in on the track. I started with the pan hard rod and LCA's and car feels solid on the street, the SA is not overkill on a streetcar. Like you I only hit the track once or twice a year and it's nice to have the ability to adjust your suspension. The Torque arm and pan hard rod with LCA’s will help you maximize your performance with your Mod’s

teke184

iTrader: (5)

LCA alone are a good upgrade. for both launching and just regular spirited driving. stockers flex and have soft bushings that throw off the geometry of the suspension.

brackets should help. but if you're not getting much wheel hop...than they may not help as much as you'd think.

the SFC will help make the car more solid. how that translates to the track i don't know. unfortunately...the added weight may slow you down some.

one inexpensive thing to do while under the car is the torque arm bushing. the stocker is soft and flexes....the poly bushing will help the TA do it's job mroe efficiently. all for a $15 price tag and an hour of work.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

If your using a trans mounted TA You'll also want to put in a poly trans mount too.
It really helps cut down on flex at the trans/TA mount.

91_RS_LS1

If you like cornering, you may not want to go with poly ended LCAs. I had them on my car for a short while and didn't like them. I now have a set I made with heavy duty rubber on the body and a high quality rod end on the rear end. Much better for everthing!

cruiSSin LS1

iTrader: (2)

lca's, and brackets, torque arm , and sfc's will make ur ride...lets jsut say a billion times better to drive. and it will greatly help ur launches

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

My question is how will any of these things help you if you are trying to get good drag strip results on street tires? SFCs prevent the car from supposedly flexing due to the car twisting under launching, right? If street tires aren't grippy enough to rotate the axle opposite of the engine on the drive shaft, then how would SFCs help you at all?

I'd prefer some experienced drag racing people to respond to this than people who are just gonna pull an answer out of their ***.

djsanchez2

iTrader: (14)

Honestly don't waste your money on SFC's if money is a lil tight and you are trying to get the biggest bang for the buck.

If by going to the track you mean the drag strip then go:

Boxed LCA
Reloc. Brackets
Adj. PHB
Adj. Trans mounted T/A
Misc. mounts (poly)


Then use the $$ saved from the SFC's and get a set of Nitto's. You WILL NOT be dissapointed. I have had all the above mentioned parts in addition to a Tunnel mount T/A, non-adj PHB, and DD SFC's. So i'm not just talking outta my ***.

Oh and UMI has great prices on the above things. The PHB in particular, if you don't mind a lil extra work adjusting it.

98SuperSport

iTrader: (1)

if i was just going to get the LCA or the LCA relocation brackets, which one would help more? or since the LCA relos are cheaper do you think i should just go for them instead?

waldershrek

iTrader: (1)

5301113

iTrader: (18)

LCA are better then the brackets. The brackets only help when you lower your ride your suspension geometry is altered so the brackets will correct that.

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

This is not true at all...The relocation brackets help no matter if you are lowered or not...They are more of a necessity on a lowered car, but they help any car by making the lca geometry better to help hit the tires harder...Its very hard to say what one suspension part is better than another because it all has to work together effectively...Imho, get adjustable everything to help tune the suspension for optimum results...and consistency...

--Alan