Is 270* Oil Temperature Too Hot???
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From: Mount Dora, Fla
Is 270* Oil Temperature Too Hot??? Just got my 408 running. At the same time I put in an oil temperature gauge and water temperature gauge. The water temp gauge reads right at 200* which is slightly less than the OEM gauge.However the oil temp reads, after some acceleration, like 270*, but with moderate driving 240*. I've got a '04 Vette which has a oil temp gauge and I think it only reads slightly more than the water temp. It's raining today so the Vette is garaged. Is 270* too high or am I being overly concerned??
Originally Posted by jmm98LS1
You sure that gauge is right? Where is the sender mounted? I've never seen my oil temps climb above 220F, and that's beating on it in 100*F+/high humidity conditions.
Originally Posted by Matt2105
You sure youre talking about an oil temp gauge or do you mean the gauge thats built into the dash because thats not oil temp.
being that it is a fresh motor, it might be normal for now. with and iron block, fresh bearings, nice tight tolerances, etc... i would say 230-250*F would be normal.
couple of questions:
what weight oil?
where is sensor located? IE, near headers, y-pipe, etc...
with the increases in heat being produced from a larger cubic inch iron motor, and assuming stock radiator, the oil is having to pull more of the heat off.
if i remember tomorrow morning, i'll take my infared temp gun and check mine when i get to work.
couple of questions:
what weight oil?
where is sensor located? IE, near headers, y-pipe, etc...
with the increases in heat being produced from a larger cubic inch iron motor, and assuming stock radiator, the oil is having to pull more of the heat off.
if i remember tomorrow morning, i'll take my infared temp gun and check mine when i get to work.
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Originally Posted by jmm98LS1
You sure that gauge is right? Where is the sender mounted? I've never seen my oil temps climb above 220F, and that's beating on it in 100*F+/high humidity conditions.
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From: Mount Dora, Fla
It's an Autometer gauge on the A pillar along with a temperature gauge. The odd thing is that the temp gauge is staying right at 200*. The sender is installed at the oil filter, near the headers but I don't think close enough to be effected by their heat. If it isn't raining tomorrow I'll take my Vette out and see what it's gauge reads. Also I may give Autometer tech support a call if I have the time.
dunno about regular driving, but f-bodies without oil coolers get 300* oil temps in road racing. synthetics don't break down like conventional either. if u are worried, u can put in an oil cooler. search on frrax for oil coolers
ur coolant temps sounds about right. 200* is about common with fan reprogramming.
ur coolant temps sounds about right. 200* is about common with fan reprogramming.
Originally Posted by DONAIMIAN
Not for synthetics.
I'm not suggesting that synthetics would be damaged in some way @ greater temperatures. I am saying that manufacturer suggested oil viscocities would be thinner than optimum @ 270*F.
There's no dispute that racing oils...etc., can handle the temperature & maintain their proper viscocity.
Originally Posted by LS1-450
I don't know what this blanket statement means. It is my understanding that engine clearances are @ their optimum @ 100*C or 212*F in most production vehicles. For this reason, manufacturer suggested engine oil viscocities are @ their optimum @ this same temperature or there abouts.
I'm not suggesting that synthetics would be damaged in some way @ greater temperatures. I am saying that manufacturer suggested oil viscocities would be thinner than optimum @ 270*F.
There's no dispute that racing oils...etc., can handle the temperature & maintain their proper viscocity.
I'm not suggesting that synthetics would be damaged in some way @ greater temperatures. I am saying that manufacturer suggested oil viscocities would be thinner than optimum @ 270*F.
There's no dispute that racing oils...etc., can handle the temperature & maintain their proper viscocity.
I didnt run an oil cooler, and I knew in the texas heat my oil was in the high 200's, so I ran 15w-50 M1 performance driving formula. Latley I havent been able to find it tho.
i hardly drive more than 15miles a trip but mine stays right around 190-200. and it actually takes most of the trip to get it there. i use 0-40 mobil 1 and my sensor is installed in the plug right above the filter. i have a stewart warner gauge though.
Originally Posted by DONAIMIAN
If you cant get your temp any higher than that after beating on the car, then you need to get your gauge checked.
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From: Mount Dora, Fla
I talked to Autometer this morning, a guy named Corey, who used to be an installer, says oil temp should be the same or less than coolant temp, unless you are like in a road race situation. I jacked up the car and my Jet Hots are within 1 1/2" from the sender which I think could mess up the sender, but Autometer says it won't. If this wasn't a new engine I wouldn't have posted but this really seems strange.
The next step is to check the ohms on the sender to see if it's working OK, which I think it is. The funny thing is from a cold start the coolant temp immediately goes to 200*, obviously because of the thermostat, but it takes like 6-8 miles for the oil temp to get to 240+*.
I went over to Lowes this morning and got a piece of aluminum sheet and will make a heat shield. If that doesn't work to keep the temps down, then maybe there is another problem.
Thanks again for the input.
The next step is to check the ohms on the sender to see if it's working OK, which I think it is. The funny thing is from a cold start the coolant temp immediately goes to 200*, obviously because of the thermostat, but it takes like 6-8 miles for the oil temp to get to 240+*.
I went over to Lowes this morning and got a piece of aluminum sheet and will make a heat shield. If that doesn't work to keep the temps down, then maybe there is another problem.
Thanks again for the input.
Originally Posted by slow trap
i thought oil temp was usually around 20-30 * warmer than coolant temp ?
& jimmy98LS1, my oil temp never goes over 220-225*F hot lapping on a road course; similar to what you've seen. Your cooling system is set up just about as good as it can be.
The proper t-stat, radiator size, fan settings, & water pump flow go a long way toward good engine heat control.
Originally Posted by bigdsz
I talked to Autometer this morning, a guy named Corey, who used to be an installer, says oil temp should be the same or less than coolant temp, unless you are like in a road race situation. I jacked up the car and my Jet Hots are within 1 1/2" from the sender which I think could mess up the sender, but Autometer says it won't. If this wasn't a new engine I wouldn't have posted but this really seems strange.
The next step is to check the ohms on the sender to see if it's working OK, which I think it is. The funny thing is from a cold start the coolant temp immediately goes to 200*, obviously because of the thermostat, but it takes like 6-8 miles for the oil temp to get to 240+*.
I went over to Lowes this morning and got a piece of aluminum sheet and will make a heat shield. If that doesn't work to keep the temps down, then maybe there is another problem.
Thanks again for the input.
The next step is to check the ohms on the sender to see if it's working OK, which I think it is. The funny thing is from a cold start the coolant temp immediately goes to 200*, obviously because of the thermostat, but it takes like 6-8 miles for the oil temp to get to 240+*.
I went over to Lowes this morning and got a piece of aluminum sheet and will make a heat shield. If that doesn't work to keep the temps down, then maybe there is another problem.
Thanks again for the input.
coolant temp = 190-200*
block temp just above oil pan = 200-210*
oil pan = 190-200*
ceramic coated header tube closest to oil pan = 270-300*
oil filter = 230-240*
so, to me it looks like the sender, which is just above the oil filter, is getting some extra heat from the headers.