Bad Chad

iTrader: (94)

A few months back I had a 6.0 installed in my car and the tach worked fine and the check engine light was not on.

After the motor was installed the tach quit working and the check engine light is on. When I put a scanner on the car is says the signal for cam sensor is low. I put in a new cam sensor and still the same code comes up. I was told to check the wires that run along the passenger headers to make sure they are not touching. Well they were so I fixed them and still nothing... When I replaced the transmission this weekend I found the plug for the knock sensors was not plugged in so I plugged it in and checked the connection on the cam sensor and everything seemed fine.


Does anyone know what it could be? I have to get the car inspected this month so I need to get the check engine light off and it would be nice to get the tack working. I checked the fuses by the door panel, is there another place that has fuses?

Dirty 30

iTrader: (96)

crank sensor?

kornfreak_401

iTrader: (77)

crank position sensor on the right side of the block/oil pan??

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

Swap the outer two wires on the can sensor harness. This is very common, especially with GEN4 engine swaps into Gen3 cars. The symptoms are hard starting, no/sparatic tach signal, DTC code thrown.

01Z0H6

iTrader: (63)

Guarnteed that is what it is... Had it happen to me once aftera motor install.. The plug is not snapped in to the sensor..

Bad Chad

iTrader: (94)

This sounds eactly what is going on.... Sometimes it will not crank and just backfire a little through the exhaust. I hope this is not it, I really don't feel like pulling the intake again. LOL

I will try the cam sencor, but from what what Matt is saying it exactly what the car is doing.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

I'd bet lunch on the cam sensor

Bad Chad

iTrader: (94)

If it is, I have no problem paying for lunch....

I'm just tired of the check engine light being on and no tach... LOL

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

Did you get a chance to check this last night?

Pavlock Performance

iTrader: (39)

You must be hungry Matt haha

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

HAHA! Neh. Just curious No lunch required!

Bad Chad

iTrader: (94)

is there a way to check it with out pulling the intake? If I have to pull the intake I may do it tonight.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

Is this an Gen4 swap that has the cam sensor in the front cover? If so, you can swap the outer two wires up there at the front cover as well!

Bad Chad

iTrader: (94)

No, this has the sencor in the back of the intake like the LS1...

Is there a sencor in the front? I was only aware of the one in the rear of the block.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

No, it'd just be in the rear. It will not be an issue where you need to swap those wires if it's still in the rear. More likely, the sensor is bad, or the wiring to and from the sensor to the PCM is cut/frayed/etc.

Bad Chad

iTrader: (94)

The cam sencor is new, and all the wiring looks good...

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

What is the code number?

Bad Chad

iTrader: (94)

I can't remember, I will have to get the scaner from my brother tomorrow...

Tonight I'm going to check some wiring and the connections to the computer, maybe something is loose.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

Yea, check to make sure the pins coming out of the PCM are straight, not pushed in farther than others, etc...even a little bend can wreak havoc on the rest of the systems!

Bad Chad

iTrader: (94)

Does an unplugged connector justify hanging the motor installer???? I know it was an Honest Mistake so I'm not going to choke him too bad the next time he works on the car.

After checking the connectors for the computer and other various connectors I found this:


so I did this:


and this started working:


but now I need to get this to shut off: