So how difficult is it to bleed brakes? - LS1TECH

Go Back   LS1TECH > REGIONAL FORUMS > Western Members
Log In 
Search


Western Members CA, AZ, NV, UT, CO, NM, HI


So how difficult is it to bleed brakes?

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-11-2008, 07:22 PM   #1
TECH Fanatic
 
ReFtheMC's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 6
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: 818/661, CA
Posts: 1,456
Send a message via AIM to ReFtheMC
Angry So how difficult is it to bleed brakes?

So last month i went through the process of replacing my brake pads and rotors. Ever since then my brakes have felt, here comes the word, "Smushy," so i'm pretty sure i let air into the brakes. I did a quick search on the site and found many responses saying that people had to bleed their brakes up to 3 times to get the air out, so here is my question, should i just pay a mechanic to do this for me, or should i do it myself?
__________________
01' Z28
PHK

ReFtheMC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2008, 07:48 PM   #2
11 Second Club
 
camarojunky74's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 14
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: corona
Posts: 539
Default

well get one of your friends to help you out its really easy, shouldn't take more than a few pumps at each wheel, this is of course assuming your master cylinder isn't the cause, id say do it yourself its a piece of cake
__________________
camarojunky74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2008, 07:50 PM   #3
TECH Junkie
 
Soul TKR's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 4
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 3,529
Default

my brakes have been this way for about 3-4 years now... hmmm so this could be the issue... oh well, i've lived with it this long
Soul TKR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2008, 07:57 PM   #4
TECH Fanatic
 
Trader Rating: 18
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Bay area, ca.
Posts: 1,203
Send a message via AIM to jermzz
Default

The key is to start furthest away from the master and work your way up. Have someone pump the breaks and let the air out til its just fluid. Do it a couple times at each tire. And make sure the reservoir stays full or you'll just suck more air in.
__________________
00 Z28 m6, 454, 9 inch, built six speed. 586 / 559 - SOLD.

-GMHTP Feature Red '01 SS. Forged 364, PTE76, 12 --bolt, t56 / mcleod twin.
-2005 Silverado SS
-2003 SL500.

Newtech Tuned.
jermzz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2008, 10:05 PM   #5
TECH Enthusiast
 
MJs1FastSS's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 148
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Riverside
Posts: 742
Send a message via AIM to MJs1FastSS Send a message via Yahoo to MJs1FastSS
Default

just did mine today new pads front and rear and c/d rotors and fluid...only took like 45-1hr to flop out....
save the money do it yourself!

good advise from above as well
__________________
CURRENT VEHICLES.|2003 Silverado SS| 2003 Trailblazer LT | 2000 Silverado 2500 |1999 FRC f1r, meth, and nitrous [URL="http://www.facebook.com/michael.lealLSXpowered"http://www.facebook.com/michael.lealLSXpowered[/URL]
My nitrous jets carry more hp than your B16
MJs1FastSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2008, 11:02 PM   #6
Launching!
 
Alex L.'s Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 15
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 232
Default

I don't really see how you would get air in the system changing pads and rotors.. Done it many times without issues. Boiled the brake fluid on track days a few times and within days the spongly feeling would go away as the air exited the system.
Did you replace the brake pads with something cheap?
__________________
Beat up 1998 Formula M6
Alex L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2008, 02:52 AM   #7
Teching In
 
LT Chevyboy's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 1
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 24
Default

Yeah, unless you have a leak, air wouldn't get in from just changing pads. I never bleed when changing pads, I just push the piston back with c clamps and make sure my reservoir doesn't overflow.

If you opened a line for any reason though than you gotta bleed them. All above suggestions were dead on, but I would also suggest bleeding the abs unit under your hood also. There should be 2 male ends, one for front and one for rear calipers. Than bleed back right, back left, front right, and front left lines.

You def need a partner though, and *** the mechanic, why pay when you can do and learn on your own for free??
__________________

'97 Z/28 A4
/ LQ4 6.0 block / 224 cam / LS6 intake / full exhaust / CMS base tune / ! everything
built by SRJ and staff

" Never regret anything, because at one point it was exactly what you wanted " -Johnny Ca$h
LT Chevyboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2008, 02:59 AM   #8
Launching!
 
Black02LS1's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 5
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vista, Ca
Posts: 268
Send a message via AIM to Black02LS1
Default

I agree, air should be getting in just from changing pads, but its not going to hurt to bleed them a bit, but if you do it wrong you are just going to let more air in. I went out and bought what are called solo bleeders from Earl's Performance. They are bleeders with check valves in them. Makes bleeding them even easier and you can do it yourself, no friends required.
PS: I would think about getting some steel braided brake lines, helps out a bit and makes breaking more predictable.
__________________
2003 Electron Blue Z06
Bone stock....for now.
Black02LS1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2008, 09:24 AM   #9
TECH Fanatic
 
ReFtheMC's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 6
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: 818/661, CA
Posts: 1,456
Send a message via AIM to ReFtheMC
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex L. View Post
I don't really see how you would get air in the system changing pads and rotors.. Done it many times without issues. Boiled the brake fluid on track days a few times and within days the spongly feeling would go away as the air exited the system.
Did you replace the brake pads with something cheap?
Quote:
Originally Posted by LT Chevyboy View Post
Yeah, unless you have a leak, air wouldn't get in from just changing pads. I never bleed when changing pads, I just push the piston back with c clamps and make sure my reservoir doesn't overflow.

If you opened a line for any reason though than you gotta bleed them. All above suggestions were dead on, but I would also suggest bleeding the abs unit under your hood also. There should be 2 male ends, one for front and one for rear calipers. Than bleed back right, back left, front right, and front left lines.

You def need a partner though, and *** the mechanic, why pay when you can do and learn on your own for free??
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black02LS1 View Post
I agree, air should be getting in just from changing pads, but its not going to hurt to bleed them a bit, but if you do it wrong you are just going to let more air in. I went out and bought what are called solo bleeders from Earl's Performance. They are bleeders with check valves in them. Makes bleeding them even easier and you can do it yourself, no friends required.
PS: I would think about getting some steel braided brake lines, helps out a bit and makes breaking more predictable.
You guys are good, i was waiting for someone to catch this, haha. But i followed "installuniverity's" instructions and they recommended to let a little bit of brake fluid out of each caliper to make it easier to push the pistons back. I only ended up doing it once because i quickly realized it was unnecessary, so here i am...
__________________
01' Z28
PHK

ReFtheMC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2008, 09:26 AM   #10
TECH Fanatic
 
ReFtheMC's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 6
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: 818/661, CA
Posts: 1,456
Send a message via AIM to ReFtheMC
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LT Chevyboy View Post
Yeah, unless you have a leak, air wouldn't get in from just changing pads. I never bleed when changing pads, I just push the piston back with c clamps and make sure my reservoir doesn't overflow.

If you opened a line for any reason though than you gotta bleed them. All above suggestions were dead on, but I would also suggest bleeding the abs unit under your hood also. There should be 2 male ends, one for front and one for rear calipers. Than bleed back right, back left, front right, and front left lines.

You def need a partner though, and *** the mechanic, why pay when you can do and learn on your own for free??
O ya to answer your question, i used Autozone Rotors and Hawk HPS pads...
__________________
01' Z28
PHK

ReFtheMC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2008, 12:09 PM   #11
Launching!
 
Alex L.'s Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 15
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 232
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ReFtheMC View Post
O ya to answer your question, i used Autozone Rotors and Hawk HPS pads...
That should work well. If you decide to go have a shop do it I would recommend Midas. They have a good pressure system that removes all the old fluid and fills it up with new fluid. Pushes out any air as well. Fairly cheap too but depends on the area. I went there once when my fluid got reaaally old and I thought it would be a good idea.
__________________
Beat up 1998 Formula M6
Alex L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2008, 09:14 PM   #12
TECH Enthusiast
 
MJs1FastSS's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 148
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Riverside
Posts: 742
Send a message via AIM to MJs1FastSS Send a message via Yahoo to MJs1FastSS
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LT Chevyboy View Post
Yeah, unless you have a leak, air wouldn't get in from just changing pads. I never bleed when changing pads, I just push the piston back with c clamps and make sure my reservoir doesn't overflow.

If you opened a line for any reason though than you gotta bleed them. All above suggestions were dead on, but I would also suggest bleeding the abs unit under your hood also. There should be 2 male ends, one for front and one for rear calipers. Than bleed back right, back left, front right, and front left lines.

You def need a partner though, and *** the mechanic, why pay when you can do and learn on your own for free??

thats what i do as well .....hope it turns out good for you
__________________
CURRENT VEHICLES.|2003 Silverado SS| 2003 Trailblazer LT | 2000 Silverado 2500 |1999 FRC f1r, meth, and nitrous [URL="http://www.facebook.com/michael.lealLSXpowered"http://www.facebook.com/michael.lealLSXpowered[/URL]
My nitrous jets carry more hp than your B16
MJs1FastSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


 

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:26 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC2
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Service - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - JOBS
Emails & Contact Details