2000 SS Camaro. Full interior, full body car. lq4 rotating assembly, block milled .010. Pistons .017 out of the hole for .034 quench 10.6:1 compression. Patriot stage 2 ls6 heads, tick Ls2 torquemax stage 2 (.231/.235 .625/.605 111 Lsa) stock ls6 intake and TB, 1 7/8” speed engineering long tubes, ory and slp lm1. T56, 4.10s in a 10 bolt, adj lca and relocation brackets, stock torque arm, 315/35/17 toyo proxes tq radials. No idea on power, hopefully 410-420ish. Hoping for 11.80s or so. Plenty adept at no lifting a t56 through 4 gears on the street. Just got this combo running though so after a tune and some break in miles I’m heading to the track.

 

You should reach your goal with that combination and I'm sure you already know what your weak link will be in the setup.

 

trust me I’m praying that 10 bolt gives me one good pass! I’m sure there have been plenty of 10 bolts cutting 1.7x 60’s out there

 

Clutch dumps and 400+ rwhp are not 10 bolts friends that I can assure you but do it anyway...

 

I definitely think it will have 11 second speed, it'll be how it 60's. it has the power to get there. I was always scared to grenade it, but now I can't say anything though I am going to launch my ten bolt on boost and bias plys MT and see what happens before we pull the t-56 out. If he dies.....he dies.

 

Here’s the car on a pull from this weekend. It had a ls1 with a cam and LT in it before so the tune isn’t miserably far off but I think I can hear it spark knock in 3rd. I let out at 110 because the straight runs out of room.

 

It looks like your clutch is drawing inertia from your engine at an excessive rate, which first causes the tires to spin. As an engine loses inertia, it also loses rpm. The loss of rpm in-turn reduces the engine's horsepower output. At some point the engine loses enough horsepower that it can no longer spin the tires, so the engine bogs. That excessive inertia draw rate is also hitting your 10 bolt with more impact than it needs to.

You can fix a spin/bog problem with a clutch hit controller, which allows you to adjust your clutch's inertia draw rate. Your 60' would improve dramatically and your 10 bolt would be much happier!

Grant

 

quoting all you guys with this one. Car made 422hp at 6050 rpm and 410 tq at 4800. First time to the track I got two passes in 4 hours and went 12.27 at 117 soft launching it with a 1.96 60. Went back tonight and straight off the trailer, didn’t check air pressure or anything I went 11.93 at 118.6 on a 1.82 60’. So pumped about that et on a fat street tire and full trim car. I was the first guy down the track so I was able to get two runs back to back before anyone really got through tech. Second run the car didn’t move an inch and I’ll be ordering a new rear end soon 🤣🤣

Right lane

 

get a good rear end in it and a good tire and you're mid 11s with that mph!

 

A new rearend won't fix your clutch tuning problem. If you had addressed the clutch first, you could be a hero running mid 11's on the 10 bolt.

Clutch engagement rate is a pretty common tuning blind spot. Most think if the clutch is slipping, all the engine's power isn't making it to the track. In reality, a non-slipping clutch is holding them back. A properly slipped clutch not only softens the impact sent to the drivetrain, but it also allows the engine to produce more power. That power increase more than offsets the loss of efficiency due to slip. Car ends up quicker/faster while inflicting less pain on the drivetrain.

Grant

 

I’m listening… I would like more details on how to go about setting up clutch for slip!

 

The goal for a good 60' is to keep the engine rpm up where it makes power, which means something has to slip until the car has gained enough ground speed to keep the engine at or above it's torque peak. Since the OP has radials which need to dead hook, the clutch needs to do all the slipping not the tires. Given his gearing and a 1.50 60' target, the clutch needs to slip for about one full second in first gear to keep from pulling the engine down below 4800.

The more torque capacity a clutch has, the faster it pulls the engine down when you dump the clutch, also the sharper the impact sent to the drivetrain. Most install an aftermarket clutch and think nothing of putting a 650tq capable clutch behind a 450tq engine, not realizing that excess clutch torque capacity is what leads to bog/spin problems. A proper clutch for the OP's 425tq application only needs about 2500lbs of clamp pressure on an organic disc to hold the engine after the shift into 4th gear. Aftermarket single disc 10.5" diaphragms are usually around 2800lbs, typical solution to that problem is to shim the aftermarket pressure plate until it barely holds after a WOT shift into high gear.

Even after the PP clamp pressure is optimized for the application, you still won't have enough clutch slip for a proper radial launch. Simple way to get what you need during launch is to add a clutch hit controller. A clutch hit controller can momentarily reduce clamp pressure, which allows the clutch to slip longer than it otherwise would in 1st gear, long enough for the car to gain enough ground speed to keep the engine operating up where it makes power.

Optimizing the clutch for the application has the side benefit of reducing the peak impact sent to the drivetrain, allowing one to put more power thru a 10bolt before reaching the failure point.

For those with an overkill clutch that don't want to go thru all the trouble of shimming the pressure plate for the application, an alternative solution is to add a ClutchTamer. A 'tamer can be set up to give you all the slip you need during launch, while also momentarily reducing clamp pressure after shifts made using the clutch pedal. A pretty common misconception is that you only want the clutch to slip during launch, truth is there is more to clutch tuning than just dialing in the launch. For proof just look at the data logs from any fast adjustable clutch car, it's pretty common to see half a second to a full second of clutch slip after the shift into high gear. They could easily adjust their clutch for less slip after the shifts, but data tells them the car is quicker and more consistent with the slip.

Grant