Any full weight n/a m6 f-bodys here?
03-23-2013, 02:07 PM
#1
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
Any full weight n/a m6 f-bodys here? Just wondering what kind of power it would take to run a 10.99 in a 3800 lb f-body without power adders. Has anyone here done it? What kind of setup?
My motor ate a cylinder so I'm thinking about doing a 6.0 iron block with my PRC 5.3s and a larger cam than my t2. My current times are in my sig but I'm hoping to pick up .3 with my next combo
.
My motor ate a cylinder so I'm thinking about doing a 6.0 iron block with my PRC 5.3s and a larger cam than my t2. My current times are in my sig but I'm hoping to pick up .3 with my next combo
.
Last edited by big dave; 03-23-2013 at 05:18 PM.
03-23-2013, 02:48 PM
#3
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
03-23-2013, 02:50 PM
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Howell & Fenton MI
Posts: 11,145
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
15 Posts
Still damn good times, and especially at 426 rwhp and full weight! I just got my car a few months ago (no track time yet) but it dynoed 405 on one dyno and 460 on another, so I was just curious where yours was at
03-23-2013, 04:14 PM
#5
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
I actually dynoed 413 with the ls6 intake but added the FAST90 and the 12 bolt at the same time and picked up 13 rwhp. I think I would've picked up a little more than 20 rwhp with the FAST alone. They say the 12 bolt normally costs 10 rwhp on the dyno.
03-23-2013, 05:02 PM
#6
03-23-2013, 05:17 PM
#7
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
Trending Topics
03-23-2013, 10:10 PM
#10
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
03-24-2013, 10:48 AM
#11
11 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NW Chicago burbs
Posts: 2,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My race weight was 3850 with me in the car. No A/C, Spare tire, Drag wheels, Fiberglass hood, k-member... was really the only weight removal.
Made 495/505 on a mustang dyno.
Car has been faster N/A I just dont have clean video's of it.
10.89 pass
Made 495/505 on a mustang dyno.
Car has been faster N/A I just dont have clean video's of it.
10.89 pass
03-24-2013, 11:11 AM
#12
[QUOTE] Very impressive ETs & mphat full weight in street trim! From what Ive seen, a M6 car needs a 125mph trap speed and a 1.5x 60' to get a high 10 sec pass. Dont forget the LQ9 is going to add 100lbs to your car.
Just wondering what kind of power it would take to run a 10.99 in a 3800 lb f-body without power adders. Has anyone here done it? What kind of setup?
My motor ate a cylinder so I'm thinking about doing a 6.0 iron block with my PRC 5.3s and a larger cam than my t2. My current times are in my sig but I'm hoping to pick up .3 with my next combo
My motor ate a cylinder so I'm thinking about doing a 6.0 iron block with my PRC 5.3s and a larger cam than my t2. My current times are in my sig but I'm hoping to pick up .3 with my next combo
03-24-2013, 11:21 AM
#13
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=30th t/a;17255987]
Very impressive ETs & mphat full weight in street trim! From what Ive seen, a M6 car needs a 125mph trap speed and a 1.5x 60' to get a high 10 sec pass. Dont forget the LQ9 is going to add 100lbs to your car. Thanks. Yeah, I added the weight of the iron block into my estimates. The car was a little over 3700 lbs before, I guess we'll see what kind of a pig she becomes after.
Very impressive ETs & mphat full weight in street trim! From what Ive seen, a M6 car needs a 125mph trap speed and a 1.5x 60' to get a high 10 sec pass. Dont forget the LQ9 is going to add 100lbs to your car.
03-24-2013, 11:27 AM
#14
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
Wow, that is heavy. I assume you have a roll bar which offset the weight you took out? The car still runs great though. I don't think I'll be making as much power with my new setup and I definitely won't be able to launch like your car with my stock springs and shocks. What did you have to change to get it to launch like that?
03-24-2013, 12:10 PM
#15
11 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NW Chicago burbs
Posts: 2,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No roll bar... I'm not the smallest person in the world lol and I dont usually run the gas tank down to the bare minimum to save weight either. I like to race the car how it would be on the street minus the drag wheels.
The car has stock 1997 springs F&R with QA1 single adj shocks all around. Good launch rpm, tire pressure and shock settings is what it took. I had about 30 passes on the new motor and suspension then went out with a couple of local guys who watched the car and helped me get it down the track after that 1.48-1.52 60' foots were normal.
The car has stock 1997 springs F&R with QA1 single adj shocks all around. Good launch rpm, tire pressure and shock settings is what it took. I had about 30 passes on the new motor and suspension then went out with a couple of local guys who watched the car and helped me get it down the track after that 1.48-1.52 60' foots were normal.
03-24-2013, 12:15 PM
#16
11 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NW Chicago burbs
Posts: 2,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My setup was a 402 with L92 heads, fast 102 and a Pat G cam. Nothing too crazy or race only.
Looking at your video's you seem to be spinning off the line... What rear tires are you using? and shock setup?
I would also get a two step! it works wonders making sure you leave at the same RPM everytime.
Looking at your video's you seem to be spinning off the line... What rear tires are you using? and shock setup?
I would also get a two step! it works wonders making sure you leave at the same RPM everytime.
03-24-2013, 09:19 PM
#17
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
My setup was a 402 with L92 heads, fast 102 and a Pat G cam. Nothing too crazy or race only.
Looking at your video's you seem to be spinning off the line... What rear tires are you using? and shock setup?
I would also get a two step! it works wonders making sure you leave at the same RPM everytime.
Looking at your video's you seem to be spinning off the line... What rear tires are you using? and shock setup?
I would also get a two step! it works wonders making sure you leave at the same RPM everytime.
. The tires are MT et streets. It really doesn't 60' all that well, the 1.63 in the video has been the best so far. I don't dump the clutch, I try to ride it out a bit... I don't know if the clutch likes that too much though, after seeing the discs a couple days ago. I'm using the McLeod RST...awesome clutch!!! Last edited by big dave; 03-24-2013 at 09:55 PM.
03-24-2013, 10:09 PM
#18
11 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NW Chicago burbs
Posts: 2,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mcleod clutches are the ****! I am using the RXT and it has handled all the clutch dumps I put it through with no issues.
Rear shocks made the biggest impact on my 60's and at 156k miles it wouldn't hurt to replace them.
Rear shocks made the biggest impact on my 60's and at 156k miles it wouldn't hurt to replace them.
03-26-2013, 01:29 PM
#19
In +2000ft air mine runs low 11.20s at 123-124mph n/a. That's with a 1.65 sixty (shitty track). Dyno'd 500/450 sae through a moser 9" & 4.33's. Race weight is a portly 3850 lbs. In good east coast air and a decent 60' it would go easy 10's.....We don't get that kinda air around here without a foot of snow on the ground lol!
I tell ya what if I had it to do all over again I think I'd have spent the money for an aluminum block.....the extra 110lbs on the front of the car really sucks, especially when the car is already a pig.
I tell ya what if I had it to do all over again I think I'd have spent the money for an aluminum block.....the extra 110lbs on the front of the car really sucks, especially when the car is already a pig.
