Introducing our 408 LT1 short block
Introducing our 408 LT1 short block This is a 408 LT1 shortblock. With good heads that go 320+ CFM like TFS and AFR LTx heads 525+ at the wheels has been made.
Core Block LT1
Eagle 4340 SBC 4.000 Crank #435340006000 for
LT1 one piece RMS
Callies Compstar 6.000 SBC Rods W/ ARP 2000 rod
bolts W 2.000 Big Ends
Wiseco Custom Pistons (No Power Adders any
compression)
Wiseco GFX Piston Rings
ACL MS909 H Main Bearings for 350 SBC
ACL CB 663 H Rod Bearings for 2.100 SBC
Chamfered Race Bearings
Durabond CH 8 SBC Cam Bearings uncoated
Eagle 400 SBC Splayed Caps 18 degree
ARP 4-Bolt Main Studs without windage tray for SBC
Freeze plugs kit and Misc
pm for pricing, this is an informational thread
Core Block LT1
Eagle 4340 SBC 4.000 Crank #435340006000 for
LT1 one piece RMS
Callies Compstar 6.000 SBC Rods W/ ARP 2000 rod
bolts W 2.000 Big Ends
Wiseco Custom Pistons (No Power Adders any
compression)
Wiseco GFX Piston Rings
ACL MS909 H Main Bearings for 350 SBC
ACL CB 663 H Rod Bearings for 2.100 SBC
Chamfered Race Bearings
Durabond CH 8 SBC Cam Bearings uncoated
Eagle 400 SBC Splayed Caps 18 degree
ARP 4-Bolt Main Studs without windage tray for SBC
Freeze plugs kit and Misc
pm for pricing, this is an informational thread
Durability wise there really haven't been any issues. The main problems with Eagle are balance (having to add weight) and out-of-spec measurements (enlarged pilot hole, flywheel centering ring too large and small diameter crank snout).
I take it at least the pan rails will have to be block filled?
I take it at least the pan rails will have to be block filled?
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 3
From: West Linn, Oregon
99blancoSS - FYI I spec'd this out when I was thinking about a new motor, and Diamond pistons have the pistons and rings for that setup in the catalog if you didn't want to deal with custom Wiseco stuff, and it is cheeper and I think better too...
As for the issues here a 408 LT1 based off the stock block is for N/A purposes only as the CH of the piston is barely over an 1", this is why you state no power adder, but I can tell you there isn't much of a market for that unless they race in a N/A series like I do, most guys looking for power out of an LT1 will be looking to use some sort of power adder because it is half the price of the headwork required to make the same ammount of power...
As for the issues here a 408 LT1 based off the stock block is for N/A purposes only as the CH of the piston is barely over an 1", this is why you state no power adder, but I can tell you there isn't much of a market for that unless they race in a N/A series like I do, most guys looking for power out of an LT1 will be looking to use some sort of power adder because it is half the price of the headwork required to make the same ammount of power...
I have to ask the power adders out there.
All the up keep of nos, all the gear to set it up, replacing the bottles, etc. does that not all add up? why not just put the money your putting in that nos set up and up keep and put it into the engine and not have to worry with it?
i have not done much research but from what i seen turbos and super chargers are at least $4k. so if u built a 400 rwhp LT1, add turbo or super you will spend more $ than what 99blancoSS can do for turn key 525+ rwhp.
All the up keep of nos, all the gear to set it up, replacing the bottles, etc. does that not all add up? why not just put the money your putting in that nos set up and up keep and put it into the engine and not have to worry with it?
i have not done much research but from what i seen turbos and super chargers are at least $4k. so if u built a 400 rwhp LT1, add turbo or super you will spend more $ than what 99blancoSS can do for turn key 525+ rwhp.
I take it at least the pan rails will have to be block filled?
O RLY? Who?
99blancoSS - FYI I spec'd this out when I was thinking about a new motor, and Diamond pistons have the pistons and rings for that setup in the catalog if you didn't want to deal with custom Wiseco stuff, and it is cheeper and I think better too...
As for the issues here a 408 LT1 based off the stock block is for N/A purposes only as the CH of the piston is barely over an 1", this is why you state no power adder, but I can tell you there isn't much of a market for that unless they race in a N/A series like I do, most guys looking for power out of an LT1 will be looking to use some sort of power adder because it is half the price of the headwork required to make the same ammount of power...
As for the issues here a 408 LT1 based off the stock block is for N/A purposes only as the CH of the piston is barely over an 1", this is why you state no power adder, but I can tell you there isn't much of a market for that unless they race in a N/A series like I do, most guys looking for power out of an LT1 will be looking to use some sort of power adder because it is half the price of the headwork required to make the same ammount of power...
upkeep from bottles belts and hoses to rings jobs is a turn off for some people. This was a customer request, but I have had a few request for LT1 stuff.
Since we like to build big n/a stuff I figured I would post this as an option to the usual 355 and use a power adder to make it fast build. Its just an option for someone looking for 500+ from their LT1. You don't need n2o or FI or to break the bank to do it.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; Jun 30, 2009 at 04:00 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo 11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 3
From: West Linn, Oregon
sounds good, but like I said you will spend more in the heads to make power N/A then you would in a power adder, but then again I would be looking for much more then 500+ for mine...
But FYI - I was looking through my stuff when I thought about a 408 and those catalog parts from Diamond are 11925 for the pistons and 09084030 for the ring pack to make a good high HP 408 LT1...
But FYI - I was looking through my stuff when I thought about a 408 and those catalog parts from Diamond are 11925 for the pistons and 09084030 for the ring pack to make a good high HP 408 LT1...
Very nice package, I don't know why there is so much NA hate from the LTX crowd. I wanted 500 to the wheels NA through a stalled auto but don't have the cam to do it - went a bit smaller so I can masquerade it as a street car 
. If it was a 6sp it would break it, but I'm not here to race dyno's 
.
Mine flow 330+ @ .6 
. You wont get near that out of factory castings, but in the hands of a good enough porter aftermarket castings like AFR and TFS can do it. Hell, even the old canfield heads worked over will flow 325+ and they are like 10 years old .
. If it was a 6sp it would break it, but I'm not here to race dyno's .. You wont get near that out of factory castings, but in the hands of a good enough porter aftermarket castings like AFR and TFS can do it. Hell, even the old canfield heads worked over will flow 325+ and they are like 10 years old . 
I can think of a NA LT1 making those numbers at the wheels with ported stock heads and later trickflows with an 8" nonlockup converter a auto tranny an 9" rear on pump gas.
I don't see why someone else could not do it adding 25ci more.
I would guess the 2.00 rods are how the clearance is gained to avoid water.
The Eagle CAST stuff is a nightmare waiting to happen, the forged just has dimensional issues not durability ones. The dimensional issues are not a durability problem so long as they are caught and dealt with by the machinist. Eagle stuff properly, measured corrected and assembled holds up just fine. If you are one of the people who gets dimensionally incorrect parts it will just cost you extra to resolve, making the cheap parts less of a bargain.
I don't see why someone else could not do it adding 25ci more.
I would guess the 2.00 rods are how the clearance is gained to avoid water.
The Eagle CAST stuff is a nightmare waiting to happen, the forged just has dimensional issues not durability ones. The dimensional issues are not a durability problem so long as they are caught and dealt with by the machinist. Eagle stuff properly, measured corrected and assembled holds up just fine. If you are one of the people who gets dimensionally incorrect parts it will just cost you extra to resolve, making the cheap parts less of a bargain.
what does your car run?
I can think of a NA LT1 making those numbers at the wheels with ported stock heads and later trickflows with an 8" nonlockup converter a auto tranny an 9" rear on pump gas.
I don't see why someone else could not do it adding 25ci more.
I would guess the 2.00 rods are how the clearance is gained to avoid water.
The Eagle CAST stuff is a nightmare waiting to happen, the forged just has dimensional issues not durability ones. The dimensional issues are not a durability problem so long as they are caught and dealt with by the machinist. Eagle stuff properly, measured corrected and assembled holds up just fine. If you are one of the people who gets dimensionally incorrect parts it will just cost you extra to resolve, making the cheap parts less of a bargain.
I don't see why someone else could not do it adding 25ci more.
I would guess the 2.00 rods are how the clearance is gained to avoid water.
The Eagle CAST stuff is a nightmare waiting to happen, the forged just has dimensional issues not durability ones. The dimensional issues are not a durability problem so long as they are caught and dealt with by the machinist. Eagle stuff properly, measured corrected and assembled holds up just fine. If you are one of the people who gets dimensionally incorrect parts it will just cost you extra to resolve, making the cheap parts less of a bargain.
Although certainly not secretive 
Car is sitting in my garage with the last combo in it, so now - still mid to high 11s NA .
New engine is sitting on an engine stand waiting on time to tear down and install it all. Taking longer then expected since my plans went from just a refresh, to a rebuild, to a shortblock, to a totally new engine.
A few people have shown interest in the build, but I am waiting to start a thread until there is more to show then a bunch of pretty pictures.
.New engine is sitting on an engine stand waiting on time to tear down and install it all. Taking longer then expected since my plans went from just a refresh, to a rebuild, to a shortblock, to a totally new engine.
A few people have shown interest in the build, but I am waiting to start a thread until there is more to show then a bunch of pretty pictures.
Customer confidentiality. Seems silly to some but a lot of racer's we deal with do not want people knowing whats under the hood. HKE is my engine builder and his integrity is never in question. I asked him to spec out a combo for 500+ rwhp from an LT1.
So from his experience (proven LT1 cars that run with his engines in them
including the 525+ from an LT1 w/auto trans) he spec'ed this build.
Is 500+ from an Lt1 common?? Heck no, no one said it's an easy task either. But it can and has been done.
DO a search on HKE and you will see his long blocks make big power. We've seen 600+ rwhp from an LS1 408 as well
HKE built, Gforce tuned. Customer confidentiality. Seems silly to some but a lot of racer's we deal with do not want people knowing whats under the hood. HKE is my engine builder and his integrity is never in question. I asked him to spec out a combo for 500+ rwhp from an LT1.
So from his experience (proven LT1 cars that run with his engines in them
including the 525+ from an LT1 w/auto trans) he spec'ed this build.
Is 500+ from an Lt1 common?? Heck no, no one said it's an easy task either. But it can and has been done.
DO a search on HKE and you will see his long blocks make big power. We've seen 600+ rwhp from an LS1 408 as well
HKE built, Gforce tuned.Id love to see some numbers on this auto 525+rwhp LT1 car that you know about. Post some graphs, also let us know what the specs are on his solid roller and what single plane he is using.
Tony.
So the point of this post is for a 408 to be advertised yet handled in the same way the blind faithful lemmings were suckered into buying those sooper secret "custom" grind cams that were allegedly supposed to make a horrendous amount of horse power over those evil off-the-shelf brand name cams.
You are absolutely right. This is extremely silly to say you can build a 408 to make big power yet then expect people to believe you can w/out proving how...
So if I were to become a prospective customer, how far into the process would it take for me to find out you can actually build a 500 plus rwhp 408 including timeslips to back up the dyno numbers?
You are absolutely right. This is extremely silly to say you can build a 408 to make big power yet then expect people to believe you can w/out proving how...
So if I were to become a prospective customer, how far into the process would it take for me to find out you can actually build a 500 plus rwhp 408 including timeslips to back up the dyno numbers?
No where did i say cheap. I only said from my research, it would be cheaper to build 500 rwhp engine, than a 400 rwhp engine then add a turbo or super charger.
maybe i am wrong, because i am rather new at this.
as far as making 500 rwhp from an LT1, ever heard of advanced induction?
I have no way of knowing if their results are 100% real, but they sell 2 different heads that they say 1 will give 525+ rwhp with supporting modifications. the other they say can go past a little beyond 600 rwhp with the right cam, valvetrain, etc.
my guess is they know what their talking about though, they got cars runnin in the 9 seconds.
if blanco said he built one and dynoed and it got 500+ i believe it
maybe i am wrong, because i am rather new at this.
as far as making 500 rwhp from an LT1, ever heard of advanced induction?
I have no way of knowing if their results are 100% real, but they sell 2 different heads that they say 1 will give 525+ rwhp with supporting modifications. the other they say can go past a little beyond 600 rwhp with the right cam, valvetrain, etc.
my guess is they know what their talking about though, they got cars runnin in the 9 seconds.
if blanco said he built one and dynoed and it got 500+ i believe it