Besides the cleaning of the coolant passages. What catch can do you guys prefer?

 

I've got a RX performance catch-can mounted right below my passenger side headlight. Imo it's only a little bit more than other smaller aluminum CC, but it does a better job.
IMO, get a RX Performance CC.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/rx-perf...s-p-13737.html

 

I used a shop-vac with a HD straw taped in place with duct tape. You can use a small hose if it won't collapse, or metal or plastic tubing. The clear flex tubing like used when you bleed/flush your brake lines would also work great.

 

Thanks man I appreciate the help. I'll get to home depot or what not and see what I can get to fit in the slots to vacuum it up.

That catch can you showed me was sick. What color do you have? I'll probably get a black one.

 

I got a Black one since I have it mounted below the headlight.
Mounted down there I can drain it from under the nose.

http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w...T92nw92005.jpg
http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w...T92nw92008.jpg

Here's the RX website:
http://www.revxtreme.com/performance.../rx-catch-cans

 

That looks sweet man. Is it as easy to hook up as it looks? Since yours is mounted in a remote location, do you have hoses showing? I would like to keep the visibility of hoses to a minimum.

 

Just route the two hoses(3/8" ID)behind the tensioner(leave a little bit of slack) then low in front of the battery through passenger side fender opening down to the CC.

 

Another question:

Can I use the stock LS1 steam tubes with my FAST 92 without any clearance issues? I keep finidng mixed answers. Some say they've had to slightly bend them, and some say they haven't. Mine look fine, but fragille enough to where if I go bending on them they may crack. I didn't want to upgrade to the ls6 steam tube piping, but is this my only option? Any thoughts, suggestions?

 

Do what you feel comfortable with. IMO, I wouldn't try using the ls1 steam tubes, since you risk cracking the intake or damaging the steam tube assembly when you flatten it.
The LS6 rear plugs and front tube would be the least expensive and easiest option. The other options are to use the ls6 front stream tube and the KRC #612-15202000 and KRC #612-15200000 with a 90*-4 AN to barb fitting 2-3ft of quality hose up to a double barbed T fitting installed in the front rubber steam hose going back to the radiator on the passenger side by the fill neck. That's how I did mine before I installed my FAST 92. You can get the KRC parts from Jegs.

 

Well I found the LS6 setup in my garage. I remembered I bought this setup before I decided to shave the fins off my old LS6 intake to run the LS1 steam pipes. I've heard of so called cooling issues with blocking off the back ports and just running the front cross-over, but they used this from GM and currently run this setup on the LS7's. So is there seriously any issues or just some BS. BLU your setup is the **** but kind of pricey man, I'll keep it in my thoughts. I like the uniqueness of it. Thanks for all the help by the way, I appreciate it.

 

You can use two front LS6 steam tubes, one in front and one in back then connect them in the front with a T.

There are mixed answers on the rear steam block off plugs.

It seems it's not a big deal blocking the rears off till you start making a lot of power or going forced induction.

The LS1 steam pipe won't work. There's not enough room between the bottom of the intake and the valley plate. That's why you have to replace the stock bolts with button head fasteners.

 

I mean what is a lot of power? I don't think I would be in that category. So would that make it safe? I didn't even know I had to upgrade to the lower profile valley cover bolts. Luckily I bought a new gasket set and it came with the lower profile ARP ( I think) bolts. So that's already in order. I just want it to look stock or a nice clean install. You have any pics of your setup?

 

Anything about 550RWHP IMO, I'm sure others will have a better idea about that than me.

For a H/C/I car I would think it would be fine blocking off the backs. The newer LS engines put out almost as much as a H/C/I LS1.

What gasket set did you buy? I'm asking because I've never seen a set that comes with bolts unless it something FAST sells.

As long as you use a button head style bolt you will be fine. If you use the stock bolts it will damage if not crack the lower part of the FAST intake.

I thought I had some pics of my steam pipe setup but can't find them at the moment. If I find them I will post them.

 

This is the kit I got. I really just needed the knock sensor grommets.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=380547982335

I'm in the process of coming up with something to run all four ports. I'll use the front LS6 crossover and maybe the fitting setup for the rear like 99Bluz28 mentioned.

 

The Comp Cams trunion upgrade is complete. A very tedious job, and 16 lifters was quite a PITA. The benefits are worth it, so I hear.

The cam bearing and Kent Moore tools should be here in the next couple of hours, so I plan on making a lot of head way this weekend.

 

Has the cam showed up yet? If so show that bad boy off!

 

The cam has arrived and has finally made its way into its new home.


Okay Gents,

I have a story of horror and just mishap after mishap. I would consider myself to have the ability and knowledge, as well as shop knowledge to make my way easily around this swap. (Some of you may beg the differ...lol)

My day began with the receiving of my Dad's UPS package including tools (To remove crank sprocket and to re-install it) and a new cam bearing. It starts with Dad sending the wrong cam bearing. (Great, right) Luckily I had ordered a set of clevite bearings prior to him saying he would send one, and I figured I would save these bearings for my other build (408 Iron). I took the clevite bearings out of the package and found the No.1 and No.5 bearings. Took out my vernier caliper and measured the two. I knew I was looking for the No.1 that measured 2.3260". (No.5 measuring 2.3280") Well my "dumbass" measures incorrectly and ends up installing the No.5 bearing into the No.1 spot. It went in fine honestly, and at this point I haven't realized what I've done and go along with my cam install. I try to install my well lubed up and shiny cam (thanks Martin) and the damn thing does not want to go. My wife is helping me and I keep telling her it's not supposed to go like this... to cut down on some of the story I grab my bearing driver kit and proceed to drive the bearing into the block (realizing I've installed the wrong bearing) as I did with the first one (First bearing I had no issues removing it this way), well the damn tool won’t come back out and I feel like if I forced it, I would burr the cam bore all to hell. So I disassembled the tool inside the block (See where I'm going with this...lol, some would say they would have done this or that, but if we were staring this devil down eye to eye, you would have done the same thing at this point.) Needless to say I ended up only getting 75% of the tool and finally the bearing. The other piece of the driver (The 59mm guide) was resting in the block. Well I was trying to get it lined up to pull it out of the hole in the block in the valley and clunck!!... the sound of the guide hitting the oil pan echoed the ******* neighborhood. My wife looked at me with a tear in her eye (thinking it was her fault, I don’t know why, that’s why she's a woman- they cry and ****) takes the hammer from me, because the vein in my forehead began to bulge...lol After I calmed down and gathered my thoughts I dropped the K-member (Yes, all that **** had to come off), dropped the pan and there that POS laid. Grabbed it, cleaned it off, installed the new bearing and was able to show my wife how a cam is supposed to go into an engine. All is well now; I will button everything back up Sunday and begin to degree the cam. Talk about a days’ worth of work and rework...lol

Some photos as requested and some more for entertainment

 

A few more photos

 

Sounds like tons of fun!

 

It's all good. Experience points haha Im just ready to play.. I have to remain patient though. I'll keep You guys updated like I said I would

Here's a question: the oil pan gasket.. Should I replace it with a new one or just rtv the corners. I have it off so whichever route is the best is the way I would perfer. The gasket seems to be riveted on and the rubber still seems to be in good shape. I think replacing it would be best, but I figured I'd see what you guys thought.