Disagree, look at sig it is a bad *** mod when the box is properly sealed with weather stripping

 

Agreed, I picked up a solid MPH and tenth in back to back testing. I didn't see you out there yesterday. I was filming by the start line, and in the pits with the two cars I mentioned.

I would attribute your lack of MPH to the weather, it was hot yesterday. I have the sunburn to prove it.

 

I saw a red camaro with blackout tail lights.. I didn't see a red trans am other than the pro car..

Were you by the white s/c vette that was there forever?

And what was the deal with that street race, did u stay till the end? there was some major money negotiated..

 

Those were the two cars I was by most of the day. I left around 1:30, had other things to do and it was too damn hot. Tried to DL the video footage last night... all I got was blue screen. The camera appeared to be working fine and recording. So pretty much all the stuff I filmed was a wash.

The No Bull Races are a big deal, lots of money changes hands... and you get to see lots of serious "street" cars.

Put a cut out on your car along w/ the FTRA. Make sure the air box is sealed good and you will see great results once the weather cools down again in a few weeks. You should be very close to 12's at worst, or just barely sneaking in with luck.

 

the black lt1 behind the ws6, did it have silver hockey stripes? if so do u remember what he ran?

p.s. iroc call me when u get chance

 

ps: who has the cheapest price on FTRA..?

 

FYI: Ebay or ls1tech parts for sale is the cheapest got mine for 80 shipped.

 

!!!!!! wow, that would be nice!

 

I have the FTRA and it's a great mod once you start pushing air at high speeds ... at about 70+ mph is where I noticed the difference. Cooler weather, heat the living **** out of Nitto's (you gotta' set 'em on fire for Nitto's to stick), clean your K&N and don't over-oil it about 2-3 days before you hit the track. You'll see 1.8's, high 12.9x, 110 mph ... IMHO ... cool weather is your best friend here.

Handheld Superchips really helped my car out just by setting shift firmness and shift points ... knocking down the rev limiter, as well. Some will say they're worthless, but, if you use one on your TA, you'll see they're far from worthless. You wanna' see 12's? That would be your ticket for sure.

 

Hand Held tuners are worthless....Just take that same money and buy HP tuners...or LS1 Edit...it will do so much more than just change your shift points. You will think you got a cam installed after putting that software on the car(power wise)

 

Would it be better to do that, or get a dyno tune Sick14SecV6 ?

 

HP Tuners if you have the time and patience to learn tuning. It's not mastered overnight ... and buy the extended updates so your version isn't outdated by the time you do major upgrades enough to NEED HP Tuners. You'll be able to use my HP Tuners ... being my neighbor and all ... and get free tunes ... AND I'll teach you how to use it.

People are on both sides of the fence about handhelds. I bought my Superchips for $269.00 on sale over the Internet ... no tax ... no shipping. I re-sold it 2 years later for $200.00. Do you think they would stay in the Handheld business if their product were worthless. Your almost stock and the Superchips tuner stores your cfactory tune and allows you to make basic tuning chnages to fit your needs. My car was where your car is when I bought my Superchips. It worked VERY well for me and it made my car faster for several reasons ... gave me a 22 RWHP on top of being able to set shift point, shift firmness, and knock down the rev limiter.

Right now, you don't need professional tuning software. I'd buy a handhled and meet my near-term goals if I were you. The tuner will easily give you .3 in the 1/4 ... what you need to get into the 12's.

When you do cam/intake/headers, etc., I will tune your car for you for free. Or, take the money and save it or put it towards a good catback/headers. You have a basically stock car ... why would you want to spend $700-$800 when you don't need to??? Unless you want to learn tuning, THEN, I'd buy tuning software.

Too many people will tell you what to do with your car/money ... not knowing a DAMNED thing about your car. Yours is the same as mine ... been through what you're going through. I will only give you advice that has worked for me.

 

What do you mean I'll be able to use yours? Like I could come over and tune my car right now? or what do you mean...

So besides a chip, theres nothing else small...What about TB, MAF, Thermo, and im sure theres other stuff...

Is any of that stuff worth the money for my basicaly stock car.?

 

13.4 seems right for an unmodded A4.

 

1st exhaust, next intake. After that, I'd do suspension and driveline upgrades. Power adders last. I did mine ***-backward and it's STILL costing.

As for a chip. You can't chip our cars without soldering. Nowadays, suing a handhelp tuner is what people call 'chipping a car'. Instead of repalcing the EPROM chip, you simply plug into your OBD II PCM plug on the steering column and set the settings with the Handheld tuner ... same with HP Tuners or LS1 Edit. It's just that you set a basic tune with the handheld programmer.

What I was referring to earlier was that I am buying HP Tuners and will play around with it and start tuning my own car. I'd be more than happy to teach you if you want to later learn the software. Remember, if you buy programmimg software, you have to purchase a laptop or set up a system in your garage with a really long expensive cable. Learning to tune a car takes months of dedicated time, a lot of trial and error, and much experience to know what works and what doesn't.

So, anyone can say, 'Go buy HP tuners or LS1 Edit', but, you have to take into account the expense of a laptop, cost of the software, and more money for version upgrades after the first year of your licensed software. You're looking at about $2,000. I know your situation and I don't think this is the route you want to go ... at least not yet.

 

Your mods are cat-back and a lid/free mods.
Your times seem right to me. IMHO
My SS with only free mods(airbox mod,egr mod) i ran a best of 13.24@104.85 with a 1.99 60ft time(free mods and everything else stock,tires and all).
8.5@83 1/8th.
swap torque convertors and watch how quick your times can get.
With Nitto's and a 4000 stall i can pull 1.61-1.63 60's all day without trouble.

I will even guess at high 1.5's on E/T streets. The stock 10 bolt rear end is not as weak as some people might think.
If worried about it,put a little money into it,put a Girdle on it(T/A cover) that will help some.

Good luck.

Dave

 

I agree ... if a stock 10-bolt was setup right form the factory, it will last a long time with some pretty hig power. I was 360 RWHP/370 RWTQ, but, now I've busted the tranny and I'm selling the rearend and doing a Strange 12-bolt before I grenade my rearend like I did my tranny.

Don't waste your time and money beefing up the 10-bolt. It's a 7.5" rearend and it's weak. You probablt should have kept your TCI, but, I know you were tight on money at the time. That would be a good investmment to buy another one, but, expensive, as you already know.