robertbartsch

Does this suspention set-up require special offset 11" inch wheels (e.g. 35 offset)?

A few road racers have tis but I don"t know how this is done on a street car.

Thanks...

TINKRD

iTrader: (27)

315's would look like *** up front on a street car.

Mojave

iTrader: (4)

There is a thread about this in the RR section right now, where I link to this thread from less than a month ago about this exact same topic:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/road-racing/810057-need-help-wheels-tires-315x4.html


I think 315's on all 4 corners looks great, but it is probably overkill for a street car. They will fit, but it takes a little effort.

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

www.jonaadland.com

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, you should probably stick some 205s up front - 'cause they are SOOOOO sexy!

The more rubber you can get on the ground, the better it'll handle. And, a better handling car is ALWAYS sexier. Otherwise, you're just rice.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

315's are not a great idea for the front of a street car (or frankly IMHO the rear). Especially for Robert who is worried about his ride. The unsprung weight goes way up, and fwiw, the car will pull and yank through ruts much more than with 275's. Yes, I have them on my car for autoxing, because I can actually use the rubber down on the ground, and I have much lighter wheels than most things anyone would run on the street. I don't run 315's on the street. Hell, I still have 16x8's for my street tires, and it's very hard to get near the limits of those on an acutal road.... and I don't even have great 245/50-16's mounted, just so-so ones to get the car around.

Ironhead

Do I drive it like that on the street? No.
Does it look like ***? No.
Is it a street car? Yes.

robertbartsch

That car ^ does not look like ***.

In fact, I like the aggressive look, particularly the big meats in the front. It looks like a 95 and I used to own a 3rd gen like this a few years ago. I assume it sticks well.

Anyway, Ironhead, how did you get the wheels and tires under there?

What size wheels with what offset did you use? Any spacers?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I've read that on the TA body, you can do 36 mm with almost no modification. I wonder if that varies on each car though? 36mm in front has been done by some people. The pic of the blue LT1 above is actulaly 36mm wheels. I remember when I considered 36mm looking at the huge thread that he made about it. He did something to flare the front fenders a little bit even though the front fenders are fiberglass. Jammed a piece of rubber up inside the hammered lip.

I have 315s on mine and I run 50mm wheels on my camaro. You will need a spacer. If you grind the nub off the spindle arm, I think some people have gotten away wtih 1/4 inch spacer. I run a 5/16 inch spacer with the nub ground off. I think long ARP studs are a must for safety purposes with open lugs. Its advised that you hammer a lip at the 12 o clock position above the rubber fender lining so that the tire wont catch and cut itself on it. I rub at full turn on the inner rubber fender, but I don't really care that much. I did take the dremel and chop off some parts of my OEM body kit so my tire didn't flick at it when turning.

One thing to note is that 36mm zr1 wheels are harder to find and more expensive from when I was buying last year. I think AFS has some. 50mm you can get lots of places in more finishes and you can get a set of them for like 500 bucks. I tell my friends that when they ask me about my wheels and they can't believe it. They aren't lightweight by any means, but they are good enough to win me races.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Oh and I like the way the wide wheels look in the front and don't really care who doesn't

Ironhead

Cheapo Chinese ZR1 knockoffs
17x11 50mm offset

I had to roll the rear fender lips, install longer studs and run a 1/2 inch spacer front and rear.

That's it. No beating, no hammering, no fabrication required. Nothing rubs anywhere. It's just a matter of getting the spacer thickness and / or wheel backspacing right.

The car is lowered an inch or so using a Ground Control setup.




FWIW I no longer have those round boat anchors (cheapo wheels are rather heavy). Sold them last month to a Z16 ZO6 guy from one of the regions I run with. They'll be replaced by a lightweight set of CCWs or Bogarts for next season.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

where the hell are the stranoparts.com stickers????????????? Grrr....

Ironhead

Hey you... I've been wanting those all year. Never got them after I asked late last winter.

You're in for it now. I've informed the mother-in-law about this. You should be hearing from her shortly.




No worries though, I still have the old ones on the car. (rear fender)

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

i didnt get any stickers Sam




















i'm just kiddin. i got the sways/springs in today and the Konis in a couple days ago..just got off the phone with Arlynn about the shock settings. install is set for tomorrow
i'll prolly call you next week about tire pressures

Chris

robertbartsch

Brian:
...which vendor is "AFS"?

I'm running 11" ZR1s on the rear and 36 offset ZR1s would match.

Thanks...

robertbartsch

I found AFS on the web.

robertbartsch

I found some 36 offset wheels in 17x11;

Question: How many millimetors are in one inch? Is 14mm [50mm - 36mm] equal to 1/4 inch, 3/16 inch, 5/16 inch?

I would prefer to get the offset correct and not use spacers and long studs.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

5/16 is 8mm and 1/4 is 6mm. So ideally it would be nice to have a 40 or 42 mm offset wheel. You can get torque thrust 2's or M's around that offset as well as more expensive wheels like CCW, but I decided to go for the longer studs and the hubcentric spacers.

chavez885

iTrader: (12)

i agree