On the engine stand

On the Dyno

449TQ @ 4700 437HP @ 5400



Heads - STOCK 95 Corvette, no porting, gasket matching, anything done to them besides new Intake valves because the old ones were pitted from water sitting on them.
Pushrods - 7.050" 5/16" Comp Hardened Pushrods
Guide Plates - GM Performance 14011051 Guide Plates 5/16"
Lifters - XLR-8602: .842” SB Chevy, captive tie bar
Springs - 1.290" Beehive Spring 130 lbs @ 1.800", 318 lbs @ 1.200"
Retainers - L.W. Steel Retainer 11/32" 7-degree
Intake Valves - Manley 10576-8
Exhaust Valves - Stock 95 Corvette
Intake Manifold - GM Performance 24502592
Rocker Arms - 1602-16 - Comp Cams Ultra Pro Mag
Camshaft - Intake/Exhaust @ .050" 231/234 .564"/.545" 110 LSA


Carburetor - Holley 0-80770 770cfm Vac Sec
Distributor - 8361 - MSD Pro-Billet Distributor
Wires - MSD 31239 - 8.5mm
Oil Pump - 10554 Melling Select
Timing Set - Cloyes 9-3145 Double Roller
Water Pump - Meziere #680-WP118HD
Harmonic Balancer - 917269 ATI Super Damper
Flexplate - TCI 399174 153 tooth


Pistons - JE Flat Top -5c 4.040"
Crankshaft - Eagle 4340 Forged 3.75"
Connecting Rods - Eagle 6" H-Beam
Head Gasket - Cometic Gaskets C5645-040 4.040" Bore .040" Thick
Rod Bearings - CB663HN Clevite 77 - Didn't realize when you order one you only get one bearing, lol.


Rod Bolts - "Eagle" ARP 8740
Head Bolts - ARP 134-3603
Main Bolts - ARP 134-5001
Main Bearings - Clevite MS909H
Valve Covers - Proform 141-131 - Center Bolt


Timing Pointer - 51265 - JEGS Adjustable Billet Timing Pointer -http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/51265/10002/-1?parentProductId=751034
Probably can't run this in a real car with all the belts, but it worked great on the dyno. Make sure to loctite the adjustment screws, they like to vibrate off. The length of bolt was 5" to get into the timing cover.




Headers - 70-2239 - Pace Setter Painted Headers - Burned that paint off in 5 minutes.
Header Bolts - 400-1209 - ARP - These things are the ****, 3/8" head that you can get at no mater how screwy the headers are.


Flexplate Bolts - Arp 100-2901 - These bolts have such large heads that I was not able to get a socket on to tighten them because of the material around the pilot bearing area on the crankshaft. Had to use some small head flexplate bolts.

I had absolute hell with starters for this engine, because of the how the dyno mounts most starters just don't work without grinding on them.

Intake, Exhaust, Water pump, Oil pan, Timing Cover Gaskets were all Fel-Pro


This was the original engine block for this car, but a wrist pin snapped on the stock motor.

 

Puts it in the 375 range with a 14% drivetrain loss WITH a carb

Pretty impressive actually even with it peaking so low

 

Those are some stout numbers for a small cam and unmolested heads.

 

IMO 14% is a bit of a pipe dream.

The largest database of engine dyno to rear wheel dyno numbers we have is Golen's stuff and their 440hp motors as a rule put down a blistering 325-335rwhp. Much of that difference is likely due to his Land-air-sea dyno which is pretty well recognized to put out marketing numbers rather than honest ones.

I will guess more like 360rwhp with a large amount left on the table when you go back and do heads later.

Seems like the stroker shortblock was a repair not criticizing the stock heads, looks like it was just what you needed to do to get her put back together.

Would be great to see chassis dyno numbers later.

 

ARP 400-1209 is a 5/16 head.

 

Well the reason I didn't do the heads is that this is a backup motor for the 396 which is in a car now, on the same dyno that motor made 546TQ@4600 and 585HP@6000. The other motor has some ported Dart Pro 1s, I could have ported this motor but I didn't feel like dropping money on the right heads. I had the stock ones sitting around so I ran them to make a complete engine. Down the road I'm sure I'll put something different on them if I do run it in a car.

http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=MOV04906.mp4
video of me blowing the dyno muffler off the passenger side with the 396.

 

Opps yea I got that wrong, them ***** is TINY.

 

Those are very nice numbers and it gives me something to shoot for when I build my carbed 383 for my S10 blazer. By the way what compression are you running and whose the cam made by?

 

Those are sweet #'s! God I love carbed engines. So much less bullshit to deal with.

 

The piston is even with the deck, the bore is 4.040" The gasket is 4.040", the pistons have a 5cc relief. The heads are stock at 54cc. The compression calculators I have used look like 12.69:1. Ran just fine on premium. With better heads, you should be able to blow my numbers away.

I got the cam from this guy. http://www.jonescams.com/ I talk to him on speedtalk.com

Yea man, I have so many spare opti parts laying around, it was enjoyable to plug that opti hole on the timing cover.

 

I think some folks are failing to consider the difference between flywheel and chassis dyno HP numbers.

I think even the OP who put this together will say most decent heads/cam stock shortblock setups make more power than this.

 

410 RWHP through loose vig stall and 4.10s here with golens 520 motor, sounds about right to me.

thats a nice motor for the budget minded hot rodder.

 

Good numbers. When I see stock heads on motors like that, I always think those are the kinds of set ups certain cylinder head manufacturers use to come up with their "gains" that they use in advertisements. It's still a cool set up and I bet even if you put as is in to a older project car it would be a fun motor, get the heads done later and have some thing really fun.

 

On what kind of dyno with what correction? Does it actually perform?

The OP admitted what this was spare parts.

A nice motor for a hotrodder is spend the money on heads and cam rather than the shortblock.

 

why didn't you run it up any higher? by the print out the power was still climbing.

 

I know you are all about heads but I think you can agree with me that everything else on this engine is actually not that cheap. It is cometic gaskets so I can pull the heads off whenever I please and put new ones on. I just will have these heads laying around, which I hate. To be honest I might get them ported and run it again.


Yea, I probably could have run it higher. However it was my first time actually running the dyno and I was a little chickenshit. **** gets really loud at 6K, and it is a dual plane manifold, I doubt there was too much to be had after that.

 

I did not mean to criticize the build atall, I thought you were clear about the heads being spares not what you would have chosen for a full build as evident by your other engine. My comments were at those who think this is some spectacular result and a recipe that should be copied. You had a decent spare shortblock and spare stock heads and threw them together. I get that the others don't.
I think you would agree there is probably 80hp+ in porting those heads based on heads/cam cars with less duration topping 400 and even 420rwhp.

Again no criticism I just think a few of these guys are missing the point of what you did here.

I also think you are right that the dual plane was going to limit rpm and I have witnessed a 502 at 7000rpm on the engine dyno in person and the assault on the senses is something. I am sure it takes some working up to to really push on engines when in control. It in no way compares to sitting in a car a few feet from the engine. The concrete of the building acts as a giant low frequency speaker, the noise cuts through you. I know that wont make sense to those who haven't experienced it.

 

I ran a 360 CI SBC .060" over, flat top pistons, stock valvetrain, stock thinwall casting heads, and a mild RV cam on the same dyno. The RPM isn't nearly the same, but I guess I just run what I have.
Rev TQ Corr BHP Corr
3200 323.5 197.7
3300 361.9 229.3
3400 421.5 273.1
3500 431.7 290.7
3600 430.6 296.5
3700 427.9 302.4
3800 424.2 307.5
3900 418.5 311.3
4000 413 314.9
4100 407.5 319.8
4200 403.6 324.1
4300 401.3 333.8
4400 398.8 334.7
4500 384.4 330.3

I'll never make an all out SBC/LT1 so this is just me having fun. My near plans are to chase HP with a BBC which I'll dyno. I'm pretty sure this is the last LT1 that I'll have to build. I already have a carb'd LQ4 that may get dyno'd in the near future.

 

lol i understand. i had a 3216b marine engine let go on the dyno. man what a mess. hole was big enough you could damn near stick you head through.

 

This is my factory block from my car. I had a 385 built took it apart to fix a oil leak and found a scuff in one of the back 2 holes. My brother had just finished building a 396 out of a 95 vette block so he took my Dart heads and slapped them on his vette block. So now we have two built short blocks.

396
http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=DSC04941.jpg