Bleeding Clutch with MityVac?
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Bleeding Clutch with MityVac?
I replaced my clutch master cylinder, now i need to bleed the system. I read where a few members bled it with a MityVac so they don't have to have two people to get it done. Can anyone give me a descriptive way to get this done or point me to a good "How to" video
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Fill up the resevoir (sorry for spelling), Get the nozzle piece that will fit down into the hole. Pull a few inches of vacuum and go pump the pedal. Don't pull too much vacuum though. From what i've heard it can blow a seal somewhere yet I haven't had any trouble.
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I filled up the reservoir, put the nozzle in the hose at the bottom of the reservoir, pulled an 11-12lb vacuum for a couple minutes, then pulled the mity vac out of the reservoir. I did this 2-3 times, each time filling up the reservoir.
There is no need to pump the pedal, you are basically pulling all the air out of the system with the vacuum pump and letting the reservoir act as an air-tight environment. The reservoir holds enough fluid to completely fill the rest of the system, so it is important to make sure it is completely full each time you do this.
Chris
There is no need to pump the pedal, you are basically pulling all the air out of the system with the vacuum pump and letting the reservoir act as an air-tight environment. The reservoir holds enough fluid to completely fill the rest of the system, so it is important to make sure it is completely full each time you do this.
Chris
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yeah i've also read that its pretty easy to mess up the seals inside.
i ended up doing mine the hard way until i replaced my clutch, at which time i had a remote bleeder installed.
there is a way to do it one man using the regular bleeder, but you gotta cut a small hole in your floorboard
i ended up doing mine the hard way until i replaced my clutch, at which time i had a remote bleeder installed.
there is a way to do it one man using the regular bleeder, but you gotta cut a small hole in your floorboard
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yeah i've also read that its pretty easy to mess up the seals inside.
i ended up doing mine the hard way until i replaced my clutch, at which time i had a remote bleeder installed.
there is a way to do it one man using the regular bleeder, but you gotta cut a small hole in your floorboard
i ended up doing mine the hard way until i replaced my clutch, at which time i had a remote bleeder installed.
there is a way to do it one man using the regular bleeder, but you gotta cut a small hole in your floorboard
#7
Will be bleeding my clutch using mity vac in a few hour. I'll start by pulling fluid at 11-12lbs now my question is how long should I leave it at this pressure each of the three times? I'm planning on leaving it for a good 3-4 mins each time. Any advise?
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#8
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You want to press down the clutch with the mighty vac pulling suction from the bottom of the master cup. When you press down the pedal the suction of the myghty vac will pull the air bubbles up from the line where it connects into the master
After you push the pedal down with the vac on the resevoir you will have to pull the pedal back up. Repeat thus process while watching the line coming out of the resevoir for the mighty vac with the hood open. You will know it's done when you stop seeing bubbles come up into the vac line that has the sucked brake fluid in it
After you push the pedal down with the vac on the resevoir you will have to pull the pedal back up. Repeat thus process while watching the line coming out of the resevoir for the mighty vac with the hood open. You will know it's done when you stop seeing bubbles come up into the vac line that has the sucked brake fluid in it
#10
I have done it all
This thread is old but they are getting rare cause no one can fix them. This thread is correct to a point. 10 to 12 NO More yes I yelled that. What it does is suck air past the seals so here you go. Flat ground losen u bolt to end of threads on master put mighty vac in hole in res. Pump to 10 to 12 no more hang m vac on hood so you can see the hose from driver seat. Rattle the master back and fourth. Watch bubbles come up check m vac 10 to 12 go back and rattle master continue bubbles should get smaller and less till no moer come up the tupe tighten u bolt pump clutch. If you can double clutch to get it gear drive a mile or 2 shifting double if needed it should fix itself if not go back to 10 to 12 and see if you get air i have tried pre bled dont waste your money it did not work either the 95 camaro has a bleeder and you can use that on a 94 but my bleeding method was what finally did it. Just trying to help keep hair on your head. Thanks
#11
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Here's my suggestion: Tick Performance now offers a remote speed bleeder that doesn't require removal of the transmission. The speed bleeder is the easiest thing to use and now that you don't need to pull the transmission to install, it's a no brainer.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...6-pontiac-gto/
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...6-pontiac-gto/
#12
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You want to press down the clutch with the mighty vac pulling suction from the bottom of the master cup. When you press down the pedal the suction of the myghty vac will pull the air bubbles up from the line where it connects into the master
After you push the pedal down with the vac on the resevoir you will have to pull the pedal back up. Repeat thus process while watching the line coming out of the resevoir for the mighty vac with the hood open. You will know it's done when you stop seeing bubbles come up into the vac line that has the sucked brake fluid in it
After you push the pedal down with the vac on the resevoir you will have to pull the pedal back up. Repeat thus process while watching the line coming out of the resevoir for the mighty vac with the hood open. You will know it's done when you stop seeing bubbles come up into the vac line that has the sucked brake fluid in it
#13
Its easier to use a pressure bleeder as opposed to a mightyvac. The motive one in combo with the tick remote bleeder makes it a 1 man job and it only takes about 30 seconds. Money well spent