Need advice.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 176
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From: Alton IL
Need advice. Ok ive made a bet with a guy from another web site. Hes around 700whp in a newer supra. This will be a street race from a dig. I have till the end of the season. Alot of money on the line. No rules, "run what you brung" so to speak. Hes not planning on doing anything more hp wize. But ive heard that he could tap 9's if he did an auto swap, which he is thinking about.
My car stock: 2002 Camaro LS1, LS6 block, LS6 Intake, A4 323's, Hardtop.
Ive already done, Fast toys intake, K&N filter, Direct flow Lid, smooth Bellow, loudmouth exhaust with borla muffler. NOS Fogger kit. Other words not that much. But nice for only 300$ total invested.
What I have on the list so far: change to Direct Port system, along with full fuel system upgrade, LT headers, ORY, Cam, valvetrain, 3200 stall, MT Slicks, skinnies up front, springs, relocator brackets, ported TB, rebuilt beefier 4L60E, better rear end. And Ill do a basic interior strip. Probably run Race gas with a large shot of nitrous.
Im also tossing around the idea of a LS2, but then wouldnt be able to put as much into modding the LS2 as i would the LS1(LS6 block) Im considering using my current motor and boring out the block with larger pistons and better rods.
So anyway, my car has 22k miles on it right now. what path would you go? What would be the cheapest to accomplish this one night of all out running, without permantly damaging the motor(like breaking a rod) Let me hear your ideas. Im in the planning stages right now, and would like to jump into this by end of march. Thanks.
My car stock: 2002 Camaro LS1, LS6 block, LS6 Intake, A4 323's, Hardtop.
Ive already done, Fast toys intake, K&N filter, Direct flow Lid, smooth Bellow, loudmouth exhaust with borla muffler. NOS Fogger kit. Other words not that much. But nice for only 300$ total invested.
What I have on the list so far: change to Direct Port system, along with full fuel system upgrade, LT headers, ORY, Cam, valvetrain, 3200 stall, MT Slicks, skinnies up front, springs, relocator brackets, ported TB, rebuilt beefier 4L60E, better rear end. And Ill do a basic interior strip. Probably run Race gas with a large shot of nitrous.
Im also tossing around the idea of a LS2, but then wouldnt be able to put as much into modding the LS2 as i would the LS1(LS6 block) Im considering using my current motor and boring out the block with larger pistons and better rods.
So anyway, my car has 22k miles on it right now. what path would you go? What would be the cheapest to accomplish this one night of all out running, without permantly damaging the motor(like breaking a rod) Let me hear your ideas. Im in the planning stages right now, and would like to jump into this by end of march. Thanks.
427 motor with all the goodies, ( fast 90/90, etc. etc ) and a DP setup, TH400, 12 bolt, slicks.skinnies, shocks, lw seats, k member, a arms, all suspension pieces....
Hope you have about 40 grand to blow unless you are gonna do all the work yourself, in that case, have about 30..... because if you wanna insure a win... that's about what you're gonna spend to do it.
Hope you have about 40 grand to blow unless you are gonna do all the work yourself, in that case, have about 30..... because if you wanna insure a win... that's about what you're gonna spend to do it.
You didn't If you wanna run a 10 second pass once, then a 300 DP shot will do it.. just plan on throwing the motor away after that one pass. If you want to have the car done right, with parts that are gonna last more than one pass and be done, it is gonna cost you alot more $$ than you think. Here's a quick rough list..
12 bolt/ 9 inch $2500
Driveshaft $400
Clutch/converter $1000
Built tranny/ th400 and needed parts $4000
rear suspension stuff, control arms, PHB, reloc. brackets, SFC's, TQ arm $1300
Shocks/ springs $800
Built motor, good heads, etc $ min. 8 grand
All teh assorted bolt on's needed for motor ( including headers ) $1500
Fuel system to support motor, plus NOS $2500
Tuning $500 min.
Tires/rims $1800
Added safety equipment...( cage, etc ) $min 1200 I guess this could be optional, but to go without it is stupid.
That's 25500 Now, if you have this stuff done by a shop with a good reputation so that it will last a while, and actaully all work together properly, it's gotta be a good 10 grand in labor, now add in sales tax.
O.K., it might be a bit under 40K... but I'd figure in extra for when you run into a problem, as there's always a problem on a buildup like this.
Sure there's guys running 10's that haven't done all that... but if you wanna have a car that can do it more than once, and not worry about it falling apart on your way home from this race you plan on having... you'd better plan on doing a damn good portion of it. I hope that this will be at a drag strip also, and not on the street.
12 bolt/ 9 inch $2500
Driveshaft $400
Clutch/converter $1000
Built tranny/ th400 and needed parts $4000
rear suspension stuff, control arms, PHB, reloc. brackets, SFC's, TQ arm $1300
Shocks/ springs $800
Built motor, good heads, etc $ min. 8 grand
All teh assorted bolt on's needed for motor ( including headers ) $1500
Fuel system to support motor, plus NOS $2500
Tuning $500 min.
Tires/rims $1800
Added safety equipment...( cage, etc ) $min 1200 I guess this could be optional, but to go without it is stupid.
That's 25500 Now, if you have this stuff done by a shop with a good reputation so that it will last a while, and actaully all work together properly, it's gotta be a good 10 grand in labor, now add in sales tax.
O.K., it might be a bit under 40K... but I'd figure in extra for when you run into a problem, as there's always a problem on a buildup like this.
Sure there's guys running 10's that haven't done all that... but if you wanna have a car that can do it more than once, and not worry about it falling apart on your way home from this race you plan on having... you'd better plan on doing a damn good portion of it. I hope that this will be at a drag strip also, and not on the street.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 399
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From: Dallas, TX
There is a right way to do it and a wrong way to do it. The right way will cost more, the wrong way will in short time, kill the motor.
If you have 15K to throw around, you may be able to get there. Rebuild it with forged high compression goodies. Find a dual stage n20 kit. You are gonna have to make all your power on the top end. Get a Mossler build Ford 9" with 4.11's and 35 spline gears, detroit locker. If you don't have the money to replace the tranni, don't even touch it, it will get destroyed either way once you got over 500 hp to it, which you will need. And put on all the normal bolt-ons you can muster. If this guy has 700rwhp, and you are not willing to spend some $$$ or ruin your motor, you will lose.
If you have 15K to throw around, you may be able to get there. Rebuild it with forged high compression goodies. Find a dual stage n20 kit. You are gonna have to make all your power on the top end. Get a Mossler build Ford 9" with 4.11's and 35 spline gears, detroit locker. If you don't have the money to replace the tranni, don't even touch it, it will get destroyed either way once you got over 500 hp to it, which you will need. And put on all the normal bolt-ons you can muster. If this guy has 700rwhp, and you are not willing to spend some $$$ or ruin your motor, you will lose.
Originally Posted by Kolk1
Wow, im glad i dont shop where you do, ive never seen prices that high, most are half that, what i pay.
Way I look at it, the only way to do things is either do it right the first time, or don't do it. If you are going to race a car that could potentially run 9's, then you need to build a 9 second car to have a good shot at winning. You are NOT going to build a car to run these kind of times for less than 30 grand unless making one pass and then scrapping the motor and most of the driveline after said one pass. Never mind the r/d time to get this setup to work. If you think that you can toss 700 rwhp in a car and have it go down the track without a bunch of testing, you are dead wrong, and obviously know nothing about a race car, what it takes to build one, and probably have no business being near one, never mind in one.
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Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Alton IL
Ok, i do pay less than retail, but 1800 for rims and tires, dont need rims, only need 2 new rear tires. 1000 for a stall, what brand name are you looking at? I can get Yanks for 400. Tuning 500, nope free. Cage 1200, buddies shop will do it for 300. Built motor 8k, Im not sure how i would go over 4k. Fuel system + nos 2500, I already have almost all those parts, so ill say 500 MAX. If I blow the motor at the end of the season then so be it, its the end of the season, then I will swap everything i can over to a new LS2.
This car will be built to run high 10's all the time, THATS EASY, the only thing that will change is that day, ill add racing gas, do a little more tuning for a larger shot, and run him that night. NO way is this guy going to be able to have enough traction to run 10's on the street. last year with over 600hp he ran 13;s at the track at over 120. Im supprised Homeslice or White2000S10 havent chimed in yet. He ran 11flat with like 300$ all year last year.
I would love to be your guys mechanics, be a millionare by now. I posted this to see what kind of idiotic answers I would get, and the first one took the cake, 40 grand to go 10's. Thats classic, then you change it 22.5k Sucks to live in your world buddy. Im supprised no one has replied thats made it here with just I/H/E, cam, bottle, slicks. I know people do it all the time.
This car will be built to run high 10's all the time, THATS EASY, the only thing that will change is that day, ill add racing gas, do a little more tuning for a larger shot, and run him that night. NO way is this guy going to be able to have enough traction to run 10's on the street. last year with over 600hp he ran 13;s at the track at over 120. Im supprised Homeslice or White2000S10 havent chimed in yet. He ran 11flat with like 300$ all year last year.
I would love to be your guys mechanics, be a millionare by now. I posted this to see what kind of idiotic answers I would get, and the first one took the cake, 40 grand to go 10's. Thats classic, then you change it 22.5k Sucks to live in your world buddy. Im supprised no one has replied thats made it here with just I/H/E, cam, bottle, slicks. I know people do it all the time.
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i wont have a total of 4k in my car, including cam and all the **** that goes with it, including roll bar and tnt kit and everything... and im plainning on 10.50's all day long.. if i had but another 4-5 grand to play with. invest in pistons and rods heads and 12bolt, you'd see me drive to the track and run 9's lol.. its not that hard to do really, its hard to go 10's cam only, its hard to run 7's stock suspension, its hard to run 11.40 bolton only, but its not that hard to outrun a 700hp supra if u got 8-10 grand laying around and spend it right, u will walk his *** from a dig.. key word being dig tho lol. if he has 700hp and isn't god mad work done to the rest of taht car hes gonna run 12.0 at 130mph lmao.. at best he may go a mid 10 imo.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Alton IL
Well, i only had 400$ in mods installed, + rear tires and pulled constant 11.5's with 1.7 60foots and one 1.6 60foot last night. And right now im running rich, and on a small shot. I really need to get my headers on, since my trap speed was really hurting. But with those and my stall installed, i should be getting close, just need to get off my *** and start installing all the **** i got laying around.