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Old 08-19-2015, 08:08 PM
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I have used Miller, Lincoln, Hobart, and honestly all 3 are excellent machines. You can't really go wrong with any of them.

You start getting into the other brands, you start getting hit or miss. I hear people talk about the everlast tig machines all the time but they arrive broken in shipping a lot, and it's only a matter of time before one quits on you. Granted they are good about replacement parts, but it's the hassle that I wouldn't want to deal with.
Old 08-22-2015, 10:31 AM
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miller
Old 08-27-2015, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I have used Miller, Lincoln, Hobart, and honestly all 3 are excellent machines. You can't really go wrong with any of them.

You start getting into the other brands, you start getting hit or miss. I hear people talk about the everlast tig machines all the time but they arrive broken in shipping a lot, and it's only a matter of time before one quits on you. Granted they are good about replacement parts, but it's the hassle that I wouldn't want to deal with.
For what its worth, I got the basic Everlast 140 off ebay. 350 for the Machine, 25 for shipping. Works great, nothing loose or broken. Welded up my exhaust last weekend.

Saving to buy a Tig from them next
Old 08-27-2015, 08:58 AM
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I have been messing with the lincoln 140 pro mig. It works well. I was using 100% argon and .035 wire, which I know is not the best for the material I am using.
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:54 AM
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Awful lot of splatter there and there looks like there's no penetration at all
Old 08-29-2015, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Awful lot of splatter there and there looks like there's no penetration at all
Based on the pipe thickness and the way they are butted together any more penetration and you'd blow a hole through it in half a second. You need a good shallow bead for that particular weld. Method of transfer dictates how much splatter will be there in most cases, meaning it doesn't indicate a poor weld. Though I don't agree with his gas choice, and the weld isn't that pretty, but it looks sufficient for whatever it is he is doing....obviously nothing structural or important. As a matter of fact, most exhaust shops use a particular transfer (not sure off the top of my head) and I believe C02 for shielding to produce very shallow welds on purpose due to the fact that its non-structural and you don't wanna blow through the pipe. You cannot replicate their big wide welds of an exhaust shop with a 75/25 standard wire setup. Once you get the bead hot enough to make such a big weld you would have melted literally inches off the edges of the pipe.

.02 from a welder of 10+ years.
Old 08-29-2015, 07:12 PM
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I don't seem to have any issues with 75/25 with .023 wire, I just keep the wire feed rate up and the heat a little on the low side. Have absolutely zero issues. Pipe fitment, is absolutely critical like everything. I would never fabricate an exhaust with gaps that big.
Old 08-30-2015, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I don't seem to have any issues with 75/25 with .023 wire, I just keep the wire feed rate up and the heat a little on the low side. Have absolutely zero issues. Pipe fitment, is absolutely critical like everything. I would never fabricate an exhaust with gaps that big.
I originally welded at a machine shop, full CNC stuff, the works. Wow what a joy that was to have joints designed down to the 0.001 of an inch. Pure heaven for a welder. Also, Ive done my share of sloppy fit exhaust welds with gaps way bigger then you should have. Fitment is definitely critical........but then it isn't. I mean, its just exhaust ya know. Gotta find your medium between time vs labor and run with it. That's a good point also, on thinner stuff, heat a little lower, wire speed a little faster, and maybe even a little quicker drag speed. Wanna get crazy change to a push angle, that will reduce penetration even more.
Old 08-30-2015, 08:14 AM
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Well aware I probably have a thousand hours with a helmet on, I've burnt over 200 lbs of wire they my 180 Lincoln at home now.

And after it all in still find myself stitching stuff together.... 3 quick tacks on a pipe and smoke locks it in place, and then I can just stitch it and have zero mess, nothing piled up, no burn thru's ever, etc. Everyone has they're own style and find a way to get results.
Old 08-30-2015, 08:28 AM
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I think I'm only on my 3rd or 4th 10 pound spool on my personal Lincoln (owned it probably 6 years). That's been mostly exhaust, trailer stuff, small fabrication trinkets. I don't get to weld much anymore. It's fun though. I've taught a few guys too, got something setup with a guy soon to teach him the ins and outs. If you learn how to weld then you've taught one person, if you teach someone, then it can pass on over and over and over again.
Old 09-02-2015, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Dunno where you heard that but I have a direct contact at Lincoln, all lincoln 180 mig's are built on the same line, and the only difference from a 180 HD, 180 L, and 180 pro, is the packaging. Pro is for a Lincoln welding supply store, HD for home depot, L for lowes.

Buy from wherever you can get the best PRICE. Ebay has people selling brand new machines 80 bucks LESS than lowes or home depot. That's where I bought my 180 Lincoln 5 years ago and it's been a great machine. Everything from thin sheet metal work to 5/16 plate and I have had no issues doing any of them.
The "c" models are the ones the Lincoln dealers carry. The drive assembly and infinite voltage adjustment is the difference between the c and hd/pro models. The hd/pro models use plastic drive gears. Easily swapped if it really bothers you.

To the op, I have a Hobart 140 I bought 8 years ago and it's never let me down. I also have a Lincoln 180 that I've never had a problem with either. I do like the arc better on my Lincoln than the Lincoln. I use a miller at work every day. Figure out what thickness metal you plan on welding. .001 thickness needs 1 amp for good penetration with a single pass. Just a very crude way to figure out how many amps you need.
Old 09-02-2015, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Suncc49
I have been messing with the lincoln 140 pro mig. It works well. I was using 100% argon and .035 wire, which I know is not the best for the material I am using.
100% argon will only work with mig if you're doing spray arc. The Lincoln/miller/Hobart 140's don't have enough voltage for anything other than short circuit. Get some 75/25.
Old 09-03-2015, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by gammey4
100% argon will only work with mig if you're doing spray arc. The Lincoln/miller/Hobart 140's don't have enough voltage for anything other than short circuit. Get some 75/25.
Definitely learned that. I am just a noob and practicing on scrap exhaust. I learn things very quickly though lol....
Old 09-03-2015, 09:24 AM
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75/25 will do pretty much all the welding you will do with a machine like you have, if you want more heat tri-mix will help. I use that with my 189 when doing heavy stuff, like when I'm plating up snow plow brackets that are getting 1/4 inch thick doubler plates due to the holes all getting egged out from years of abuse. Makes good penetration on the thick metal easier, and allows a good single pass stitch to get it done.
Old 09-03-2015, 03:12 PM
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When I welding in the shop for a living, the general rule was 75 25 for carbon steel and tri for stainless (lots of 316).
Old 09-03-2015, 07:08 PM
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Tri mix is generally for stainless but I find the welder seems to create a lot more heat with it. At least for me. I only go to that if I'm trying to do heavy stuff that is pretty much the maxing what the welder is capable of, 5/16 type stuff bracing up things with .032 wire.

Normally I leave .023 wire in the machine and run 75/25 as that seems to work for most things.
Old 09-04-2015, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Tri mix is generally for stainless but I find the welder seems to create a lot more heat with it. At least for me. I only go to that if I'm trying to do heavy stuff that is pretty much the maxing what the welder is capable of, 5/16 type stuff bracing up things with .032 wire.

Normally I leave .023 wire in the machine and run 75/25 as that seems to work for most things.
Straight co2 is cheaper and adds more heat but you get more splatter.
Old 09-04-2015, 10:10 AM
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Nothing I hate more than having to clean stuff after, I look at grinding after welding as a sign of bad welding with the exception of body work... And there's a good reason I don't do it.
Old 10-15-2015, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by gammey4
Straight co2 is cheaper and adds more heat but you get more splatter.
Depends highly on the machine you use... And the skill of the Weldor. A miller passport would be one of the exceptions to that, welds with co2 like butter.



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