darrensls1

I'll give you that.

I never disputed that. 5-8 rwhp is average but some have gotten as much as 11 or 12.

0 Yes. 5 rwhp = not a snowballs chance in you know where.

I'll give you 5 rwhp for that.

Maybe for a loudmouth or cutout but not for the flowmaster. Do a search and you'll see that you bought the absolute worst flowing catback on the market. Less flow = less HP.

I'll give you 5.

Didn't you say the car wasn't tuned? Only torque management removed if I remember correctly.

Your numbers are off. The only power adding mods you originally listed are lid, shorty headers, flowmaster and a slight gain from the MAF tricking the computer. That's it. And for those minimal power adding mods you would be lucky to gain 20-25 rwhp.

98 fbody + 25 rwhp + 2.73 + stock stall + KDWS does NOT = 12.7 @ 109. No way, no how.

Either your car didn't run that time, the tracks equipment was off or your car has more done to it then we are being told.

Magnum2571

hah yeah funny thing bout that is i didnt even pay for my MAF, my dad bought a 2000 Z28 to fix up, and it had it on it so he said i could have it haha

Magnum2571

listen darren man, i really dont care what u think, for some reason u are under the impression u know everything about every ls1 in any conditions anywhere, which is ignorant, honestly i really could care less if u dont believe i ran it, im not looking for anyones approval, im just showin what i ran, also u mention my only power adders are lid, shortys, and flowmaster......i also stated my car has the FTRA mod, which doesnt help much but a little, AND my car has the whole A/C system removed which not only reduces weight but is good for some hp bc it deletes the pulley from the compressor, so assuming your 20-25 number, it would now be at least 25-30 rwhp bc of the pulley, that accompanied with the less weight figuratively speaking it would be more like 30-35rwhp gain of all my mods. oh and one more thing my numbers are off THIS SITE so if u dont believe me then i guess ur right and everyone else is wrong, dont believe me?.....https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-owners-newbie-tech/458711-general-et-hp-database-what-s-your-1-4-mile-time.html

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

I know it's easier to say "times in sig" than to type it out again. But when you sell your car run better time and change your sig, then nobody ****** knows. And then the boards get loaded with "what times this, how much power from that". So post the time in the post or don't post.

Jon

supersickss

my stock 2000 a4 on street tires did 13.2 not mid 13's but i think 12.7 is a bit farfetched. and for your friends car, i would be very embaressed with a 12.9

darrensls1

Trust me he was. But again the tuner pulled a little timing for N20. Still his best 60' was a 1.92 which is pathetic for any stalled car running M/T street radials. The 2.73's were really holding him back.

But he now has 3.42's and a 4000 stall. He now gets 1.7's on motor in July heat. I'm sure he'll hit 1.6's in September air.

Magnum, Here is a quote from the first post.

Funny there is no mention of weight reduction or a CAI. If you're gonna list your mods then list ALL your mods including any weight reduction. And as for your link to what mods can add in HP I'm guessing you missed this part from that link:

Please DO NOT take the maximum number for everything and add it together and think you will gain this by adding these mods.

Your average full bolt-on (Intake/Exhaust) Should net you around a 50-70rwhp gain, depending on how well your car responds to the mods that you do.

You don't have LT headers, you don't have an ORY, you don't have an underdrive pulley, you don't have a ported TB, you don't have a "decent flowing" catback, you don't have an EWP and you don't have a ls6 or better intake manifold. You do have 2.73's, a stock stall and street tires which are HUGE handicaps when it comes to launching.

35 rwhp for your very limited mods is unrealistic. And the general rule of thumb for weight reduction is 100 lbs = .1 off your ET (and 10 rwhp likewise = .1 off yout ET). Removing the AC is at best a 50 lb savings making you half a tenth quicker while the CAI should net you at least 5 rwhp for another half a tenth.

Now I hate to say this but it is "possible" that the tracks equipment was off. Have you been back to the track since? If so what did you run? If not then maybe you should to see if you still have a 12.7 @ 108 car. My guess is you have a 13.0 @ 106 car with a decent launch and good air.

Magnum2571

yes darren and in a later post i stated that i had for got about the weight reduction and free mods, if you would have read them all then you would have seen it. AND for the a/c yes its about 50lbs, but its also one less pulley on the engine which would be good for at least another .05 or .1 so now were at a 12.95 or 12.9 according to YOUR guess at what my car can do, and somehow it should seem possible to you the i ran .2 better than u think....and its sayin your average full bolt-on (INTAKE/EXHAUST)
which is not including the EWP, or the underdrive pulley, also if you look at their number in according to the 30rwhp i stated i took the MINIMUMS not even the average......like i said i dont know what you are tryin to prove if you dont believe it WHO CARES, i drove back to schoool got and posted the damn slip for your pleasure, QUIT tryin to stick up for your buddys slow time or whatever your trying to do

SCHP98ls1B4C

iTrader: (2)

honestly your full of **** prove us wrong post a time slip 2.73's and free mods 12.8 @ 109 on street tires on a 98 wake up from that dream smell the coffee

shaolink9

brah anything is possible . This man brought you a slip it may be his it may not be . But **** you may not have a car, we could all be lying our asses off but who cares, half of us will never meet if said he rain 12.7 more power to him jus shows the greatness of our cars. So i say congrats i cant do better than a 9.18 1/8 mile , but some cars are dogs some are a bit frekish and others are average.

SCHP98ls1B4C

iTrader: (2)

when my car was stock i did a complete tune up plugs wires fluids etc i have a very light car its a b4c with 3.23's a lid K&N and free mods and a loudmouth 1 my car went 13.30 @104 on its best pass average was 13.40's out of stock auto 98 with the 3.23 gear on street tires this guy his mph are way too high for auto 109 traps on a a4 means he is making more power then a m6 to the rear tire this guy is full of it sorry man i hate liars

s346k

iTrader: (4)

haha you guys are idiots. out of all the gm engines made, i'd guess the ls1 engine to have the most amount of variance in build tolerances. some cars run HARD from the factory, some are turds. i bought a turd a few years ago. now i have one that runs good. i am seeing both ends of it. i think this timeslip is legit. what does the car weigh? a question i haven't seen yet. perhaps this dude weighs 120lbs and has removed some weight. it's not impossible. my buddy went 1.85 in an 01 b4c with 140k on it. literally the only mods were a lid, pacesetter long tubes and offroad y. car went 12.7 @ 109.

my lid/muffler ta went 108-109 consistently with just those 2 mods. 78k miles on the car with stock everything else. no weight reduction, no tricks, and a nondriver haha. it's not far fetched. for you morons trying to add up his mods to match rwhp...the car only trapped 109, it's not making huge power.

and darren - you know not what you speak of. my bolt-on stalled z28 went 12.2 @ 110 @ 3600lbs...2500' DA. no tricks. just traction and simple mods. stock ls6 intake/tb, maf, pullies, trans, rear (373 gears)...but you get the idea. no ewp, or fast 90 haha. just because your **** is slow doesn't mean everyone else's **** is, too.

darrensls1

That's the reason right there. Two MAJOR mods our friend Magnum doesn't have.

And I'll bet it was an M6 too. Some stock 01-02 M6's have trapped 108 in good air. But we are talking about a 98 A4 which is a whole different ballgame.

Fast 90 isn't the best mod for stock internal cars anyway. But let me ask you this. Did you have LT headers or are you trying to claim you ran 12.2 @ 110 on the stock manifolds, stock cats and stock internals?

I bet you had LT's. Bolt ons + gears + stall makes that time very much the norm.

Really? My time is only .1 / 1 mph slower and my car doesn't have an ls6 intake, pulley or 3.73 gears like yours did. Sounds to me like my car is running pretty well considering adding those three mods should drop at least .2 off my ET. Not to mention the new stall I have hits harder then the old TCI 3500 I was running. I've all ready ran 12.3 in heat. I'm sure I can get a 12.2 out of her in September when the air cools down.

darrensls1

Obviously you do.

I never asked you to post a slip since they can't prove whose car made the pass or what mods it had. But besides all that we have this:

How do you forget what track you were at when you made the best pass of your life? I'm thinking something is fishy here. Like maybe you went looking for anybody you knew with a timeslip close to the numbers you claimed. But that's just my opinion.

This debate is pointless. You know my position and I know yours. Lets just agree to disagree and leave it at that.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

darren...you're trying to split hairs on this dude's car. he has shorty headers, didn't mention offroad y or not, and an aftermarket catback. he has a timeslip and obviously would gain nothing by providing false information about his mods to an internet forum. it just blows me away that a grown man such as yourself, who is obviously not dumb, would argue so much over .2 or 2 mph. i know had the car gone that much slower you wouldn't be saying anything. i think his times are legit, some cars run harder than others. period. no need to call this dude a liar haha and then spend the next 20 posts trying to back up your claim with nothing but subjective information and opinions.

darrensls1

Shorty headers are basically the same as the stock manifolds they provided in 01-02 cars. Very little to be gained there and if he had an ORY then he certainly would have listed that as a mod. And the catback he chose is unfortunately the absolute worst flowing one there is. It's not much better then stock and won't gain as much as a loudmouth, hooker, magnaflow, ect.

People lie on the internet all the time and for a variety of reasons. But again, maybe a previous owner put in a small 220/220 cam and he doesn't even know it. That would explain a 109 trap even with a restrictive exhaust.

It just blows me away that some people will accept anything they read or are told. A good example of that is the whole magic bullet theory our government fed the american public after the JFK assisination.

His 60', ET and trap are all unbelievable for the few mods he has and street tires he was running. I'm not the only one to doubt his claims just like you're not the only one to accept them.

It appears that we will also have to agree to disagree.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

apparently we do have to agree to disgree. however, i will disagree with the shorty header statement and flowmaster muffler statement. i believe the car i have now is a testament to the muffler. and i've seen MANY threads where shorty headers are trapping 110-112 just like long tube cars. i don't feel they become a restriction until you offer a cam with 8*+ overlap.

maybe i should switch to a loudmouth, hooker, magnaflow, etc and trap 110+ with a lid and muffler only. i don't see it happening in central indiana @ 2500'+ da. the muffler is fine and sounds better than any of the ones you mentioned, by far.

darrensls1

Nothing wrong with that.

This is a quote directly from a sticky in the gen III external mod section:


"- Straight through setups like LM and magnaflow (pt# 14267 for just the muffler) are regarded as some of the top flowing catbacks. Flowmaster is one of the worst flowing catbacks for the LS1, it does sound good in its defense. Hooker, Magnaflow, SLP D/D are all great budget cat backs; Corsa, Borla, and GMMG round out the top of the premium spectrum."

And I agree that it does sound good. But you are giving up a little power. It still flows better then stock but just not as good as magnaflow, dynomouth, loudmouth, ect.

Maybe with M6's but A4's would be looking at mission impossible to trap that high with shorties, stock weight and stock internals. Again here is another quote from the same sticky.


"- If you have an 00-02 car do not bother with shorties. They received a better-designed manifold and flow quite well actually for what they are. You will see minimal gain if any by switching to shorties. If you have a 98-99 car you'll gain some rwhp from shorties but it wont be much either."

Like I said before. Shorties will gain a little power for a 98-99 ls1 but no where near what mids or LT's will.

You would gain something by switching to a better flowing muffler. But the question is whether the gain is worth changing the way the car sounds. A lot of people like the way the flowmaster sounds. Some feel the 5 rwhp a better flowing muffler might add is not worth it while others want every last HP and do think it's worth it. To each his own.

Here is the link to the sticky I quoted above if you were interested in verifying my information:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/520845-mod-guide-induction-exhaust-please-read-before-posting.html

LT1Formula007

iTrader: (66)

Just posting up in here to say My 98 Z28 ran a 12.9 @ 109 mph with a SLP Air Lid & K&N Filter, PS LT's, TSP TD's, a stock stall, 2.73's, and no a/c! Not to mention (untuned) with a **** load of DTC codes in the PCM!
My 60' time was a 2.0 with Nitto DR's! Just a lil something to think about... Some cars are freaks and also nobody touched down on this, but the 2.73 A4 cars will usually trap higher than the A4 cars with 3.23 or higher geared ones...
Just My .02

And good Job with the 12.7 pass! I believe It can happen!

James

dannyz

Still ain't buyin the bullshit here.
I just can't see ANY f-body, with 2.73 gears and just the most basi mods running a 12.7.
You DO NOT have the rwhp to do that with the 60' time you listed.
If the timeslip is legit then there has been more done to the car then you have stated.
More then possible that one of the previous owners slipped a small cam in there, and didn't mention it to the dealership on the trade-in or whoever he sold the car too.
There's also a real chance that the track's timing equipment is a little off.
It wouldn't be the first time that something like that has happened.
12.7?
Put the crack pipe down.

darrensls1

I ran 12.8 @ 109 with just a lid, LT's, dynomouth, SSRA and 3.23 gears. Getting a 109 trap through LT's and a free flowing catback is easy. Getting it through shorties, stock cats and a semi-restrictive muffler is a whole different ball game with automatics.

Here is something else to think about. What if you were to remove the LT's and replace them with shorties, put back the stock Y pipe with cats, replace the true duals with a flowmaster and replace the Nittos with KDWS all weather tires. Now go back to the track and find a way to run 2 tenths quicker, retain your trap speed (even though you lost at least 20 rwhp with the exhaust swap) and get .1 off your 60' (even though you went from drag radials to all weather street tires).

Sound like something that's possible to you? Sounds like mission impossible to me.

3.23 geared cars will always be quicker down the track then a 2.73 geared car with all else being equal. There is a reason why people always go numerically higher with gears when they mod. On average a 3.23 geared car will be a couple tenths quicker in the quarter mile then one with 2.73's. Add a stall and sticky tires and that gap may increase due to the severe launching handicap 2.73's impose.

But 2.73's are better for highway races and get better gas mileage.