In the 12's but 60' seems off *Updated 11/9
#1
In the 12's but 60' seems off *Updated 11/9
Went to the track yesterday with the goal of finally getting back into the 12's after a failed attempt last fall on the stock converter. My car is in my sig, 2000 T/A. Mods are SLP lid, LS6 intake, TSP 1-7/8 headers, ORY, borla mouth, UMI subframes, no front sway and a yank SS 3600 converter. I ran on 17" MT radials and my car has a stock 2.73 gear. My best pass of the night was a 12.85@106 and my best 60' was a 1.85. Basically the ET and 60' were directly related. Most of my 60's were in the 1.9's and my ET's were in the 12.90's. I thought with that stall I would see better 60's. With the stock converter on drag radials I cut a 2.0. Are the 2.73's just that bad??
Update on page 2 (11/9/15)
Update on page 2 (11/9/15)
Last edited by Dark SS; 11-09-2015 at 07:59 AM.
#3
TECH Junkie
2.73's are so damn lame unless you want to roll race from 70 mph - 300 mph
Just a comparison I'm about the same setup but on stock suspension running Mt et streets and with my 3.73's I run consistent 1.7x 60's with a best of 1.71
Exhaust, yank 3600, 3.73's
Just a comparison I'm about the same setup but on stock suspension running Mt et streets and with my 3.73's I run consistent 1.7x 60's with a best of 1.71
Exhaust, yank 3600, 3.73's
#4
I'm running 3.73 with close to same setup,3600 stall, Lt, minimal exhaust, lid, n a free mod or two I don't have n ls6 intake. My best 60' is 1.77 on a dr so far and 1.79 on a street tire 12.63 on both
#5
I guess they are pretty bad but seems like they're only hurting me by about a tenth. I have another rear with 3.23's but no backing plates. The cost to have the rears swapped is more than I thought. I just hate the idea of spending money on a 10 bolt. I have a couple more small mods to do then it looks like I'll stick with the crap rear I have till I can afford a 9" or S60 with a 3.73.
#6
12 Second Club
iTrader: (7)
Swap your backing plates to the 3.23 rear and install it yourself. Swapping out the rears is not difficult, at a leisurely pace it only takes a few hours. This Harbor Freight trans jack works great and you can get it cheaper with a 20% off coupon from a magazine.
http://t.harborfreight.com/450-lb-ca....google.com%2F
I'm not a auto trans guy but I'd imagine the 3.23s would be a step in the right direction.
http://t.harborfreight.com/450-lb-ca....google.com%2F
I'm not a auto trans guy but I'd imagine the 3.23s would be a step in the right direction.
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#8
What was the da on that night or what track n date was it? I personally would just get a set of 3.73's for the 10bolt. I've got 158xxx on my car prolly close to 100 passes on it since I've owned the car 4yrs, it's a 98 who knows how many passes it's actually made and doesn't make a peep, point is they last longer than one might think cuz of all of the hype esp in an auto. people just want u to spend money cuz they're broke with a slow car lol n they want to drag u down with them. not everyone but some, u know what I mean. I say rock it till it brakes but with 3.73's. At ur/ our power level in an auto I almost promise u don't brake it
#9
TECH Junkie
What was the da on that night or what track n date was it? I personally would just get a set of 3.73's for the 10bolt. I've got 158xxx on my car prolly close to 100 passes on it since I've owned the car 4yrs, it's a 98 who knows how many passes it's actually made and doesn't make a peep, point is they last longer than one might think cuz of all of the hype esp in an auto. people just want u to spend money cuz they're broke with a slow car lol n they want to drag u down with them. not everyone but some, u know what I mean. I say rock it till it brakes but with 3.73's. At ur/ our power level in an auto I almost promise u don't brake it
#10
The DA was +1300 and may have dropped off some. I considered getting a 3.73 gear but with 140,000 miles I would need to do something with the diff. I agree that at my current level the 10 bolt would probably outlast the trans but I have a build that I'm in the beginning of. I will quickly outgrow the 10 bolt so I really would rather take any money I would spend on it and put it towards a 9" or S60.
My goals right now are to beat myself. I have a couple more small mods like a Chris1313 and UDP to add to the car. With good air I want to beat my bolt-on 5th gen time of 12.4, I just seem a little far off at a 12.8. My original plan was to do it with the 3.23 but looks like I'm sticking with the 2.73 for now.
My goals right now are to beat myself. I have a couple more small mods like a Chris1313 and UDP to add to the car. With good air I want to beat my bolt-on 5th gen time of 12.4, I just seem a little far off at a 12.8. My original plan was to do it with the 3.23 but looks like I'm sticking with the 2.73 for now.
#11
On The Tree
Lots of auto guys running the 10 bolt into the 10s, just use it and enjoy.
I'd say you should be a bit lower on the 60ft as well, but that can be attributed to trying a few different launches.
- Drew
I'd say you should be a bit lower on the 60ft as well, but that can be attributed to trying a few different launches.
- Drew
#12
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No I don't think this is rear gear related.
With 2.73s I cut consistent 1.7X's and a few low 1.8X's with waayyy less power. You have full intake/exhaust, I just had an SLP lid and Flowmaster cat back. This was on a 4000 stall. Also I was on 555rs which chirped slightly at launch except for my best pass. I also had a small vacuum leak.
My car had enough power/back half to trap 103 most runs. You only trapping 106 with headers/intake and a tighter converter concerns me. You said the DA was 1400, I think mine was around 900-1000. Maybe a tune might be needed to get it running as it should? I'm sure you'd pick up in the 60' as well as on the back half.
How are you launching it? I found a big difference between stalling it up as high as I could vs flashing it. For me, the higher I could stall it up, the harder it hit the tires. Could be that my vacuum leak made the car lazy to tip in throttle.
With 2.73s I cut consistent 1.7X's and a few low 1.8X's with waayyy less power. You have full intake/exhaust, I just had an SLP lid and Flowmaster cat back. This was on a 4000 stall. Also I was on 555rs which chirped slightly at launch except for my best pass. I also had a small vacuum leak.
My car had enough power/back half to trap 103 most runs. You only trapping 106 with headers/intake and a tighter converter concerns me. You said the DA was 1400, I think mine was around 900-1000. Maybe a tune might be needed to get it running as it should? I'm sure you'd pick up in the 60' as well as on the back half.
How are you launching it? I found a big difference between stalling it up as high as I could vs flashing it. For me, the higher I could stall it up, the harder it hit the tires. Could be that my vacuum leak made the car lazy to tip in throttle.
#13
The car has a basic tune on it now from Speed Inc. Maybe a dyno tune is needed. I found stalling it up high was the best technique. That is what go me my PB. I found the same thing with the SS3600 I had in my vette. I was hoping for a 1.7 but I would imagine a 4000 would be worth at least a 1/10th. I wanted a 4000 but found a 3600 used so bought it.