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01 Trans Am 12.28 @113.79, need your input?

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Old May 8, 2015 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
I would not even bother with that, Imo it is solely in your 60'
What were your 60' times when you had your 2.73's? Because I would think at my power level I should be able to but a 1.7 at least wouldn't you? Gears are the only thing I can think of. Hopefully after I try the things you guys mentioned I can cut a 1.7 and get a 12.0-12.1. If not then I'll start looking for a read end from a m6 ss or ws6.
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Old May 8, 2015 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by scotty2000ss
SSRA will pick ya up maybe .2 but you have a WS6. Why not get the JAAM?
I haven't looked at that one yet so I'll check it out. Is there a way to seal the lid to the hood the way it is now? Because I would think removing the baffles and sealing the hood would have the same results wouldn't it? not sure if I've read of anyone doing that after removing the baffles.
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Old May 8, 2015 | 10:16 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...ts-2014-a.html
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...6-ram-air-kit/
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Old May 8, 2015 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Deeohgie69
What were your 60' times when you had your 2.73's? Because I would think at my power level I should be able to but a 1.7 at least wouldn't you? Gears are the only thing I can think of. Hopefully after I try the things you guys mentioned I can cut a 1.7 and get a 12.0-12.1. If not then I'll start looking for a read end from a m6 ss or ws6.
Ya I went to 3.73's before converter.
When I was stock converter on drag radials my best 60' was 2.0x
With 3.73's and yank 3600 I have zero problems with consistent 1.7x 60'
Best of 12.39 with a 1.71 60'
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Old May 9, 2015 | 12:03 AM
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Not sure if I'm ready to spend $210 on that just yet, I think I will try sealing the hood to my slp lid and see how that works first for a free mod.

Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
Ya I went to 3.73's before converter.
When I was stock converter on drag radials my best 60' was 2.0x
With 3.73's and yank 3600 I have zero problems with consistent 1.7x 60'
Best of 12.39 with a 1.71 60'
I think that pretty much shows proof that gears do help your 60' stalled or not as far as I'm concerned. Can't argue with that....you have a better 60' than me and I have a cam dead hooking lol
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Old May 11, 2015 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Deeohgie69
Not sure if I'm ready to spend $210 on that just yet, I think I will try sealing the hood to my slp lid and see how that works first for a free mod.



I think that pretty much shows proof that gears do help your 60' stalled or not as far as I'm concerned. Can't argue with that....you have a better 60' than me and I have a cam dead hooking lol
The 2.0x 60' was stock converter and 2.73's also, not with 3.73's
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Old May 11, 2015 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
The 2.0x 60' was stock converter and 2.73's also, not with 3.73's
I'm keeping my eye out for a 4 channel 10 bolt with 3.42's from a m6 ss or ws6 right now. I was talking to a guy at work that ran 11.80's cam only and 10.52 @129 on spray. He said what you guys did about trying to launch at 2000rpms and go up 200rpm each launch I broke traction and checking my 60' each run. What's your thoughts on running without an air filter at the track? He said he never ran one, but I don't really see how it could help much unless the filter is just plain dirty?

Also, I've read that a lot of people just hotlap without letting their cars cool down and it doesn't affect their et. How long do you guys let your cars cool between runs, if any? It's showing that tomorrow and Wednesday is the only days it isn't going to rain. So as long as I don't get called into work (because I'm on call 24/7) then I'll run Wed and post my slips.

One more thing, I've read that the 3.42's for a 2 series carrier are stronger than from a 3 series, but are heavier. Does anyone know or have experience with this? I'm wondering if that added weight is worth it if it will be stronger and make the rear end hold up longer.
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Old May 11, 2015 | 02:19 PM
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Is this car still on stock tune?

With a cam and stall, leaving a lot on the table without a proper tune. If I missed it, my bad.

I would do that, a proper ram air and play with the launch, you'll get mid 11s in good air.

- Drew
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Old May 11, 2015 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by typedRew
Is this car still on stock tune?

With a cam and stall, leaving a lot on the table without a proper tune. If I missed it, my bad.

I would do that, a proper ram air and play with the launch, you'll get mid 11s in good air.

- Drew
Yeah, it's tuned. I have 2.73 gears......This was my first time at the track with a stalled car so I just floored it without trying to launch brake stalling. I dead hooked, and the car does have more in it. I had the plate in my borla where it went through the muffler, da was 1554. I really don't see this car with 2.73's hitting mid 11's without gears because my 60' is horrible. It's also a full weight car, but I don't plan on weight reduction. What do you mean "proper ram air"?

Here is my tuners car, so I'd say it's a "proper" tune.

Here's the builders car that he tunes as well.

Last edited by Deeohgie69; May 11, 2015 at 09:38 PM.
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Old May 12, 2015 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Deeohgie69
I'm keeping my eye out for a 4 channel 10 bolt with 3.42's from a m6 ss or ws6 right now. I was talking to a guy at work that ran 11.80's cam only and 10.52 @129 on spray. He said what you guys did about trying to launch at 2000rpms and go up 200rpm each launch I broke traction and checking my 60' each run. What's your thoughts on running without an air filter at the track? He said he never ran one, but I don't really see how it could help much unless the filter is just plain dirty?

Also, I've read that a lot of people just hotlap without letting their cars cool down and it doesn't affect their et. How long do you guys let your cars cool between runs, if any? It's showing that tomorrow and Wednesday is the only days it isn't going to rain. So as long as I don't get called into work (because I'm on call 24/7) then I'll run Wed and post my slips.

One more thing, I've read that the 3.42's for a 2 series carrier are stronger than from a 3 series, but are heavier. Does anyone know or have experience with this? I'm wondering if that added weight is worth it if it will be stronger and make the rear end hold up longer.
As far as no air filter, I have tried it just cause with no difference, I would not bother with it.
And I have hot lapped my car and would say I got slightly slower each run, it's a fact the cooler the motor the more power you will make. I will usually wait a half hour or more between runs. If ya wanted you could take the thermostat out on track day if your trying to get everything out of it causing it to run as cool as possible
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Old May 12, 2015 | 08:42 AM
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Gears would make a huge difference for the money.
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Old May 12, 2015 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by black02-z28
Gears would make a huge difference for the money.
If it were me, that would be my next mod! Roughly around $500-600
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Old May 12, 2015 | 10:37 AM
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Gears or a rear end upgrade,you need to do it sooner or later.

I did it sooner and sold my still working 10 bolt for $150.00 just to get rid of it.
.
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Old May 12, 2015 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
As far as no air filter, I have tried it just cause with no difference, I would not bother with it.
And I have hot lapped my car and would say I got slightly slower each run, it's a fact the cooler the motor the more power you will make. I will usually wait a half hour or more between runs. If ya wanted you could take the thermostat out on track day if your trying to get everything out of it causing it to run as cool as possible
That's kind of what I was thinking too. I'll leave it in then and show up to the track when they open so I can let it cool down a bit.

Originally Posted by black02-z28
Gears would make a huge difference for the money.
Originally Posted by scotty2000ss
If it were me, that would be my next mod! Roughly around $500-600
Originally Posted by transamtom
Gears or a rear end upgrade,you need to do it sooner or later.

I did it sooner and sold my still working 10 bolt for $150.00 just to get rid of it.
.
I'm looking for used 10 bolts and ring/pinion gears right now. I'll probably keep my stock 10 bolt as a backup since it only has 19k on it.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 07:59 AM
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I agree with all the input so far...
My experience = (cam only, SS3600, 3.42 gears)
-My car has picked up .3 tenth on DA alone!!
-Cutout was worth 10hp on dyno (back to back pulls)
-Try different launch rpm (mine does best @ 1500)
-Air rear tires up until you start having traction issues (mine are @ 28)fronts are at 42
-I installed a SSRA Jaws but haven't been to track with it yet

Best motor pass 11.5x 1.63 60'
Nitrous pass in sig

Keep working on that 60' and GL
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Old May 13, 2015 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ragtopz28
I agree with all the input so far...
My experience = (cam only, SS3600, 3.42 gears)
-My car has picked up .3 tenth on DA alone!!
-Cutout was worth 10hp on dyno (back to back pulls)
-Try different launch rpm (mine does best @ 1500)
-Air rear tires up until you start having traction issues (mine are @ 28)fronts are at 42
-I installed a SSRA Jaws but haven't been to track with it yet

Best motor pass 11.5x 1.63 60'
Nitrous pass in sig

Keep working on that 60' and GL
What stall do you have? I was reading last night about different brand stalls, different cars like different launches. Some say just mash the gas, others are 1100-1300. some 1500, then others are 2200-2500. Since I worked last night I'll get to go to the track tonight, so hopefully I can drop a tenth. I'm not expecting much though after reading about gears and peoples 60' with 2.73's.

Going out to take the plate out right now and air my fronts to 42psi. My backs are at 22.5 and after the runs they are 25.5-26psi. I'll play with that if I start having traction issues. I think the DA will be a little better here tonight than last time and would be happy to see a 12.0. But I've pretty much came to the reality of me needing gears. I didn't think it was going to go well with the wife since in the last few months I've bought drag radials, bmr adj lca's, bmr adj torque arm, and bmr adj panhard bar, but she said ok lol. So if anyone knows someone by the St Louis are that has a 4 channel 10 bolt with 3.42's shoot me a pm.

I'll post my results tonight after I get back. Thanks for everyone's input and help. I'll also post results after I find a rear end.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Deeohgie69
What stall do you have? I was reading last night about different brand stalls, different cars like different launches. Some say just mash the gas, others are 1100-1300. some 1500, then others are 2200-2500. Since I worked last night I'll get to go to the track tonight, so hopefully I can drop a tenth. I'm not expecting much though after reading about gears and peoples 60' with 2.73's.

Going out to take the plate out right now and air my fronts to 42psi. My backs are at 22.5 and after the runs they are 25.5-26psi. I'll play with that if I start having traction issues. I think the DA will be a little better here tonight than last time and would be happy to see a 12.0. But I've pretty much came to the reality of me needing gears. I didn't think it was going to go well with the wife since in the last few months I've bought drag radials, bmr adj lca's, bmr adj torque arm, and bmr adj panhard bar, but she said ok lol. So if anyone knows someone by the St Louis are that has a 4 channel 10 bolt with 3.42's shoot me a pm.

I'll post my results tonight after I get back. Thanks for everyone's input and help. I'll also post results after I find a rear end.
Yank SS3600. As stated earlier, each car is different, mine just happens to like 1500. That being said, my theory is the more you load the gear/drivetrain the longer the 10bolt will last before
My old bolt-on vert w/2.73 gears did a best of 1.84 60' with a 2800 stall, so don't give up on the gears just yet on improving your times.
You got front sway bar removed?

Last edited by ragtopz28; May 13, 2015 at 01:37 PM.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 02:13 PM
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Don't under estimate the ram air mod. That and gear upgrade is money well spent IMHO. I really don't think you can spend that amount on anything else and get the same or better result.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ragtopz28
Yank SS3600. As stated earlier, each car is different, mine just happens to like 1500. That being said, my theory is the more you load the gear/drivetrain the longer the 10bolt will last before
My old bolt-on vert w/2.73 gears did a best of 1.84 60' with a 2800 stall, so don't give up on the gears just yet on improving your times.
You got front sway bar removed?
I still have the sway bar on. I know it sounds stupid because I've already modded it, but it still only has 19,xxx mi on it lol. I want to run it like it will be on the street if I can. I'm going to get a baseline tonight and just floor it from idle like last time so I know where I'm at when I start trying different launches. 1.87 is my best 60' so far.

Originally Posted by scotty2000ss
Don't under estimate the ram air mod. That and gear upgrade is money well spent IMHO. I really don't think you can spend that amount on anything else and get the same or better result.
3.42's are next, just waiting to find a rear end. I'm going to probably do that ram air next, there's been others talking about it too. 1-2 thenths and 1-2mph is what they've claimed.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 03:16 PM
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Good to hear. I gained 5mph from a fast 92/92 and chrs1313 in worse DA. Might be even 2mph more if I can go on a night like it was before the mod.
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