Heat Cycling Drag Radials?
01-21-2009, 11:01 PM
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Heat Cycling Drag Radials? Well i keep hearing people talking about heat cycling your new drag radials... i think its just a bunch of hoopla.
i called mickey thompson and they have never heard of such a thing, unless everyone is talking about the initial burnout.
can anyone shed some light on this???
i called mickey thompson and they have never heard of such a thing, unless everyone is talking about the initial burnout.
can anyone shed some light on this???
01-22-2009, 02:22 AM
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01-22-2009, 11:07 AM
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thats what im saying, you can barely trust those dip ***** to make sure your lug nuts are not loose or 120ft lbs, your crazy if you think im handing my brand new mickey's over to be "heat cycled"
01-22-2009, 11:32 AM
#5
Heat cyling "R" compounds for Autocross or road race tires does help them live longer and perform better.
That being said, I think a burn out in the water box is far more harsh than the gentle build up of heat in the tires mentioned above.
Personally I would not spend the money on it for my DR's.
That being said, I think a burn out in the water box is far more harsh than the gentle build up of heat in the tires mentioned above.
Personally I would not spend the money on it for my DR's.
01-22-2009, 11:34 AM
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yeah, i was told that check all the local stores and that some offer it and some dont, well i called every americas tire in a 50 mile radius and some of the guys didnt even know what i was talking about, like i said earlier, i think its a bunch off hoopla.
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01-22-2009, 02:06 PM
#8
I heat cycled my Nitto DRs when i had them on my mustang. Made them last about 3 times longer.
This is how a heat cycle works. Do a nice hefty burout, prolly about 15 seconds or so you want them to get HOT. Then you let them cool down for 24 hours. You are treating the rubber.
This artivle explains it more
This is how a heat cycle works. Do a nice hefty burout, prolly about 15 seconds or so you want them to get HOT. Then you let them cool down for 24 hours. You are treating the rubber.
This artivle explains it more
Heat Cycling
Any DOT race tire is extremely sensitive to the first heat cycle of its use. The first heat cycle can determine performance and wear characteristics. The compounds in a new race tire are “green” and its chemical make up is not fully stabilized.
During the first heat cycle, the tread compound stretches as it heats. The heat can also cause changes at the molecular level. During a heat cycle, bonds are broken and reformed that help to make the tread compound more stable.
The benefit of this process is a tread compound that lasts longer and provides better traction. However, if the first cycle is not performed correctly, the tread may develop irregular compounding, leading to poor wear and inconsistent traction.
Some racers try to heat cycle their own tires, with mixed results. This involves bringing the tires up to race temperatures and then “resting” them for 24 to 48 hours while off the vehicle. This process can be inconsistent as the tires may not heat evenly on the four corners of the car. Also, temperatures across the tread face are not always uniform due to camber and scrub. Plus, if this is the owner’s only set of tires, it is inconvenient to mount and dismount the tires before using them to race.
Some DOT race tire suppliers offer heat cycling services, and use machines that heat the tire by applying a load (no artificial heat). These systems generate uniform temperature build up throughout the tread, a condition not achievable on the track. Because there is no cornering involved, there is lateral scrubbing and virtually no loss of tread during the heat cycling.
Any DOT race tire is extremely sensitive to the first heat cycle of its use. The first heat cycle can determine performance and wear characteristics. The compounds in a new race tire are “green” and its chemical make up is not fully stabilized.
During the first heat cycle, the tread compound stretches as it heats. The heat can also cause changes at the molecular level. During a heat cycle, bonds are broken and reformed that help to make the tread compound more stable.
The benefit of this process is a tread compound that lasts longer and provides better traction. However, if the first cycle is not performed correctly, the tread may develop irregular compounding, leading to poor wear and inconsistent traction.
Some racers try to heat cycle their own tires, with mixed results. This involves bringing the tires up to race temperatures and then “resting” them for 24 to 48 hours while off the vehicle. This process can be inconsistent as the tires may not heat evenly on the four corners of the car. Also, temperatures across the tread face are not always uniform due to camber and scrub. Plus, if this is the owner’s only set of tires, it is inconvenient to mount and dismount the tires before using them to race.
Some DOT race tire suppliers offer heat cycling services, and use machines that heat the tire by applying a load (no artificial heat). These systems generate uniform temperature build up throughout the tread, a condition not achievable on the track. Because there is no cornering involved, there is lateral scrubbing and virtually no loss of tread during the heat cycling.
01-22-2009, 02:13 PM
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I heat cycled my Nitto DRs when i had them on my mustang. Made them last about 3 times longer.
This is how a heat cycle works. Do a nice hefty burout, prolly about 15 seconds or so you want them to get HOT. Then you let them cool down for 24 hours. You are treating the rubber.
This artivle explains it more
[/b]
This is how a heat cycle works. Do a nice hefty burout, prolly about 15 seconds or so you want them to get HOT. Then you let them cool down for 24 hours. You are treating the rubber.
This artivle explains it more
[/b]
i have called and talked to mickey thompsons tech guys and they have never heard of heat treating or heat cycling a drag radial, the only advice they gave me is for the first burnout just do it very mildly just till i get a little smoke, then roll out and stage, and the following burnouts should only be a bout 2 seconds long. depending on track temperature and so forth.
01-22-2009, 02:15 PM
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and what testing or documentation did you do to come up with your nittos lasting 3x longer?
a lot is depicted on tire life, for drag radials its going to be staging, and tire pressure .
a lot is depicted on tire life, for drag radials its going to be staging, and tire pressure .
01-22-2009, 04:44 PM
#13
it is a mustang. the best i trapped with my 97 GT every bolt on possible, full exhasut, 4.10s...I ran a 14.01 @ 96.28 with a 1.75 60'
and to answer your other question. At the track i would fill the fronts to 40 psi, the rears to about 13 psi. On the street all around got 34 psi
