LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova
Hmm the ATS pan is really nice but still requires an external oil filter.
Other than that I don't know that much about 1st gen swap-friendly pans.
The stock pan that would require the least amount of mod'ing would probably be a notched f-body pan.
... but it's best to read the huge oil pan-comparo threads, I was kind of stubborn and just went right to mod'ing what I already had!
btw strtlegal... SICK nova you've got there!!!
Other than that I don't know that much about 1st gen swap-friendly pans.
The stock pan that would require the least amount of mod'ing would probably be a notched f-body pan.
... but it's best to read the huge oil pan-comparo threads, I was kind of stubborn and just went right to mod'ing what I already had!
btw strtlegal... SICK nova you've got there!!!
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
OK, so after a long lull, mainly because of school, I have a couple updates!!
First thing is an update of the braking/steering system, I've decided manual 4-wheel drum brakes just aren't gonna cut it, so until I have enough money to do some disk swap, I'm just gonna throw a booster on there. Also, I can turn my car with the flick of a pink no matter what speed I'm going, talk about no road feel!!
I found a Hydroboost from an '06 Colorado for $100 at a local truck junker. I'm gonna combine that with a Heidt's power steering adjuster valve so that I can fine-tune the feel of the steering wheel.
I also had a new line made for the high-pressure side, it cost total under $20, which sure beats buying $18 3ft of Russell braided PS line, and $13 for each of the Russell PS fittings not to mention having to make it myself!!
This is a horribly-taken pic of the new steering line setup with the Hyrdoboost..
The Hydroboost unit itself...
Went to a local hydraulics place and had myself a new hi-pressure line made...
The line uses 37* JIC female fittings, which were $5 each, and $7 for 3.5ft of 4500psi 3/8" hose. Fittings look like...
First thing is an update of the braking/steering system, I've decided manual 4-wheel drum brakes just aren't gonna cut it, so until I have enough money to do some disk swap, I'm just gonna throw a booster on there. Also, I can turn my car with the flick of a pink no matter what speed I'm going, talk about no road feel!!
I found a Hydroboost from an '06 Colorado for $100 at a local truck junker. I'm gonna combine that with a Heidt's power steering adjuster valve so that I can fine-tune the feel of the steering wheel.
I also had a new line made for the high-pressure side, it cost total under $20, which sure beats buying $18 3ft of Russell braided PS line, and $13 for each of the Russell PS fittings not to mention having to make it myself!!
This is a horribly-taken pic of the new steering line setup with the Hyrdoboost..
The Hydroboost unit itself...
Went to a local hydraulics place and had myself a new hi-pressure line made...
The line uses 37* JIC female fittings, which were $5 each, and $7 for 3.5ft of 4500psi 3/8" hose. Fittings look like...
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
And next was a revision of the fuel system. I've mentioned the general idea of it previously in this thread, but here is another description...
Fuel gets sucked out of stock tank with stock fuel sender, so that I don't have to modify the tank or shell out $$$ for a stainless one. However, this poses a problem 'cuz the fuel sloshes around a lot, and we don't want that beautiful LS engine to get starved.
So, I have a low-pressure (carb) electrical fuel pump suck gas out of the stock tank, and pumps it to the front of the car. This gas gets dumped into a skinny but tall fuel "surge" type tank with an outlet at the bottom of it. Now assuming the tank is not even half-full, in order to starve the outlet at the bottom, the car would have to be doing way over 1g laterally, or be upside down (
), so this should be plenty fine. A Walbro 255 pump feeds off the bottom, and pumps into a Corvette FPR, which has a return going back to the fuel surge tank. The surge tank has another outlet, a fuel return going back to the stock car gas tank.
Crappy pic of setup...
Aforementioned fuel "surge" tank...
Walbro fuel pump & Corvette FPR from previous setup...
Pretty, pretty, fittings...
Resulting tank setup...
last but not least, this picture was too cute not to include..
Fuel gets sucked out of stock tank with stock fuel sender, so that I don't have to modify the tank or shell out $$$ for a stainless one. However, this poses a problem 'cuz the fuel sloshes around a lot, and we don't want that beautiful LS engine to get starved.
So, I have a low-pressure (carb) electrical fuel pump suck gas out of the stock tank, and pumps it to the front of the car. This gas gets dumped into a skinny but tall fuel "surge" type tank with an outlet at the bottom of it. Now assuming the tank is not even half-full, in order to starve the outlet at the bottom, the car would have to be doing way over 1g laterally, or be upside down (
), so this should be plenty fine. A Walbro 255 pump feeds off the bottom, and pumps into a Corvette FPR, which has a return going back to the fuel surge tank. The surge tank has another outlet, a fuel return going back to the stock car gas tank.Crappy pic of setup...
Aforementioned fuel "surge" tank...
Walbro fuel pump & Corvette FPR from previous setup...
Pretty, pretty, fittings...
Resulting tank setup...
last but not least, this picture was too cute not to include..
An LH8 pan is the one that comes in the Hummers, I believe.
Which pan are you unsure of drag link clearance issues, the LH8 one? It should have plenty of room, because it's sump is 8.5" long as opposed to the truck one with is 9.75" long, and the truck one clears my steering even though my engine is moved forward approx. 1 inch.
ATS motor mounts are really nice billet peices (for $140)..
and S&P/Carshop ones are identical, but much more inexpensive!...
All 3 of those put the engine in the same place. I believe the Hooker ones put it forward a little bit more..
Which pan are you unsure of drag link clearance issues, the LH8 one? It should have plenty of room, because it's sump is 8.5" long as opposed to the truck one with is 9.75" long, and the truck one clears my steering even though my engine is moved forward approx. 1 inch.
ATS motor mounts are really nice billet peices (for $140)..
and S&P/Carshop ones are identical, but much more inexpensive!...
All 3 of those put the engine in the same place. I believe the Hooker ones put it forward a little bit more..
i don't know if you remember or not but i sent you a pm a while ago about your swap, since i'm doing a similar swap on my nova. i'm getting ready to order parts for the swap at least what i need to bolt it in anyway... so my question is about the mounts, you said that the ones you used moved the engine forward about an inch.. and that the hooker mounts were going to move it even further up?... i seen another topic and they were saying that the hookers set the engine the furthest back and the edelbrocks were close to that.. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...edelbrock.html so do you know who is right?... and isn't the engine better off closer to the firewall for clearance and weight distubution?.
any help would be appreciated.
thanks again.
david.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver BC
looks good Joe, are you up and driving again? ill be watching for you out at MRP, you must be curious as to what it will run.
good to know about the mount location and pan height. i think ill try to mount my eng in stk location so i dont have to mess with the driveshaft. while i cant afford to finish my bbc, ill try out this lq4 i have here in my 69 acadian.
good to know about the mount location and pan height. i think ill try to mount my eng in stk location so i dont have to mess with the driveshaft. while i cant afford to finish my bbc, ill try out this lq4 i have here in my 69 acadian.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
hi GIZZ, cool to see another west-coaster on these forums, good luck with putting the lq4 in the '69! I'll definitely try to make it out but it likely won't be till well into summer, when i'll be returning to vancouver to get a summer job and thus actually have time to work on it.
Mine has a '69 Acadian dash, but at some point in it's life all the emblems on the outside got shaved, and the vin declares it as a Nova, but the stamped ID tag on the driver's side of the firewall has a different configuration than what the internet says a Nova's tag should look like, so I can't decipher it/have no idea if mine is american or canadian. do you have much expertise when it comes to acadians?
Mine has a '69 Acadian dash, but at some point in it's life all the emblems on the outside got shaved, and the vin declares it as a Nova, but the stamped ID tag on the driver's side of the firewall has a different configuration than what the internet says a Nova's tag should look like, so I can't decipher it/have no idea if mine is american or canadian. do you have much expertise when it comes to acadians?
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver BC
stuff gets swapped around for sure, my old 63 acadian had a full nova ss interior swap as far as i could tell. this is my 3rd nova/acadian but im no expert, i guess you saw this already? http://www.novaresource.org/c72.htm
i just ran out and checked my '69 tag, it breaks down exactly like the link. it looks like it was assembled in michigan. i dont think this tag will tell you where it was orig sold, i suppose you could call these guys http://www.gm.ca/gm/english/shopping/parts/vintage or check your regi, icbc sometimes lists if its an import or not, on all the newer stuff at least.
i just ran out and checked my '69 tag, it breaks down exactly like the link. it looks like it was assembled in michigan. i dont think this tag will tell you where it was orig sold, i suppose you could call these guys http://www.gm.ca/gm/english/shopping/parts/vintage or check your regi, icbc sometimes lists if its an import or not, on all the newer stuff at least.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
frojoe,
Do you have any close ups of the motor sitting on the mounts. You say you "flipped" them, but I am not sure what you flipped and would like a visual. I am in the process of putting a LQ4 in my '72 Nova so this thread is a wealth of knowledge. I am really looking to keep the truck intake because I already have it and they breath well.
Second question. What is the depth of your truck oil pan at the front of the engine. I can see you modified it and wondered if a F-body pan would be shallow enough to clear.
Your car looks kick *** and this thread is a life saver...
Thanks
Do you have any close ups of the motor sitting on the mounts. You say you "flipped" them, but I am not sure what you flipped and would like a visual. I am in the process of putting a LQ4 in my '72 Nova so this thread is a wealth of knowledge. I am really looking to keep the truck intake because I already have it and they breath well.
Second question. What is the depth of your truck oil pan at the front of the engine. I can see you modified it and wondered if a F-body pan would be shallow enough to clear.
Your car looks kick *** and this thread is a life saver...
Thanks
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
mikem77...
I would have used an f-body pan but to be honest I was too cheap to find/buy/ship one!! Modifying the truck one only cost me an 18pack, how can I complain? Well I can, I wished it was just a bit shallower (providing more ground clearance).
To answer your question, if you look at the SBC short&wide engine mounts...
..the horizontal hole on them is closer to the top hole than it is the bottom two holes (at least they are on my autoparts store/OE replacement mounts, maybe they're just cheap) so in order to get the horizontal hole on the engine mount to line up with the horizontal hole on the frame-side mount, I had to flip the adapter plates and switch sides, so that the driver's side looks like this...
...as opposed to what the driver's side is supposed to look like, this...
Make sense? I think I might have some pics on my home computer, I'll check when I get home later tonight.
I would have used an f-body pan but to be honest I was too cheap to find/buy/ship one!! Modifying the truck one only cost me an 18pack, how can I complain? Well I can, I wished it was just a bit shallower (providing more ground clearance).
To answer your question, if you look at the SBC short&wide engine mounts...
..the horizontal hole on them is closer to the top hole than it is the bottom two holes (at least they are on my autoparts store/OE replacement mounts, maybe they're just cheap) so in order to get the horizontal hole on the engine mount to line up with the horizontal hole on the frame-side mount, I had to flip the adapter plates and switch sides, so that the driver's side looks like this...
...as opposed to what the driver's side is supposed to look like, this...
Make sense? I think I might have some pics on my home computer, I'll check when I get home later tonight.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
I'm thinking I might switch to an F-body or autokraft pan in my attempt to beef up the oiling system now that I'm considering turbo'ing it.
i got pan and mounts for $500.00 shipped, before i decided on an autokraft, i called S&P to see what there moddied f-body pan was...holy crap if you dont have a core to send back it ended up being almost $600.00 for just the pan...this pan is sweet, and it actually brakes up the motor a little bit, gives it that race car kind of feal...
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Yea that cost is really what has been holding me back from an aftermarket pan like that, but I'm sure it's really sweet.
Oh and by the way strlegal I've said it before but... SLICK ride man!!
Oh and by the way strlegal I've said it before but... SLICK ride man!!
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Frojoe,
Thanks now it makes sense. I will need to pick up a set of the short & wide mounts but that shouldn't be hard. Do the short and wide mounts use different mounts on the frame?
It looks like the mounts available from Autokraft are set up exactly as you are showing.
Here is a picture.
I am still undetermined on the oil pan route, but if I get the Autokraft mounts I will probably just get their pan and pickup too.
Thanks now it makes sense. I will need to pick up a set of the short & wide mounts but that shouldn't be hard. Do the short and wide mounts use different mounts on the frame?
It looks like the mounts available from Autokraft are set up exactly as you are showing.
Here is a picture.
I am still undetermined on the oil pan route, but if I get the Autokraft mounts I will probably just get their pan and pickup too.
I can totally understand the money thing...and thanks for the props on the ride...caint wait to drive it..