desperate need of a shop or individual that's good with wiring
10-18-2010, 05:01 PM
#1
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desperate need of a shop or individual that's good with wiring i've been putting together a 3'rd gen camaro. its stripped of all the interior. i have a built small block chevy/t-56 in ready to go.
i bought a generic wiring harness from summit. i followed the instructions to wire it the best i can, but i'm still having problems getting the starting/charging system working.
the only thing i lack is to get the car to start and have the alternator charge the battery. i've gotten all the exterior lights, blinkers, etc to work.
if its an individual i'll pay whatever it takes (within reason)
could anyone help or point me in the wright direction?
i bought a generic wiring harness from summit. i followed the instructions to wire it the best i can, but i'm still having problems getting the starting/charging system working.
the only thing i lack is to get the car to start and have the alternator charge the battery. i've gotten all the exterior lights, blinkers, etc to work.
if its an individual i'll pay whatever it takes (within reason)
could anyone help or point me in the wright direction?
10-18-2010, 05:34 PM
#2
Is this a street car?
Key start?
SBC ... carbed or EFI?
http://lawmotorsports.net/Chassis4.htm
This is an LT1/T56 stripped of everything.
toggle switches power the system
momentary switch engages the starter
Uses stock LT1 electronics.
Key start?
SBC ... carbed or EFI?
http://lawmotorsports.net/Chassis4.htm
This is an LT1/T56 stripped of everything.
toggle switches power the system
momentary switch engages the starter
Uses stock LT1 electronics.
10-18-2010, 06:22 PM
#3
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its pretty much just a race car. i'm just doing the bare minimum to drive it on the street. ex, (head lights, brake lights, blinkers) its stripped all the way down. the stock harness was yanked out. i used the generic after market harness to get all that working. but i can't get it to start.
and its carbed. i built the engine outside of the car and had it tuned on an engine dyno. so i know the problem has to be in the harness. i just can't place it.
and its carbed. i built the engine outside of the car and had it tuned on an engine dyno. so i know the problem has to be in the harness. i just can't place it.
10-18-2010, 08:20 PM
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If youre using a 3 wire alternator the brown wire has to be hooked up to the bat. and the other one to an ignition source.
As far as the ignition goes, if it is so equipped and you have the resistor in the key that might be what is preventing it from starting if you took it all out. I bypassed all that crap in my old 3rd gen and used a pushbutton start.
As far as the ignition goes, if it is so equipped and you have the resistor in the key that might be what is preventing it from starting if you took it all out. I bypassed all that crap in my old 3rd gen and used a pushbutton start.
10-18-2010, 08:26 PM
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10-18-2010, 08:32 PM
#7
Momentary 12V to the solenoid should roll the motor.
If you are trying to use the key, I can't help. All that weight is gone on my car.
Push button start and I use a Baker VATS module to by-pass security.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-VA...Q5fAccessories
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10-18-2010, 08:34 PM
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If youre using a 3 wire alternator the brown wire has to be hooked up to the bat. and the other one to an ignition source.
As far as the ignition goes, if it is so equipped and you have the resistor in the key that might be what is preventing it from starting if you took it all out. I bypassed all that crap in my old 3rd gen and used a pushbutton start.
As far as the ignition goes, if it is so equipped and you have the resistor in the key that might be what is preventing it from starting if you took it all out. I bypassed all that crap in my old 3rd gen and used a pushbutton start.
and my alternator has a two prong plug in. and on the back side it has a small stud protruding out of the back looking like a battery terminal.
10-18-2010, 09:03 PM
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well i'm using an aftermarket high torque starter that doesn't have its own solenoid but requires an external one. so i bought a basic external solenoid and wired a real thick wire from the starter to a post on the solenoid, and a thick wire from the battery to a post on the opposite side of the solenoid. the instructions called to wire the switch on the third post. i did that and wire the other side of the switch to ground. i flipped the switch and nothing happened at all.
so i went back and disconnected the switch and took the wire and touched it to the frame to see if it was even hot and it wasn"t.
so i went back and disconnected the switch and took the wire and touched it to the frame to see if it was even hot and it wasn"t.
10-19-2010, 08:41 AM
#12
If you are using a Ford style solenoid, the hot (battery) side cable goes on the same side of the solenoid a the small post "S" terminal. Make any sense? Nothing on the solenoid gets grounded except for where is bolts on.
Most aftermarket high torque starters DO have an internal solenoid. You should have one large stud (where the posititve cable goes) and a smaller stud or flat connector (that's where you would hook up to your key).
If you are using an external soleniod, you need to run a wire from the large terminal on the starter to the small one on the starter.
Most aftermarket high torque starters DO have an internal solenoid. You should have one large stud (where the posititve cable goes) and a smaller stud or flat connector (that's where you would hook up to your key).
If you are using an external soleniod, you need to run a wire from the large terminal on the starter to the small one on the starter.
10-19-2010, 04:18 PM
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off that third post i connected a wire to one terminal on a push button and on the other terminal of the button i put a wire to ground.
10-19-2010, 04:56 PM
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If you are using a Ford style solenoid, the hot (battery) side cable goes on the same side of the solenoid a the small post "S" terminal. Make any sense? Nothing on the solenoid gets grounded except for where is bolts on.
Most aftermarket high torque starters DO have an internal solenoid. You should have one large stud (where the posititve cable goes) and a smaller stud or flat connector (that's where you would hook up to your key).
If you are using an external soleniod, you need to run a wire from the large terminal on the starter to the small one on the starter.
Most aftermarket high torque starters DO have an internal solenoid. You should have one large stud (where the posititve cable goes) and a smaller stud or flat connector (that's where you would hook up to your key).
If you are using an external soleniod, you need to run a wire from the large terminal on the starter to the small one on the starter.
and i am also using a ford solenoid. the instructions that came with it siad this,
{"connect POSITIVE battery cable to terminal "B".
connect Starter Motor cable to terminal "M".
connect Ignition Switch lead to terminal "S".
if applicable connect coil lead to terminal "i" if old starter solenoid only has 3 terminals- "B","M","S"- do not use terminal "I"}
so i followed those, connecting the battery to "b", the starter to "m", and the push button to "s".
10-19-2010, 05:18 PM
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Starting Foundation Wiring Schematics would be very helpful;
I personally don’t know why anyone would ask for help and not provide us wiring schematics especially since its aftermarket.
90% of all electrical problems/errors can be located in less than 60 minutes on almost every automobile.
Trash In = Trash Out, start with a good “known” power source 12.6 volts. Follow the path of electrical power starting at the battery (using a good “known” ground), through each section check your final power output & ohms of resistance for each section if it applies, “Double check all connections” and fuses,switchs, relays, power distribution blocks etc... .
Then move all the way up until the power is missing/not hot (then check the actual component/load).
Also check all grounds starting at the “Electrical load” through every ground connection all the way up to the battery. (This should take the longest especially when using a “Common grounds/locations”)
Testing components in-between the wiring harness “Correctly” is the sole responsibility of the person diagnosing the electrical problem just because its new doesn’t mean it works as designed. (This includes the wiring harness)
I know you probably already have most of this figured out but get us the facts. last known hot power location in reference to the starter including switchs.
I sure hope you have digital multi-meter
-Trev
I personally don’t know why anyone would ask for help and not provide us wiring schematics especially since its aftermarket.
90% of all electrical problems/errors can be located in less than 60 minutes on almost every automobile.
Trash In = Trash Out, start with a good “known” power source 12.6 volts. Follow the path of electrical power starting at the battery (using a good “known” ground), through each section check your final power output & ohms of resistance for each section if it applies, “Double check all connections” and fuses,switchs, relays, power distribution blocks etc... .
Then move all the way up until the power is missing/not hot (then check the actual component/load).
Also check all grounds starting at the “Electrical load” through every ground connection all the way up to the battery. (This should take the longest especially when using a “Common grounds/locations”)
Testing components in-between the wiring harness “Correctly” is the sole responsibility of the person diagnosing the electrical problem just because its new doesn’t mean it works as designed. (This includes the wiring harness)
I know you probably already have most of this figured out but get us the facts. last known hot power location in reference to the starter including switchs.
I sure hope you have digital multi-meter
-Trev
Last edited by camcamaro1991; 10-19-2010 at 05:32 PM.
10-19-2010, 11:54 PM
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So you are using a 3 wire alt. The bolt coming out of the back is your charge connection to the battery. On the plug, the thicker wire goes to the positive on the batt. nnd the smaller one to an ignition source.
10-20-2010, 05:08 PM
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Wiring Schematics would be very helpful;
I personally don’t know why anyone would ask for help and not provide us wiring schematics especially since its aftermarket.
90% of all electrical problems/errors can be located in less than 60 minutes on almost every automobile.
Trash In = Trash Out, start with a good “known” power source 12.6 volts. Follow the path of electrical power starting at the battery (using a good “known” ground), through each section check your final power output & ohms of resistance for each section if it applies, “Double check all connections” and fuses,switchs, relays, power distribution blocks etc... .
Then move all the way up until the power is missing/not hot (then check the actual component/load).
Also check all grounds starting at the “Electrical load” through every ground connection all the way up to the battery. (This should take the longest especially when using a “Common grounds/locations”)
Testing components in-between the wiring harness “Correctly” is the sole responsibility of the person diagnosing the electrical problem just because its new doesn’t mean it works as designed. (This includes the wiring harness)
I know you probably already have most of this figured out but get us the facts. last known hot power location in reference to the starter including switchs.
I sure hope you have digital multi-meter
-Trev
I personally don’t know why anyone would ask for help and not provide us wiring schematics especially since its aftermarket.
90% of all electrical problems/errors can be located in less than 60 minutes on almost every automobile.
Trash In = Trash Out, start with a good “known” power source 12.6 volts. Follow the path of electrical power starting at the battery (using a good “known” ground), through each section check your final power output & ohms of resistance for each section if it applies, “Double check all connections” and fuses,switchs, relays, power distribution blocks etc... .
Then move all the way up until the power is missing/not hot (then check the actual component/load).
Also check all grounds starting at the “Electrical load” through every ground connection all the way up to the battery. (This should take the longest especially when using a “Common grounds/locations”)
Testing components in-between the wiring harness “Correctly” is the sole responsibility of the person diagnosing the electrical problem just because its new doesn’t mean it works as designed. (This includes the wiring harness)
I know you probably already have most of this figured out but get us the facts. last known hot power location in reference to the starter including switchs.
I sure hope you have digital multi-meter
-Trev
i will try to go through and check everything to diagnose.
10-20-2010, 05:10 PM
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ok. that makes sense. and when you said ignition source do you mean like splice it into the wire that runs to the coil?
10-20-2010, 05:23 PM
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Try to stay away from using the same wire that goes to the coil. Use one of the wires thats only hot when the key is in the "on" position. You should be able to find one coming out of the steering column or your fuse panel. Be sure to use a fuse in line just in case and if you are using a wire from the fuse panel tap into it before the fuse of the circuit you are using.
To find out which side is the before(unprotected) and after(protected) side of the fuse just take out the fuse and test the prongs. The side that shows poer with the key on will be the unprotected side. Be sure you tap into the wire from the back and not just force it into the fuse prong.
To find out which side is the before(unprotected) and after(protected) side of the fuse just take out the fuse and test the prongs. The side that shows poer with the key on will be the unprotected side. Be sure you tap into the wire from the back and not just force it into the fuse prong.