z28SSilvest

Ran for the first time the other day and ended up with a 12.4xx @ 120 mph with a 2.24x 60 foot. What can I do to get in the 11s without having to change the stock rear out? I definitely have to fix the 60 foot, but even with a 2.0, wouldn't I be around 12 flat - 12.2?

Currently have everything listed below with Viking coilovers on the front (rears are going on this week). Rest of the suspension is stock.

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

if you cut a 1.6 sixty foot you will be in the 11's. are you running street tires at the track? i would get a set of drag radials? Do you still have your front swaybar in?

z28SSilvest

I will be happy with an 11.999 lol. Yes that run was with Nitto Invos (street tire). And yes still have the front sway bar in. Only problem with drag radials would be the fear of blowing my 10 bolt.

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

ditch the front swaybar when you go to the track it will help with weight transfer and set those shocks on full loose also.

z28SSilvest

Really? I've read an upgraded sway bar would be a lot better but never heard of taking out the sway bar. And that's the plan for the rear coilovers. Maybe 1 click for rebound and compression.

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

that trap speed is good for low 11's. take the front sway bar off like others have said

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

front swaybars are for street cars,lol, they have no business on a drag car. Mine hasnt been installed in years and i daily drive my car.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

Front sway bar off, drag radials, would say minimum 4k launch and let the clutch out slow but quickly lol. Don't dump it just let her ride out and stab it. Front a click or 2 away from loose.

z28SSilvest

Gotcha. Well then the front sway bar will come off when I do the rear coil overs. I plan on getting a lot of run time at the track this year. Any extra maintenance necessary since I will be running it hard a lot? Also have another daily driver that can be used if something were to break.

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

no extra maintenance required i just give my car a very thorough inspection before i go to the track. check bolts, fluids, etc.

z28SSilvest

Yeah usually the same here. Ill be changing oil around 2500 miles and may flush the transmission and differential fluid as well soon (they have 67k). Hopefully the LS3 holds up

LS1rob00

iTrader: (9)

I was wondering why the car was doing almost 121mph with such a small cam, I overlooked the LS3 part lol.

As others have said ditch the front sway bar, and lose the street tires in lieu of some drag radials. 10 Bolt's have been known to break at most any power level so no matter what you have to be aware of that. The key to keeping them alive is knowing how to launch without putting too much stress on it. M6's put more stress on them than A4's but with some control it ain't hard to keep them alive.

Just do a decent burnout and try launching from different rpm's. I would say 4000rpm is a good place to start and go from there. Like zmg00camaross said, slowly but quickly lol. Doesn't make sense but essentially you need to just quickly slip the clutch. DO NOT DUMP IT. When you slip the clutch it will reduce the shock to the driveline i.e. not jeopardizing the good ol 10 bolt as much. Just make sure not to slip it too much or it'll burn up a tad and not work too well the rest of the run lol. Seat time is your friend! Once you get a good feel for it, it's easy to replicate.

With a 1.9 60' you should be in the high 11's no problem. Once you get a real rear in there and can start launching hard the car should do mid-low 11's no problem with your mph.

As far as maintenance before the track, just basic stuff. I usually make sure I have fresh oil, diff fluid, and spark plugs (obviously not every track outing but more than normal since I beat on the car), clean clutch fluid every time, clean air filter (or just take it out at the track like some people do). Oh and don't forget to wash it, that's good for at least 10mph lol .

If you don't have any weight pulled yet you can take out all the basic stuff. Every bit counts! Only a 1/4 tank of gas when you're racing.

Hope all of this helps and that you meet your goal. Honestly you're just a decent 60' away from 11's. Cheers

high impact

iTrader: (5)

With a 6 spd I would avoid drag radials and find a pair of bias ply rear tires such as et street, hoosier qtp or similar. A bias ply tire will absorb some of the shock from that clutch and hopefully help that 10 bolt live for while.

I my ls7 clutch started slipping at 118 trap speed so be careful with that clutch. You easy have 11's by just lowering that 60 foot.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

As far as maintence goes besides the fluids and stuff, check lugnut torque. Don't want to be popping studs and lose a wheel. Often forgotten but important.

Red97GT

so to unbolt sway bar on one side do you simple just remove one of these bolts?
Is one side better than the other to remove?
I dont want to take it out completley just free it up while at the track.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

When I'm on the track my sway bar is gone but I like it too much on the street. Takes yours off if you need help hooking.
Get some better tires.
Get that 60' down and you should have low 11s close 10s if you hook with the mph you have.

z28SSilvest

I'm probably actually not going to take the sway bar out unless I start getting extremely serious with dragging. Right now it's just a hobby. Also I plan on a larger cam and some new heads later down the road so maybe one day I will be in the 10s as of now i will be happy with 11s.

sabersaw30

iTrader: (10)

No dont take them bolts out just unbolt the links at the end of each side of swaybar. Your just unhooking it from suspension so the car will lift.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

I forget that I even deleted my sway bar lol.

Rob and co. Have all provided solid advice. Look forward to seeing your results in the future.

Redsledz28

Yea man like everyone has said the sway bar and some tires would get you where you want to be easy. Just dont scatter the rearend lol