going back tomorrow for the last time in a little while... Going to leave the shocks alone and experiment with tire tressure. I dont want to change lots at once so that I can see whats actually helping me or hurting me. Also going to try launching at 2500ish.

 

the 12.60 run I wasnt stalled up ready to go when the light changed, so my timing was all off.

 

3.73 gears and you'll get a 1.6 60ft.

 

find out what your max stall is before the tires start spining... do it on warmed up tires and lower tire presure.. dont mess with the shocks, seems fine the way you have them, but tire presure should come down for sure.

wish you the best on your next run

ps..another free mod that will help a little bit is takeing off your front sway bar, will help with weight transfer....good luck

 

so u think that running them at 26psi where they are alot more apt to loose traction at any point down the track is alot more safe then running then at the psi they hook and are intended to be at? ive never heard or seen anyone my self and close friends included running a dot slick or even a drag radial at that kind of pressure at the track.

 

He's not spinning, therefore having the rear squat on launch hurts times. You're wasting energy by letting the shock compress. Learn about how cars work, before spouting BS off that you know nothing about. He's not on street tires or racing on the street.
Lowering tire pressure is a common way to get 60s down if you're spinning. If you're not, again, its a loss of energy and more rolling resistance on the big end. If he stiffens the shocks we would be more likely to spin, then he could lower the tire pressure until it hooks. Lowering it to 15psi as recommended previously, might not hurt the 60', but it's not gonna help and it won't be as fast at speed and like I said less stable.

 

Yeah, that's gonna happen. 12.4s @ 108 isn't the type of car that over powers the tires at half track. Do you're friends ride around on their DRs on that street at 15 psi or do they pump em back up to 25 psi like most everybody else who drives DRs on the street. I wonder why people do that? It couldn't be because the car is more stable, huh?

Not that this even matters in this case, I doubt the notices mush difference on a tire like ET streets. They're just not that stable anyway. My point was that having less pressure isn't going to help this guy 60' any better, if he is dead hooking already.

Jon

 

Depending on how many runs you can get in, I wouldn't touch anything at first, find out what rpm the cars leaves best at. I've seen alot of these fuddles being left at 1000-1500 for their best times. Start at just above idle (I mean just give the car enough gas to air moving through the TB, maybe 100rpms above idle) and go up 500 rpms at a time. Once you find what general area is working best for you, then work on fine tuning it. And remember if it starts spinning all of a sudden, that would mean that its trying to leave harder even though the 60' and overall time would be worse. Adjust tire pressure accordingly.

Or listen to the guy with the 6 speed car that's not even running 12s.

 

how much squat do you think he is going to hav with an auto, not a whole lot with his stall and hp... so he should still be fine where he has them

 

That's the whole point of the shocks. Do you think that an M6 has more squat. This guy is cutting 1.7 60's let me know when you pull that off. I mean, if you don't think that it's gonna squat anyway then why not stiffen the shocks up. The point of soft shocks is to handicap a car that doesn't hook. For instance if the car isn't setup correctly or running a less than adequate tire or racing on the street (or shitty track prep). But if you have a car that works, a sticky as hell track or more tire than what you need (the case here) then there isn't any need to squat. It would be much better to go all the way hard on the shocks and lower the tire pressure to get the car to hook (if it were spinning).

Do you think this guy is at the limit? If this was your car, would you just be fine that it ran 12.48? 12.1-12.2 are not out of the question here, in fact it's expected (unless the race weight is stupid high). But if he doesn't play with anything he won't learn anything.

That's the problem with a lot of the cars on this board, people run a good number and they are happy, even though the car (or engine) is capable of a much faster time. They just don't know how bad off they are.

What does your car run at the track?

 

good stuff, i feel owned big time

well i hav only seen m6's squat hard enough to make a real big dif launching at 5k... and yes tires wont hook and they were spining.. so thats why we would set them soft in the rear, we did medium settings and we got a btr 60ft with the soft setup... like you said thats on a m6...

my ws6 is stock and i can only get the best of a 13.3 @ 107.76 with a 2.1 60ft.. and thats all stock (stock heads,stock cam,stock intake) 2000 ws6 with free mods (no power steering, no front sway bar, and on a diet, cutout and msd wires)... and thats driveing like a mad man... dosnt even hav the ls6 intake and still has smog crap... dont think its that bad

going to take my mustang soon and it has a c4 with 3000 stall converter with a manual vave body... i hav kyb agx's in the front and back.. i set the front 75% stiff and the back 50% stiff... sound good? b4 i was on the bottle and had a stock aod with a shift kit.. would only stall out at 1300 so nvr got enough squat to care so put the rear at 50% one reason i advised him to soften them up...

 

Front should be soft to help with weight transfer. Start in the middle and do one adjustment at a time.

 

best this time out was from a 2200 RPM launch. Left the tires and shocks alone for the run. I actually ran every pass in the 12.40's and got the 60 foot down to a 1.72. ****** is consistant, thats for sure!

the higher RPM launch felt kinda weird though, instead of just snapping right away, it seemed like the tires just hazed for a quarter second, and then it was Gone... Lots of breakdowns that night so I didnt get to experiment any more.

Going back a week from tonight because the weather and track prep shold be the best they've been all year.

New time in Sig

 

NICE RUN !!!! But I have to say with your LS1 and All mods listed you would actually run slower in AZ. Slicks or Street Tires. 12.4 is nice but trap speed is no offense weak. Id change the gears and cam in a heart beat if you got the money...... overall nice.

 

13.3 @ 107 trap nothing personal I just done buy it. Ive never seen a bone stock LS1 trap 107 thats high 13.3 on a good sure with slicks....... Im not calling you a liar butin all my experience in AZ I have NEVER seen a bone stock LS1 Z-28 OR SS TRAP THAT HIGH... REGUARDLESS..... Very nice to trap that high.....

 

What's your point?

 

Really now. Fbody for life... are you done yet?

Your built LT4 runs slower times with SLIGHTLY higher traps than an almost stock LS1.

JonCR96Z - I run my Nittos 15psi street or track. If you run them anywhere near 20+ the middles wear out 10x faster than the outsides... so you end up with bald tires in the middle and a lot of tread left on the outsides. So they wear more evenly, giving more traction and longevity. Just my experience, but it works for me. Still running 15psi the middle is worn SLIGHTLY more than the outsides, but nothing major. Overall, these tires are happy at 15psi.

And you're comment about stability is true. I never take fast, sharp corners or any excessive speed so I'm not too worried about it.

 

Well, the tire should be flat to the ground. Whatever PSI that is, is what you should run.

 

well like i said its stock (heads,cam,intake) but i took off alot of stuff, i still consider it bone stock.. no power steering, no front sway bar, no rear seats, every free mod you can think of... and msd wires and new set of spark plugs.. thats it... i live in california.. and thats the best out of 10 runs.. dont be mad

 

ps what do you ls1 guys consider stock... im new to the ls1 scene, and i always go by if it still has stock heads,cam,intake... i know if you change one thing its not factory stock, so if i take something off is it still stock? lol i hav gotten into a lot of arguments like this.. someone i would race (at the track of course) will find out i hav free mods yada yada yada, then there like "YOUR NOT STOCK!!!" lol... so maybe i should start saying free modd performance